kmmcrafts

That is typically what I start my search for since that is the file format that my laser and CNC require. IF I can't find something there then I go back to clipart, stencil, coloring page etc.. I tend to find more "free stuff" by searching stencil or coloring page.. I think a lot of those free clipart sites are gone and probably because of the craze of everyone now using 3D printers, cnc's, cricut's and lasers.. Thanks for the suggestion though

I usually get the same thing from Pinterest.. though I haven't tried it recently.. but the clipart there is usually linked to a etsy shop or somewhere that wants money for it. Many people just use the photos from pinterest but that is really steeling when you actually trace the source of the original image so I don't really like doing that if I happen to make something that I end up putting online for sale I like to actually have a legal trail that I have the right to use that image.. anybody can copy and paste most any image online but it's not always the right thing to do.. There used to be some real genuine free clipart.. but now days people have even gone to those sites and then sell them, LOL

Yes Jim, I've ran into that as well. I don't mind paying for clipart for the most part but there are instances where I find a piece of clipart I like and it says free.. then you click trough several pages and while the clipart itself might be free there is a monthly fee for the website in order to download it. And yes the monthly fee isn't a bad price if I were to be using and downloading a bunch of clipart every month.. I look for certain clipart maybe 2-3 times a year, lol

I've been looking for winter themed clipart that is royalty free and without having to jump through hoops of all sorts.. I get that it cost money to make clipart and maintain a site for it etc.. but there used to be tons of sites you could download free clipart.. in my search today I click on free sites only to get to a page that you have to subscribe in order to download the clipart.. doesn't seem very free to me and very deceiving to send you on a click bate goose hunt only to get to the last page where it says you have to subscribe to the site. Are there sites out there that have decent really free clipart or am I dreaming that there used to be some sites like this? Google used to be a friend that found you things you actually searched for.. now it is dominated by click bate false free searches and it's very frustrating to say the least. It seems all search engines on most all the internet is this way now days.. go to etsy and search for a specific ornament and you get all sorts of clipart when you're actually looking for a ornament.. No wonder everyone's sales have dropped off.. they've messed up the search engines everywhere. Okay rant over I guess, LOL.. Now, where are the clipart sites that actually have free clipart if anyone knows of anything?

I'd like to see your woodstove fan set-up.. One of the reasons I haven't hooked up some sort of vac is the noise.. I have a big furnace blower that I run in the summer for a fan.. called a squirrel cage blower is what I've known them as.. but that thing is quiet.. a smaller version piped up as a suction vac would be a awesome type of dust collector.. I like how the Hegner blower is built into the arm as it's out of the way compared to those flex hoses that you constantly have to adjust but a big reason I don't use my Hegner is because it blows it "at you" LOL.. so on one hand it's a nice idea but whoever designed that has never set at a saw and used it for any length of time, LOL ..

The part is a CV axle boot.. I don't know what size you would need or for what model car.. most of them are around the same size. I thought I read somewhere that one for a ATV quad or? was a perfect fit.. either way they're made of rubber and will out last the one that Hegner sells and as a bonus it's cheaper, LOL

I always wondered what they make the bellows out of that makes them go bad so often.. What do I mean by that? Well dang near every Hegner needs a new bellows... Yet I have yet seen any Hawks that need a new bellows nor have I heard or seen anyone mention needing it replaced.. I see Hawk offers a replacement so they probably do go bad.. I might have to compare the sizes of these from my Hawk to the Hegner.. Maybe worth buying one for a Hawk and putting it on the Hegner since they're about half as much for the Hawk and don't seem to go bad either..

That looks like a really clean well taken care of saw. I'd say it's priced in the ballpark value.. maybe slightly on the high side but it is the bigger saw and very clean looking so yeah.. If it has some extra blade clamps or any extras that'd be a plus. In my area I see most of the smaller saws going for $400 - 600 for this in my opinion for my area would be priced about right. Are there better bargain saws out there? yeah but usually far and few between when it comes to these higher end saws.. and when they pop up they're gone quick. It does say the bellows needs replaced, but it seems most of them I see needs new one.

