kmmcrafts

Took around 6 days to get the stick in the mail for me.. I opened it up and seen what the content of the package was as I had ordered other stuff too. I set it aside and low and behold if I can't find where I put the darn thing now, LOL.. I guess I should have just downloaded it so that way at least I'll know it's in a file on the computer somewhere. Anyway, it'll turn up when I least expect to find it and I do have it somewhere now.. just where? I don't know but I do have it. LOL

Interesting, I have a local supplier of many exotics but out of your list I only recognize Leopardwood, Bubinga and Sumac.. I've probably seen those at my local store but I don't recall any of these other names. They do have a fairly large room that is only exotics so they probably have it or have had it and I just forgot the names. Now I'm going to have to go look up the ones I've not heard of.

Likely the customer will be confused by which to buy unless you explain in detail the benefit or lack of for each.. Most woodworkers don't really know what is best let alone someone just shopping for a toy. When you give too much options and a customer has to think about it it gives them time to shop other shops and deters the purchase. Just my thoughts.. Even if you write a lengthy description of the types of finish.. most shoppers don't read the entire listing. I do think the option of unfinished or finished may be a good option as I've had many request for things to be unfinished as they wanted to do the painting / decorating it on their own.

Hmm, I've changed my mind then... I'm not buying one now.

Those have been hot sellers for the laser engraving community. They buy them and engrave / personalize them. Ammo cans too. I haven’t tried it but those that do say they sell like crazy. As soon as I buy a bunch of boxes and learn the techniques to engrave them the fad will be over and I will be stuck with a bunch of the boxes, This would be nice to store my CNC router bits and the tools I use for it though so maybe I should get one and practice engraving on it.

Yes I think you are right.. I believe it was Varathane water base lacquer.. and it wouldn't spray correctly.. rather than a nice mist spray it was more like spitting droplets. I used to like the water based polycurlic spray in the teal can.. I had read where others had issues with that stuff spitting like that. I went through a lot of cans of that stuff and then bam, I started getting cans that spit like this so I only use this stuff in the quart can and a spray gun. But the smaller batches I typically do much more of it's much more convenient to grab the spray can and get it done without having to clean spray equipment etc for 5 or 10 ornaments or less. IF I'm just building inventory then wait until I have 50 - 100 ornaments or whatever to do all at once with the spray gun.

You have any specific brand of Lacquer you use? I'm kind of wondering if some paint manufactures use the term "lacquer" as a clear coat finish rather than actual lacquer solvent finish type. Typically lacquer solvent base paints are pretty fast to dry. I bought some hardware store brand and it didn't even smell like lacquer and took much longer to dry than the Watco lacquer I had always used. Then I tried some other lacquer which I can't remember the brand name of now but it also was a disappointment. I've always used the Watco brand and it was starting to get hard to find and one store told me that Rustolium ( Watco ) was changing the formula to meet the environmental standards and all the local stores were out so I ordered several cases online a couple years ago. I'm now running out soon and I see they brought the Watco back and it seems to be the same stuff as far as I can tell. Many of the cans I purchased had defective spray nozzles and some seem like they don't have as much air pressure as they did ( probably why it was cheap and on sale).. so I'm kind of thinking about maybe switching to something else. Krylon has been a very good paint for my tractor restorations etc. in my past hobby and is what this triple thick glaze is that I've been using.

What Dan posted is exactly what I have.. now that you mention it.. I did do some puzzles back in the beginning of my scrolling days and I used this to topcoat the puzzle picture once I glued the picture to the plywood.. Forgot about that.. so this stuff is older than 2005, LOL. It does give depth to the pieces I made.

Anyone use this clear coat? Just wondering your thought and opinions on this stuff. I've had some cans laying around here for probably 20 years or more as my mother-inlaw used to do ceramics and I guess they used a lot of it to top coat after they paint the ceramics. I did some test spraying on some small projects and while it doesn't dry as fast as the lacquer it does cover really well on wood that really soaks up the first coat or two so I'm kind of impressed and I don't recall anyone ever recommending it as a top coat on here. The stuff I have is very glossy though and I'm not certain if they have anything other than gloss. Also wondering if anyone knows if they've changed the formula at all over the years, as a lot of paints / clears were good back then but the EPA crack down on some of the chemicals and now many of them aren't nearly as good as they used to be. Trying to decide if I should order some or not. LOL.. Probably should buy one can and see before ordering a case. Anyway, just wondering if anyone has used it and their thoughts of it.

I agree, I could see the stand part being nice for both phones and tablets etc. speaker portion isn't really needed though. I don't know whether I'll make any more or not. There is nice possibilities for some very nice ones and could do themed ones as well. Not sure if something like this would sell or not really. Kinda like clocks used to be good sellers but now days they're far and few for sales.

Yeah, I was kinda wondering the same thing. I made this one just because I was curious about the sound that comes out of it and whether it really did work. That being said, I could see a office worker or similar that has a small workspace would like something like this.

Strange, I went to the blog to order the USB and when I click on it, it takes me to a log in page and I don't have any accounts. Anyone else getting this? I tried it on both chrome and edge browsers thinking maybe something was wrong there. EDIT: I clicked cancel and then the page loaded and was able to purchase.. Not sure what was happening but it finally went through.

