kmmcrafts

I agree it's not going to really add much if any value but it can make for a easier sale.. When ever I was looking at used Hegners before I got this one I personally didn't have much interest in the ones that looked rough, especially when asking price is at the higher end. I wouldn't even have looked at the one I got if they hadn't had it priced at $50 and almost passed on it but the guy gave it to me so who could refuse that.. LOL There are many of these like this because they must have some sort of paint peeling issue.. Rarely see a Hawk or most any other saw brand like these Hegners.. heck even the cheap entre level saws have better paint. So anyway, I figured I got it running good and cleaned up other than the stand looks bad and figured it's worth $10 can of paint to clean it up even more.. I'm sure there are more people that feel the same as me when searching to buy a saw.. who wants to buy a saw that looks like it had fell off a truck going down the highway, LOL.. especially when asking top prices.. so I guess I do feel it would add some value.

Any of you Hegner owners repaint your crappy looking stand? Saw looks pretty good but as most of these you see on Marketplace the stand always looks as though it had fallen off a mountain or dragged behind a car for 30 miles, LOL I'm wanting to clean up my saw as it looks terrible and might add some value or make it easier to sell when that time comes.. I do need to sell a couple of my saws but which ones I'm unsure at the moment.. and may list all of them and the first couple that sells might be the decision maker for me, LOL Anyway, anyone know of a spray paint that is a very close match? I didn't see any touch-up paint on their website but maybe I missed it. I know there is a guy on FB that rebuilds these but I can't seem to send him a message.. maybe either he doesn't accept messages or something in my FB setting not allowing me to send a message.. Either way, if anyone knows of a paint brand and name / number that is a close match.. Maybe rather than trying to match old paint I'll just paint the stand black or something.. but would like it to look like they did from the manufacture..

If I like the plywood offered by KJP I'm not certain it'll be a good source until I find this same stuff in the USA.. or I order well in advance.. My order has been in the USA now for over 10 days sitting in a customs sorting facility.. No movement at all.. just scanned everyday showing it is still there.. Then I wonder if I'll be required to pay additional tax before they'll deliver it. It's terrible to have things shipped in from Canada who is supposed to be our friends yet I can order supplies from China and most anywhere in the world and get them within a few days which has never made sense to me. Anyway, placed my order on the 2nd and it was shipped out same day and arrived to a UPS facility in NY on the 5th.. and still there today the 17th..

If you don't mind sharing your YouTube channel drop a link to it.. I'm always interested in construction type channels. Maybe I'll learn something from your channel.

Makes me wonder if your circuit board issue is somehow related to the ground issue you had back in May where the plug wasn't grounded and your saw table was charged and shocking you.. Normally there's not a lot of board issues with these saws but I have seen a few, but we never know the situation to those few either.. could be another grounding issue or improper cords etc..

I'm not a fan of stains but I might be biased because I can never get plywood to take a "good stain job" and I also look at stained pieces and to me they look fake just like they are. Don't get me wrong as I have seen some beautiful work that was stained and or painted.. Dave Monk does wonderful work as does FrankEV and probably many others but I see a lot of stuff that just makes me cringe at because the project would look so much better had they not went the stained route.. I also understand that some projects do better being made from a more stable wood so as the others said.. might depend on the project at hand. I vote for solid lumber if it's doable. Also gluing layers with stained plywood or painted the glue doesn't like to hold together as well on those surfaces unless you use some sort of epoxy or something.. maybe strength isn't a issue here?

Yeah, I recovered most stuff but it was recovered from about 5 weeks ago so the more recent researching I did and bookmarks I had saved were gone unfortunately.

I forgot about Rockler.. how could I do that, I've ordered a lot of stuff from them in the past.. another I forgot about is woodcraft store.. there's a woodcraft not too far from me too... hmm, I guess I better do some checking on these.

