kmmcrafts

Well I really am not in any hurry.. not like I don't have a saw or two or five to use .. that said.. why can't they put some sort of info about this on the website..or message a customer with some kind of information.. I think this is my biggest issue about the deal.. I wonder if this is how RBI ran the business back in the day? No wonder so many brand new never used old Hawks out there for sale... the folks that ordered them died before they received it.. At least I can joke about it, I'm not really mad.. just annoyed with how they handle informing the customer.. Maybe I should have ordered over the phone and maybe they would have given me some info about how long etc..or at least say it's back ordered.. hearing nothing whatsoever is what has me annoyed.. not the fact it's taking a long time... heck its cold in the shop and I doubt I'd set it up anyway.. I think this original topic got really derailed LOL

I have Nicole;s email as she sent me some documents on my 220VS so i replied to the email right after posting this.. I'll wait a couple days for a reply and then I suppose I will give them a call.. I understand what you mean and they have always been great to me with questions and parts.. I get real annoyed with business's that have websites and emails etc because it only takes a min to update someone about their order.. I know they have their hands in multipal stuff.. I do to.. and would almost bet that I get more orders a year than they do on the Hawks and parts.. yet I still manage to send every customer a email after every sale with approximate times of when I will be mailing out their order.. this is 200 plus orders a week starting from Oct. through to the new year.. on top of making my product and and packaging it.. yeah it's a lot of work.. and I'm only one person to answer email questions etc.. so when other business's don't bother.. It make me think my business isn't all that important to them.. It's not about not getting my saw.. I know it'll come sooner or later.. It's more about not giving a crap about the customer.. Then again, they've always been awesome on the phone.. and maybe online selling isn't really their thing.. the website is outdated and they've had products saying pictures coming soon for the three years I've been dealing with them.. I think they " could " have a booming business IF they ran it better... but it could be just a tax write off business for them on one of the other aspects of their business so they really don't care... whatever the case.. it seems as though they really don't care.. Anyway.. I'll give them a few days to respond to the email and then try to call if no reply..

Rolf, I ordered on the 23rd of Dec.. and then I had a question to ask about my old 220VS so I gave them a call about that on the 4th of Jan.. and I mentioned to Nicki that I had a new one on the way.. I only mentioned it because she asked me if I had an account.. so she looked up my account and said something about my saw hasn't shipped out yet.. That was all that was said.. I just went through looking for Iggy's post to see how long it was for him (5 weeks) as I know it was a long time because they was Harvesting etc.. at the time.. I didn't want to call and rush them into getting me a bad product because they was tired and rushed to get it out.. But yeah... I think if they keep this kind of thing up they won't be sellin too many saws for very long.... I love my two Hawks and am looking forward to my new one.. but I'm getting close to pulling the trigger and canceling the order.. $1800 with everything I ordered with it.. I knew going into this that it could take some time just by how Iggys experience was... however.. the excuse at that time was harvesting.. Do they harvest this time of year down there? I don't know I'm not a farmer but up here in MI only thing you could harvest this time of year is snow.. .. My thinking is I doubt they have these ready to ship.. or at least not many of them.. and being Christmas time may have depleted their inventory.. and.. most business's like to have very little inventory at the end of the year for tax reasons.. so.. maybe they are in running a batch of the parts... having bases and frames powder coated etc etc.. Still.. I went into this knowing they was slow at getting them out.. but most probably wouldn't know this.. a simple email saying something along the lines of being back ordered and will be XX days/weeks before they'd have something ready to mail.. but nothing.. not a word last Sunday was 6 weeks.. My opinion.. if they are going to be more than a couple weeks. they should have this stated on the website where you order.. of coarse..before you place the order.. something in BOLD print on the description page of the saw saying something like.. Saw May take X weeks before we can ship it.. otherwise your guess is mine.. I may be stubborn but.. If they can't reach out to me.. the only reaching out to them I will be doing will be to cancel out the order.. there is no reason they can't send out a message saying X amount of time because it's back ordered.. Every other business does this.. My CNC was back ordered.. while I never got any approximation time.. I was told it was back ordered.. I didn't get anything from Hawk other than my automated receipt that I got when I placed the order.. BTW, My CNC showed up in 3 weeks.. and they was REALLY back order.. They sold a lot of these on Black Friday and was back ordered about that time right on through.. I placed my order the Friday before that Sunday that I order the Hawk..