Thanks RJ, It was certainly a fun and interesting experiment. I think I'm going to scroll saw 2-3 layers of 3/4" Walnut or Spalted maple and make another one. The slot for the phone in the top was a bit narrow for my phone with my case on it but perfect if I took my phone case off so making the slot wider on the next one I do in hopes of making it fit with my phone case on.

I've always wanted to buy the patterns but never did get to it. Is there someone still maintaining the site and handling the sales? I know if something ever happen to me my wife is about clueless of how to do much of anything online and the things she has to do for work she will be at the computer for 5 hours for a 15 minute thing just because she thinks if she clicks on something she's going to accidently delete it or something. ... Used to have my computer set up to open a new screen when you click a link and she would freak out because she couldn't figure out how to get back to the other page, . Anyway, I'd love to buy the stick but I'm not sure if I would actually get it.. Let me know if there is someone still working the site and mailing these out etc.

Playing around yesterday morning and made this phone speaker amplifier thing. So basically a thingamajig . It’s a phone stand and you set the phone in and it amplifies the sound and directs it out the front for a lack of a better description. Works pretty neat but maybe should have made it taller. This is just several layers of 1/4 inch plywood glued together and I found that the sound gets better the more layers I added. Thought I’d practice with cheap plywood before I actually use some nice walnut or oak etc. on the CNC and carve it from two solid pieces. This one was cut out with the laser for quick testing on cheap materials. Actually think this could be done very easy on the scroll saw and probably much faster than the CNC etc. Side Note: My son sent me a video a few months back where a person was making these and having a hard time keeping up with sales.. they had them priced in the $150 - 300 range but more complex than this simple circle.. they were horn shaped and probably fairly large in comparison. Maybe they were made on a lathe I'm not sure but that's another idea for those running lathes.

So sad to hear this, prayers for the family and the many friends. RIP

Very nicely done! Love the colors chosen.

You know way more than I do about finishing wood.. I know in the automotive side of things you would never get away with putting lacquer over any kind of a oil based finish.. The solvents clash and winkle / lift the paint.. I would think a poly would be a much better choice for a topcoat over a oil solvent type finish.. If I was top coating anything over a blo or Danish oil I always used polyurethane but it's good to know lacquer will work too since I like lacquer better than the poly.. Just never brave enough to ruin a project over a oil finish so poly had always been my go to for top coating in those instances.

I dip mine in Danish Oil... I think a lot of people just dip in mineral oil but I like Danish oil for the small amount of polyurethane in it as well as the driers that help it dry out good. I've had mineral oil stuff seeping oil out as long as 10 weeks after dipping them so I don't like that stuff for that type of purpose.

First thing first when tuning these saws.. so first make sure the upper arm is the same distance from the table top of the saw at both front and rear positions.. Adjust it by turning the knob on top of the saw at the rear of the saw. Once it's completely parallel to the table top is when you start adjusting the motor slots. I keep a block of wood just the right size that just fits under the upper arm between the arm and table top so I can easily check to be sure the arm is still parallel. As these saws get older that knob at the back likes to start turning on it's own and will need readjusted periodically. Having that block of wood handy makes for quick checking and adjusting.

You might be able to get it closer to a straight up down by removing the bolts in the slots and moving the motor to the next set of slots. I had to do this 2 times on my Excalibur before i could really get it dialed in.. and doing so made the saw a whole lot more quieter and smoother running too.

Welcome to the village! I don't think they're making them anymore. I know there were a few other designs but I personally liked the Jim Dandy Easy Lift the best. I had one on my Dewalt back when I had a DeWalt and it was a wonderful upgrade / add-on. There isn't much to the thing and if you could find some pictures to look at it'd be quite easy and cheap to make and could get all parts for making it at a hardware store. Nothing more than some flat piece of aluminum about 1 inch wide and drill some holes for the bolts and make a slot for one of the bolts to slide in then a spring at the back for holding it up.

Oops, I didn't realize you're in Canada.. I'm not sure where to source the part.. The Bellows is hard to get to come out sometimes.. because the smaller end is pushed up over a nub on the linkage arm mechanism and it can be a slight bugger to get the new one pushed back up over that nub too. Small amount of dish soap might help make it slide over that nub but usually in my case I get too much and then make the whole thing slick and then can't get a good grip on it to push it on, .

Sounds like the bellows has went bad. Raise the upper arm in the upper position and on the bottom side of the arm is a removable plate held on with a couple screws. I believe you can access it from there. Seyco should probably have the part in stock I would think. For what it’s worth my saw has a bellows on both the upper and lower arms so you might be able to take the lower one apart and switch it around to the upper one. They are used on both to keep the linkage from slapping the inside of the machine. When you put it back together you can make the air line come out on either side so you can swap sides too. Hope this helps.

Just to follow up, we soldered the wire on better and I just put it back together and it works like it should now. This had been an ongoing problem over the last few years with this saw running jumping speeds around now and then. If you have this with your saw and you can solder you might try resolder the wires before buying parts.