Yes they will, I asked about it a few years ago.. at that time it wasn't cheap and I still don't know the quality of the ply.. Hate to do a bulk order on something I don't like or don't know if I'll like it.. Laser work is quite popular in our state and many of them mention LL Johnson so maybe they offer it now.. BTW the wood expo is tomorrow and Saturday and they have awesome deals on lumber so it's a great time to go buy your lumber and plywood needs.. or new tool deals.. they do demonstrations and a lot of big stuff going on.. I haven't been there in 2 years because of some health things I had going on.. I've sent my wife to go pick up some BBply for me so I can try to keep working. I'm feeling pretty darn good now.. might be able to go get me some deals on plywood.. could use some Cherry lumber but otherwise I'm stocked to the hilt on most anything else that I normally use. If you go I wouldn't get any walnut as I'll hook you up with that hopefully in a couple weeks.. Daughters wedding is another week away and after that I might actually have time ( maybe not energy after all this wedding prep ) to start digging the stuff out of the rafters.

I had a whole list of different places to check out plywood from and one had just opened a brand new location right here in Michigan not too far away.. almost seems like it was KJP Hardwoods.. My computer crashed and I lost my bookmarked sites that I had done research on and was going to check out. Yeah KJP Hardwoods has some more options and I also placed an order from them last night of the sample pack of craft plywood. They also offer larger sheets and free shipping on orders over $185? or something around that price.. IF I order I always liked ordering bulk so the shipping might be expensive for them.. they'll need a semi truck, LOL.. Anyway.. will see how their sample pack is.. says it's usually good on both sides but back side could have small blemishes.. at least it's the same species on the back.. Pretty easy to find good plywood on both sides for 1/4" thick material but 1/8" seems to be hard to find.

I've always been on the lookout for plywood suppliers that sell thin (1/8" ) plywood in other species than just Birch, that is good on both sides.. Always been impressed with the quality of the project panels from Home Depot, however they're only 1 side good... which is okay for many projects but I sometimes have a need for good 2 sides.. I'm not sure where one would find good 2 sides even if the back was not a A or 1.. probably a B or 2 back side would be fine.. but like the Walnut from H.D. has some light colored wood for the back.. maybe looks like birch.. I run across a site that claims to be good both sides and guaranteed to be flat so I ordered some a few days ago and just received my order which is nice because estimated not to be here until Thursday.. so I'm impressed with the fast shipping. The plywood is prefinished which is another thing that I like.. open the box and it looks like decent plywood for sure however the Walnut appears to be maybe stained maple or some other stained wood.. looks great anyway but me being a woodworker I know the difference so to me is a turn off.. To be fair they did not claim it to be walnut and it is mentioned it's "colored"...so I knew this before purchasing.. tell tail is the good 2 sides prefinished is cheaper than the H.D. single side stuff, LOL.. Well worth the money.. I've seen it being highly recommended among the laser forums so I was going to buy a couple sheets of each species to see how it was. Guaranteed to be flat.. the name is called TruFlat.. certainly was not 100% flat when I open the box.. looks like the box was setting on a smaller box as the bottom few sheets were bowed in the middle.. Flat plywood is a big concern for a laser machines as the curve will make the laser beam out of focus if it's closer or farther from the laser head. While this is bowed it's not a deal breaker for me because I'm able to use it with clamps etc.. just the idea of them claiming it is guaranteed to be flat and stay flat.. maybe it'll flatten out after setting in the shop for a while.. as it was just delivered about 40 minutes ago, LOL Anyway, thought I'd share my experience with the plywood as it may be of some interest here in the scrolling community. Back when I was scrolling a lot or portrait style cuttings etc.. I always wanted some other species of thin plywood to work with as for some project the BBply is / was just too bland sometimes. I think the TruFlat plywood is sold by a few different companies but I ordered from MakerFlow and was shipped from Arizona.. I ordered on Friday and got it today ( Tuesday ) and that was over the Labor day weekend so very timely shipped. Ideally I'd like to find 1/8" stuff like this locally where I could pick up a full or half sheet.. my laser can run a 24 x 30 piece of plywood and some of the projects require larger than the 12 x 19 that is so common. Shipping cost for those larger pieces kills any great deal on the wood.. so local is probably my only option for the larger sheets. MakerFlow

I've always bought my parts from Seyco because they seem to have most of them on their website and usually they have them right in stock and ready to ship out. Other sources have always had to order the part in or ship direct to you which I don't like.. https://seyco.com/product/ex21-a06-power-switch/ Good luck..