Yeah that front tension doesn't make the saw any less quality.. my point was that most times the ones with the front tension are priced at or around that price.. and seems to be plenty around here so I would by the one with the tension up front rather than one without provided they're in the same ballpark price.. I mean why spend the same money and have to put the newer arm kit on to move the tension to the front as I believe the kit to move it to the front is over $200 the last I checked.. So for me since I would rather have that up front I'm not paying $700 and then ad another $200 when there are other used saws out there in my area that already have it up front and usually in this price range or less.. I get what you're saying though from a standpoint of buying a new saw verse the used one at less than half the price.. Yes the stand and other additional things can change the value too.. mine came with a stand but it looks rough compared to the saw.. saw looks new but the stand hardly has any paint on it and rusty.. something I want to clean up and paint but haven't got around to it yet. Prefer to use my Hawk anyway..

It's hard to say for sure if it's a decent price or not without knowing more details. With the date range being before they had the up front tension lever and quick clamp etc.. I'd say it's not worth it unless it was the bigger industrial model.. can't remember what the model name was now but they were a bigger saw with even a heavier motor than the others.. I don't think they make that saw anymore but it was around $2000 way back when I got into the hobby.. so if it is one of these.. OR it had been upgraded to the upfront tension release and other goodies it could be worth that. The upgrades for the old saws to make them with the more modern goodies cost quite a lot.. like a few hundred dollars so IF those upgrades had been done.. he's probably not too far off from the value.. But not worth it to "me" anyway if those upgrades haven't been done because you can go out and get a newer model that had the updated options from the factory for around that price as well so that would be a no for me.. so again.. really depends on what he has and the condition. I got my 2002 multimax 18 free but it was missing blade chucks and I couldn't even try it.. plus the guy had to clean out the estate in a short time and sell the home because he lived out of state and took time off to get stuff cleaned out.. he was going to toss it in the dumpster if I didn't take it. He had already had some table saws and stuff loaded in the dumpster, LOL.. sad but I understand were he was coming from too.. he didn't want it and needed to clean house and had no time to mess with it.

I didn't know the prices of these but I do agree... way better deal to buy the larger easier to use saw... I'm not sure what the price is on the HF model but I'm thinking it was in that price range and they have always been good at honoring their warranty and returns were always very easy.. at least in my local store.. so I'd think the HF saw would be the better deal .. Best bang for your buck saw from a reselling point of view is the DeWalt.. those things seem to bring 80-90% of the price they were when new.. many times you could sell them for only 50 - 100 less than the new one.. I remember paying $350 for mine with stand and light.. sold the light a couple years later as I never put it on the saw and someone local was wanting one, so I sold it for $25.. ran the saw for 8 years and sold it for $300, LOL.. You can't even get close to the new price with a Hawk or Hegner, or most any other saw for that matter.. but those DW's sure bring a good resell value that you just can't beat. That was the deciding factor I had when I pulled the trigger on mine.. I wanted the Delta P20 that big cast iron monster of a saw but honestly glad I never went that route.. great saw but shortly after I made my choice Delta stopped making then and not long after that parts were obsolete.. With all these cheap saws on the market I still say the DeWalt is really the best entree level saw to buy because of the name, resale, and quality is not bad for the money.. yeah bit more than these saws but you always can get most of your money back if you don't like the hobby..

I didn't really watch the video but I have seen the saw online somewhere so not in person. I will give credit to some of these entrée level saws as the design is similar to most of the others on the market and most " if tuned properly " are fairly smooth running saws.. not like the old day entrée level saws where they'd vibrate the whole bench across the shop floor.. and used to have to have a hex wrench to change blades.. so while the user experience is probably better than back in the day saws.. So hopefully a new person to the hobby doesn't have that bad experience that chases them away from the hobby. I do for the most part agree with everything JT said though... but on the other hand I get that a newbie doesn't want to go spend several hundred more on what most of us would consider a good starter saw.. I've been there myself.. and for the most part I did give up for several years after my first sawing experience but then tried another saw that was only marginally better, .. But sometimes we have to go through the school of hard knocks to figure it all out.. I'd say most that have started with a cheap old saw from back in the day probably did the same.. Thankfully many of us recognized the tool quality from the get go and found something better so we could improve and enjoy the hobby.