Just a heads up on the Hawk.. If you order a new one now.. by the time you receive it the seyco might be worn out... at least that is sort of how I'm feeling right now about the new Hawk I ordered 6 weeks ago and have not hear or seen anything about the saw short of the automated message with my order details.. You might want to consider the Hegner if you're in a hurry for a saw.. Just sayin..

This is what happens when you put the cart in front of the horse, LOL... I didn't give much thought to the clock size until I had already cut it out.. next time if I cut it again.. I'll likely change the design either bigger or smaller to fit the clocks I use.. See what happens after cutting so many ornaments? I forget how to make clocks... Actually spent most of my day today looking for that perfect portrait style pattern to cut.. I love cutting them but... they are a little harder to sell.. so I just cut one out every now and then... been a year since I've done a portrait cutting.. Man... so many choices.. have spent way too much time searching for the one I want. might as well just make some more clocks I guess that way I'll at least get something done ... I have inventory to build up but just looking for something that I haven't yet cut and give myself a bit of challenge.. Dang, Never mind... just got an order come in... now I have something to make

Cut this out this morning, pattern suggest 2-1/8 inch clock insert. Not wanting to add yet another size to my inventory I’m going with something I already have on hand. First picture is a 2” insert and the other is 2-3/4” What one looks best in your opinion? I personally think I’ll pribably go with the 2” but thought I’d ask others opinions. Probably make a base out of a contrasting color ( probably walnut ). The larger clock doesn’t leave much wood around the edge but the actual hole is only 2 or 2-1/8 I think so plenty of room even though it doesn’t look like it. If I was to make it as a wall type clock which I thought about, I think the larger clock would be better.

The popular angles is a good point.. Personally, since 2005 when I started scroll sawing.. I've only angles the saw maybe 5-6 times.. so yes.. not a factor for me.. I do like the knob turning feature of my Excalibur way over the way Hawk and DeWalt have theirs.. I'll say my Hawk is probably the worst angle design as it always catches / binds ( not smooth and easy to move ) but I'm not sure how the new one will be.. I'll tell you if I ever receive it, LOL The blade chucks / clamps is what is most attractive to me.. provided the price point make it a value to buy the Pegas.. The upgrade for my Excalibur was well worth the extra $100.. as I was about ready to trash the saw and send it to someone else to deal with.. those clamps made the saw very much more user friendly.. I think I would have got used to the stock ones eventually.. as I'm sure it was just a learning curve as was my Hawks..

Yes, my thinking too... We typically spend most of our summer at a local campground... I'd like to take a saw with me.. and the Hawks are too big and heavy.. I'm considering buying a 16" Excalibur once I get some of these other saws sold.. But I might just take the EX-21 too.. not sure of the weight difference .. but either way those slots for the tubes are a nice feature.. that is if we can get tubes that fit.. I'm probably going to buy some from Lee Valley as mentioned above.. but will wait to see if anyone post any other options first..

While the saws are basic same design.. there is more to it than just color.. such as.. blade clamps and detents in the angle adjuster.. some are gear crank to change angle while others just loosen the knob and you manually angle by hand rather than cranking the knob.. so as to not miss represent these saws.. they are not all the same.. while most of the main design of the saw is the same they all have different feature.. A BIG plus on the Pegas is the standard pegas clamp.. and the detents in the angle for the more popular angles.. Sure they are the same saw frame.. just different options and colors to choose from.. price points might sway ones opinion.. for me personally.. price being equal in all saws.. I'd go with Pegas simply for the better clamps.. @meflick Hawks are also orange... LOL Orange paint = quality saw.. when will the other manufactures catch on to this

Thank you, I'll check into them..

Yeah that's the ones I think I bought.. I bought the tubes with the plastic holder that holds 12 tubes? I also bought an extra 12 tubes but.. the tubes I ordered extra are smaller but only slightly.. and neither fit..