Who says the puzzle has to be square and smooth edges? Back in the beginning of my scrolling days I cut everything on the scroll saw.. if you can't cut a nice straight edge then make them scalloped edges.. I mean yeah I get it for the dollar bill puzzle and certain other times but just a photo you can make the edges anyway you want / need. Once the plywood has absorbed moisture putting it in a oven to evaporate the moisture will not fix the lifted swollen wood fibers.. I think sanding is about the only best option from that point and as I said.. no need for a expensive power sander.. Something like a few different grits of these is what I did for a lot of years.. https://www.harborfreight.com/aluminum-oxide-sanding-sponges-coarse-grade-10-pack-63918.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=22877870283&campaignid=22877870283&utm_content=186422612369&adsetid=186422612369&product=63918&store=&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22877870283&gbraid=0AAAAADAHb4eUxG6KRQwIaxIXVdKxfFz-G&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_L_FBhDmARIsAItqgt5Z185CJDt0hvSVBDDDx_Vf8aZG2GtSbb7PKC2Xtp3F8TNda8JxpvYaAgCYEALw_wcB

I'm not certain about the sanding before gluing the puzzle.. when I did a few puzzles about 15 years ago I did sand the plywood first so there was a good smooth surface to glue to and to make the surface of the puzzle nice and smooth too. I suggest to sand first but is it really needed? I don't know... some might depend on the quality of the Baltic Birch.. I've bought it and had real smooth surface and I've also gotten it where it had some rougher sort of raised grain.. which may mean it was a older piece that had sat out and absorbed some of the humidity out of the air.. I say that because I started purchasing it in larger bulk quantity several years ago for cheaper prices and the older stuff does start getting a rougher surface over time.. so you may want to have a random orbital sander or some type of sander to smooth them out when / if needed.. Though you could just buy sandpaper and use hand sanding too as it doesn't usually take a lot of sanding to get it smoothed out good. There are different methods I've seen over the years of being on these message boards for attaching the picture.. I used regular wood glue and spread very thin even layer with a business card the lay the photo down and them used a roller to press it down good. I then always top coated with triple thick clear glaze https://www.walmart.com/ip/Krylon-I00500A07-Krylon-Triple-Thick-Crystal-Clear-Glaze-Clear-High-Gloss-12-oz-Spray-Paint-Multi-Surface-1-Piece-1-Pack/22301320 Then I'd cut the next day with the Flying Dutchman Puzzle blades.. never needed sanding as JT said. I also seen where people will use the 3M 77 spray adhesive and spray the back of the photo and the plywood and they say it works well.. I've never done that method myself. It'll take a lot of blades per puzzle as the glues in the plywood really dull blades quickly so when getting blades be sure to get more than you think you'll need, LOL. Pure Bond Project Panels from Home Depot seem to be a bit easier cutting and not quite as harsh on blades.. is another thing I've read.. I've used them some but not really for puzzles so might be something you could look into though a bit more pricey depending on where you get your Baltic Birch as I said I buy full sheets in quantity so it's quite a lot cheaper than mail ordering like a lot of people do.

Welcome to the Village!! I'm not much of a puzzle maker but the few I did make I did all my sanding before cutting. After cutting if you have some fuzzies on the back you can take a small propane torch and carefully burn them off holding the torch way back and slowly moving closer while also continuing to move it around so not to keep the heat in one spot too long.. takes a bit of practice bu you'll get it if you take it slow and hold it far away while gradually moving closer. I suppose you could use the sander method too, but I'd be worried to mess up the face side of the puzzle cause from vibration etc. from the sander. Maybe someone else will chime in on this topic that is more experienced with puzzles since I've only made a handful of them over the years.