One thing about doing long cuts that used to help me was making sure I have a brand new blade at the start of these longer cuts. For me going straight was more about me wanting to "go faster" because of the longer straight cuts.. even circle cuts like ornaments is tough to do if there is not big details to do you kinda get bored and impatient and end up pushing the wood too much which will cause the blade to flex and wander. Most times I start a longer cut with a new blade even if the one you had been using wasn't that old or dull yet.. I also used to speed up the saw.. Now if you're having the opposite trouble where you feel it's going too fast for your comfort maybe a dull blade and slower speed is what will work for you. Some types of wood is real difficult because the blade will follow the path of least resistance so if there is a softer spot the blade will try to take that path into that soft area.

Excelisor was also considered a good Excalibur replacement when General International shut down... and they came up with the same saw with several different brand names.. I suppose it's possible that these are still great well made saws but I find that hard to believe with the low price point they went backwards to. Pegas came out the gate strong and took over the market.. Maybe these other brands were forced to lower the prices? Don't know but you can't find a new Excalibur named saw now.. The King and others have changed up the design from a 21" saw to a new 22" saw and lowered the prices considerably.. Also making a squeeze on these brands is the cheaper Rikon and Harbor Freight models.. These all look like the same saw now days and I suspect they are, with just different colors and names.

I noticed the 16" price too.. I'll also note that the 16 looks to be made just like the Excalibur with the dust port holes in the table and the power switch and speed control is like the Pegas and others but not on the 22" saw it's altogether different. .. The 22" appears to have a larger table kinda like the Harbor Freight saw.. and I don't see any dust port. I would bet the 16" is the older version as that was always the price of the smaller saw.. Like I said.. prices don't just go backwards like that.. they have changed manufactures is my guess.. Also looking at the zoomed in photo I see it has the arm lock button at the back of the saw much like the Harbor Freight saw.. Looks like the same saw as the HF saw other than color.. Look close at the Rikon too.. It's not the old King saw that came out back around 2017 that was the same as a Excalibur for sure... not at that price it's not anyway. I would say it's a HF saw with King stickers and color.. Might as well go to HF and get it a little cheaper if you're going that route. At least HF you can return it.. as they have a pretty good return policy..

I didn't know King made a 22" saw like this. Last I knew they had a 21" that replaced the Excalibur back during when the Excalibur went to be made in the China factory.. This King is way cheaper than it used to be.. I really have to wonder if they sold the King name to that China company. You can't seem to find a new Excalibur anymore like you used to.. The word got around that they were junk after China started making them.. I would almost bet that they now have the King name.. Hopefully they're made better than the Excalibur was. Just a couple years ago the 21" King was priced right there with the Pegas and others.. now they're somehow only in the $500 - 600 price range and on sale for $450.. seems a bit sketchy to me considering they were nearly $1000 just a couple years ago.. prices aren't going down like that.. more like going up.. so if I were a betting man I'd say this is a China knockoff.. I see it also comes with free stand, LOL.. Too good to be true deal there if it's not made in that China factory.

I recommend the stand that is made for the saw.. That said, I've seen some real nice homebuilt stands with fancy drawer storage etc. too.. A lot of people like to have a slight angle so the saw is tilted forward some.. I have the factory stand and have the back legs higher than the front legs for a bit of an angle.. seems I don't have to hunch over so much then.. you may want to toy around with different angles etc to see what you like best.