Parts likely cost more than just replacing the saw with another one as cheap as they're selling it.

I've never contacted the manufacture myself but through messages on here and helping others get their saws fixed they were able to get parts they needed through a phone number in their manual.. Sounded like the company was very helpful to get them the parts they needed etc.. but that may be based on "who" you get on the phone because I also have read that they were basically useless, so take that with a grain of salt, LOL That's good to know they put the thread locker on the new parts.. When mine started acting up I wasn't going to pay for new parts when the old block / rod was fine. I just chased the threads to clean them up on the block and rod then put the thread locker on and reassembled it.. haven't had any issues since and that was several years ago now. They need to get those types of shop classes back into schools. I was able to only need a couple "required classes" in high school so through my high school years I had to have shop classes to fill out my school day. We had machine shop, welding, wood shop, architectural drawing, auto shop, fiberglass and plastics. I'm probably forgetting some but I had to take them all plus a sewing and cooking class just to fill my day out, LOL. Some of these classes I never do that stuff now but the skillset is used a lot just knowing how things are made or a understanding of how things work.. Now days the machine shop would be CNC and there is a lot of lost knowledge because the CNC calculates a lot of stuff for you.. still a skill to run them but not the same skills.. same for the drawing class.. it's all done on computer now. Though the kids need to "want to" take those type of classes too.. because if they have no interest they won't learn it as well either.. for instance I also had typing class but I hated that class and to this day I just hunt and peck the keyboard.. kind of a skill I wish I had taken more seriously as it would have been helpful now days, Nice shop set-up you have.. I'd love to have some machines like that.. I'd probably need retrained as I haven't touched a old metal lathe since high school and coming up on 40 years since I graduated..

So that split is supposed to be there if I'm looking at what area I'm thinking I'm looking at, which is just under the upper arm at the back of the saw table between the upper and lower arm at the back ( base ) of the saw. I see where it looks like it was bent in too far near the bottom of your photo.. I think you're on the right track as to bending it back out etc.. As for the tension rod, you are basically correct that it's just a threaded rod. IF I had to guess the square block down inside the saw where that threaded rod goes into is going to need replaced too and I might suggest you add a little blue loc-tite on it since these are pretty common to have the threads get loose tolerances and they'll start adjusting the saws upper arm each time you raise and lower that arm it'll move a little... unless you put a little thread locker on it while you have it apart might save you a headache down the road in a year or so. IF you end up replacing any of the saws frame portion of the saw I also suggest getting the parts from the Chinese manufacturer rather than Seyco because the tubing and frame have different size specs.. Most all the guts of the saws are the same thing but the main frame tubing etc. is different.. Anyway, I think you're on the right track to getting the saw repaired.. Hopefully you'll be able to save it, they are nice saws once they are tuned and running good. Yeah the China made one may give some folks a hard time but you seem really mechanical inclined and not afraid to tackle a repair..

Ray beat me to it.. I would check that arm tension adjustment.. this may not be damaged at all because my saw was the same way when I got it and I had to adjust the set screw deal like Ray said. On that back side ( inside the saw) of that set screw is a spring loaded ball bearing that keeps tension on the side of the arm to basically hold the arm up in the air while you change a blade etc. As for the tension rod, I'm not sure where you're saying there is a stress crack. If you can post a photo that would be helpful to understand what part is cracked.

I hadn't thought about making a box the size I need the tabs to be and then cutting and erase the old.. It would be a slow way of doing it but it could work. The lightburn program is what I run my lasers with which is also a drawing software. Love it and it's much easier to work with than inkscape.. Same goes for my Vcarve program for the CNC router.. It's just trying to learn 2-3 different programs all at or near the same time.. and figuring out what dose what. LOL For your info or anyone else following this... there is a free website program to create boxes with or without tabs etc.. you put in the sizes and material size etc.. then it'll create a box for you to download. Check out the link below.. https://www.makercase.com/