They have all went up.. maybe tariffs but everything went up about 2-3 years ago.. Hawk raised the price of the saw by $200 or 300 I don't remember now but I know the 20 inch saw is now what the 26 inch was and now I think the 26" is around $1700 - 1800 plus like $150 - 200 shipping. I got mine back in 2017-18 with extras for just under $1700.. The Pegas used to be just shy of $800 when they first come out then they raised it to a little over 800 for a couple years and then around 2021 -22 they jumped to over a $1000 almost $1100.. and well over that if you want a stand etc..

I'm not on the up and up for Hegner but I think this is the only dealer in the US... https://www.advmachinery.com/collections/hegner-scroll-saws?srsltid=AfmBOor9iuzBmlGPO8J7cRth5iAUMWd_R83ONWx8-ig7MBl_8aeZsPB2

I'm not bashing any body's favorite brand saw but it has always made me wonder why a company would get enough returns on a saw to be able to offer "Refurbished" at a cheaper price. https://www.bearwood.com/product8582.html?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=20528065358&gbraid=0AAAAADgW79BzjoAVifjkwzD1y4Jcdj4sW&gclid=CjwKCAiA_orJBhBNEiwABkdmjFCIrvFVjvoJuvzLqAkvuo13srOKkaytLPy_hfzqaXLHAEP8yFNesxoCkM4QAvD_BwE#8582 This somewhat throws a red flag to me.. Pegas came out strong with a lot of good reviews and good advertisement.. mostly from one of the guys that worked for the magazine site company and he later got a job with Grobet or whatever the name of the Pegas parent company is.. Lets just say.. I've never seen brand new refurb Hawks or Hegners out there offered from the companies.. Now they do refurb "older" saws and offer them from time to time. You have to consider they are selling these very close to the price of the Hawk / Hegners now days.. They used to be considerably less.. Supply and demand raised the price.. Prices of other like models have not gone up so much like the Pegas did.. I could see it if they were ready to go out of the box but we aren't seeing that with every one of them. Not to be negative about so many peoples favorite saw brand but to me they're just a overpriced Excalibur or Grizzly saw.. The grizzly saw is a good 200+ cheaper and basically the same saw in my opinion.. actually it has a couple features that in my opinion improve the design. However IF I were not mechanically inclined and wanted good customer service I would look at the Jet saw and swap out the clamps to the Pegas.. Jet from what I've seen and heard has wonderful customer service.. it's a big company and not some small independent dealer that might go out of business at anytime leaving you to find another small independent dealer to get parts and service etc. Again, I see Pegas saws as good saws but I also see enough iffy situations and refurbs offered that it send me a red flag.. There are tons of positive reviews from users etc.. and obviously more than bad reviews.. Maybe they need to look at their quality control because it is a great saw.. I just don't see the high dollar price of a saw that is said to be a premium brand.. seems like the quality control is slipping on their job and or they know about issues but whoever over sees QC is overriding the issues they bring up and sending them out anyway.. I've noticed this a lot since Covid with almost every business. This is basically the same saw made in the same facility as the Pegas.. The blade chucks are different but the main workings of the saw is the same thing.. https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-21-variable-speed-scroll-saw-with-foot-pedal/g0969?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22439918094&gbraid=0AAAAAC0Fba1_p7kK3pecR2zRH-pJvjH1X&gclid=CjwKCAiA_orJBhBNEiwABkdmjB0Vwa2-9-jqBAmqETUdP26Jt_Qz8CCS06PXFV9tZs73hbAT4i9PVhoCD7EQAvD_BwE