Being I've been working with lasers instead of the scroll saw this year I've been following more laser message boards. I run across this topic the other day on one of those message boards about this double sided tape for projects that have a backer... I've not bought any and have no experience with this stuff but thought it was interesting and it may work well for those scroll saw projects too. On the laser site they say they attach the tape to the back side of the front piece and cut it out then they just sort of peel and stick to the backer board. I don't know how forgiving this stuff is as far as if you don't get it lined up correctly if you can remove it and reapply or what so if you try it or have used it before then let us know. I know most of the use for this in the laser community is for small ornaments and such and I also know many of those folks make a jig to do their gluing so they get it lined up every time so maybe it's pretty sticky and that is why they use a jig? Also they mention they like the 6" wide as the 12" gets a little tricky to apply evenly.. also some mentioned they just place 1" strips rather than covering the whole thing.. Just thought I'd share this info as I haven't seen any mention of it in the scroll sawing community.. If you have used it or give it a try let us know how it goes.. Might be a issue with scrolling as spinning the project on the saw table may wear off the peel and end up sticking to the saw table? That would be my only concern for this use. https://www.amazon.com/467MP-Clear-Adhesive-Transfer-length/dp/B007Y7CV86/ref=pd_ci_mcx_mh_mcx_views_0_title?pd_rd_w=9QnFb&content-id=amzn1.sym.aa60a3ed-f4d0-4018-a489-7522a864e399%3Aamzn1.symc.40e6a10e-cbc4-4fa5-81e3-4435ff64d03b&pf_rd_p=aa60a3ed-f4d0-4018-a489-7522a864e399&pf_rd_r=KTQ71KTDKPRPPED8QJWV&pd_rd_wg=GIQYy&pd_rd_r=fdddbf01-640e-49c5-9adf-f9b8798463be&pd_rd_i=B007Y7CV86&th=1

As you say... the dust might be the least of your worries with using these due to mold and bacteria. I got pretty sick once with something respiratory.. doctors had no clue but put me on antibiotics and cleared it up.. next week working in the shop I got it again.. I think there was something in my filters of my dust mask.. Ever since then I started changing my filters more often than not.. they're cheaper than a doctors visit and not being sick is always a big plus... I'm not sure I'd even bother trying to "clean" to prolong the life of something like this.. as I said.. filters are cheaper than the office visit so I would just change the filters or replace the mask.. your health is worth it.. Probably safer to not even wear a mask if you're not going to change out the filters and breath clean air what's the point.

I didn't know they made that many different ones. I've always liked the titebond glues and was really happy to find the translucent one which is my most used one for gluing clocks to the bases and backers on ornaments etc.. as it dries clear. I use the titebond 3 for cutting boards or other glueups etc.. Now that I'm using a laser the folks on the laser groups say to use a double sided tape.. I forgot the 3M number but it's basically a very wide double sided tape and then they laser cut the face side of the ornaments.. peel and stick it to the backer part of the ornament.. no messy glue or worries of squeeze out etc.. I might look into that.. might could work for scrolling so I'll make a different topic about this with the number of the tape they use.

Thanks Bill, My wife uses this all the time.. She is always steeling my packing tape and my side cutters so now her tacky glue is going to end up out in the shop.. Lets see how she handles the disappearing glue.. Karma about to go down,

Okay after reviewing the comments and after making a couple more of these I have figured out a method that works well to assemble it using the TiteBond glue that I've always used. I do wish it set up quicker so I think I might try the Quick and Thick glue mentioned above.. IF I were scroll sawing these it'd be easy to make without having the joints but until I get better with the software to redesign this for the laser I'll be making it as is.. this isn't like changing up plans on the fly with a scroll saw.. laser is going to do what the design is on the computer. I have figured out how to adjust the joints on some of these projects to make them a tighter/ looser fit but this particular design I can't seem to figure that out with this one. LOL.. some of the designs the designer made it for the type / size plywood they have / use.. and some of it is oddball sizes from other parts of the world so learning to adjust this stuff as I go.. or at least trying too.. LOL