My saw did the same thing new out of the box.. Mine is not a Pegas but is a Excalibur so same design.. I had to rotate my motor so far I had to remove the motor bolts completely and rotate to a different set of slots 3 times before I got it where it ran smooth like it should. I think they just slap these together at the factory and never test run them.. IF that motor and the linkage arms are binding at any one of the pivot points it won't run smooth throughout all the speed range of the speed dial.. You should be able to stand a Nickle on edge and turn saw on and run it through all the speeds and the Nickle shouldn't fall over... IF it's tuned properly and no factory defects. It took me a good couple days of tinkering with the saw to get it working like it should.. JT is correct, You shouldn't have to be doing these types of things to a brand new saw... I get it with the one I bought because it was a cheap China made knockoff and I didn't know that when I purchased it.. but once I did a little tinkering with it.. it's been a great saw.. Not a saw at the level of my Hawk or Hegner but still been a good saw.. I would have thought the Pegas would have been tested and inspected before it left the factory but maybe not.. Good luck.. P.S. IF you moved that arm and it improved or changed I'm betting the motor is just that far out of alignment.. because changing the arm changes the angles of the linkages and bearings etc inside the saw.. You want to start with having the arm at the same distance to the table top at both the front and the back of the arm.. Then mess with rotating the motor..

Welcome to the Village, I've written up the tuning process several times on here and it's quite a lot of typing.. Basically I would start with making sure the upper arm is parallel to the table and adjust as needed with the knob on top at the back of the saw. Then I would adjust the set screws in the blade chucks to make the blade in the same position in both bottom and top clamps.. I like to use feeler gauges to get the set screw to clamp at the same position. Then I would slightly loosen the motor bolts and put a small machinist square behind the blade and turn saw at lowest speed and run it while turning the motor. My saw needed to remove bolts and rotate to another set of slots to get it adjusted fully where it run the smoothest and least amount of forward / rearward movement of the blade. You want the blade to move as close to straight up and down at the table level. Doing these things helped my saw run so smooth you hardly know it's turned on.. Most of these things are listed in the manual of the saw.. they do say not to turn on the motor with the bolts loose and say to use a screwdriver to spin the motor shaft.. however I couldn't spin it good enough so I turn on the slowest setting and barely loosen it just enough to be able to rotate it. Spinning slow is hard to see the blade movement but running on low speed you see the movement perfectly and you can rotate while running to see which way to rotate to improve the movement.

Hawk and Hegner have closed end clamps.. That's why I suggested the big 30" Pegas / Excalibur.. Normally I'm all over the Hawk / Hegner saws for their quality.. Pegas/Excalibur are decent machines too though.. just not at the highest level. The design of the Pegas will also be a smoother running machine throughout the speed range, where as the Hawk / Hegner will have some harmonic balance vibration at certain speeds. Edit to add: I should also note that I'm talking about the older Excaliburs.. back before China took over the name and started making them cheap, LOL

Since you mentioned large pieces, I'd recommend a 30" Excalibur or Pegas saw.. they would be much better with any angle cutting too. Very smooth machines and you can easily adjust the how aggressive it cuts by rotating the motor.. That to me seems like it'd be important for this very detailed fine work.

Are you sanding before you attach a pattern? Where are you getting tear out? near drilling points, around the cutouts or just when peeling off the pattern. These questions might help pinpoint a problem.. I have noticed as my Baltic birch ply sits around and gets some different weather seasons cycled through it gets a bit of raised grain on the surface.. IF I don't pre-sand before applying the pattern then it'll tear off fibers of wood and sometimes are bigger pieces and cause chip out throughout the entire piece but especially bad near cut areas and or drilled areas.. This fall I started experimenting with sealing up the plywood as soon as I purchase it.. Not really knowing if it'll help or hinder I also used various finishes.. I've got Polycurlic, Lacquer, and Shellac on several of the pieces just to see how this impacts the plywood and the projects I make with it too.. Might be just the humidity of the Michigan weather but even if I sand a piece and get it ready for a project then get side tracked with a order of something else so set the sanded ply aside for a few weeks I'll have to lightly hit it again with the sander.. so hoping the pre -finishing will at least help with that. So far the sheets I've sanded and finished 5-6 weeks ago is still doing great.. one downside I see so far is I finished both sides and if it's a piece I need to glue a backer to.. well... the glued piece isn't holding all that great like it does with raw bare wood.. so I may have to consider only finishing the top side.