Anyone use the holes on the sides of the Excalibur saws body for their storage tubes? I have a whole stack of test tubes.. however not one of them fits into these holder holes on the body of the Excalibur.. If you do use these with test tubes.. what was your source for the test tubes.. I have a couple different sizes and neither fit.. With having so many saws and not really using any one dedicated saw.. well I mostly use the Hawk 226.. but whenever I move to another saw.. I'm always having to come back to the 226 to grab a blade.. I eventually move the tube to the saw I'm using.. just thought it make more sense to put a tube of blades at each saw.. That way I can be even more lazier LOL.. I suppose I could go measure the holes and do a search for the tubes the correct size for the Excalibur.. But that's the hard way... remember.. I said I was lazy in my last paragraph, LOL.. But I thought I'd ask because maybe someone will post a better storage system.. Now, I've seen a lot of your wooden storage racks etc.. I'm not looking for that kind of solution... Where my Excalibur is located.. I don't really have any tables or areas where I can set something down on.. which is why I was specifically looking for tubes that'll fit the slots on the sides of the base.. I don't need to put 10 different styles of blades at the saw.. I most commonly only use 3 different blades.. and if I need a uncommonly used blade getting up to get it isn't a big deal.. It's just that every time I switch to a different saw I've gotta get up to grab the blades.. I will be rearranging my shop soon so maybe I won't have the issue of one saw being clear across the shop.. Both the Hawks sit right next to each other and I keep my blade storage system right in between them so using either of these saws is not a problem..and the DeWalt sits right on the one side of the Hawk too so it's also not too big of a problem..

Don't have any tips, but wanted to say what a beautiful piece of work you have made there..

What I know if Don ( Old crow scrollwerks) is that he was a older gentleman and had been retired.. keeping up with his house and all and the declining health of his wife etc.. they moved into a retirement home... with limited internet access.. He talked about still running the pattern site as best he could but he would have limited internet and he didn't know how well it would go.. That is the last I've heard from him... that was about a year ago I believe.. He's a great guy to deal with and I really don't think he'd rip you for your money on purpose anyway.. I used to deal with him a lot on custom patterns but when he put out that notice I stopped because my pattern request are usually about something for a customer that I need to have in a timely manor.. How long has it been since you made the purchase? Maybe he only checks in once very week or two since he has limited internet?

Yeah I'm not quite sure what the big deal in on this topic.. Ray already said what he found.. and just to clarify.. Not all drill chucks are the same.. because it works for your drill doesn't mean it will for mine and Rays type of drill press... I notice right away that the jaws on your chuck do not stick out as far as the one does on my chuck with a 1/16 bit.. Either way... the other thread was locked for a reason and I see no real reason to re-open the can of worms.. Ray got his question answered so I think we all just need to drop this subject.. before Travis has to kick us all out..

I see the Harbor Freight drill press has the quill lock.. also seen quite a few other low cost drill press's with the quill lock.. Not sure it really has anything to do with the price of the press.. but I could be wrong.. I'm going to be in the market for a new drill press maybe this year.. my $2 Delta press is getting really sloppy and noisy.. I'll be looking on the Marketplace and craigslist and of coarse the online deals.. sooner or later I'm not going to have much choice if i wait for this one to give up.. LOL https://www.harborfreight.com/10-in-12-speed-bench-drill-press-63471.html

Yeah, done that a couple times, LOL.. one time was when the product had been sold and I was packaging it up for mailing it out.. Nothing like rushing out to the shop to get another made right away so I can mail it out in a timely manor, LOL Also done the custom pattern for someone with the name spelled wrong and didn't know it until I sent them pictures of the finished piece.. LOL

I'm sure there are many ways to do this and not everyone will do it the same way.. My way, I loosen the table clamp and then grab the table.. raise up the table and hold with one hand.. use my other hand to lower the quill to match the table..hold the table let go of the handle to lower the quill and tighten the able clamp.. Now that all said... watch out for the table raising and up to the quill.. that bugger sometimes slides harder than other times and I've done it more than once where I was pulling up the table and it was moving a little hard then all of a sudden let loose comes up and smashes my drill bit busting it in half, LOL Tips.. just like the scroll saw table top.. I wax the post that the table slides on so it goes up/ down easy and smooth... This helps a great deal.. That post on mine has some markings on it. just discolored marks from being abused before I got it.. but sometimes those little visual dings dents rust spot whatever it might be. for me.. I've grown to sort of know where the table spots I use the most are so I bring the table up close to where I think it would match the quill then I lower the quill down until i get them close enough to contact.. Takes some practice and sometimes some broken drill bits .. but I have it all down to muscle memory now and it just sort of comes natural.. Always said my next press will have the gear / crank to raise / lower the table.. I'm so used to using the table to adjust the depth of drilling that I doubt I'd ever use a quill depth stop ever...

Thank you all for the nice comments... Etsy has been a fun adventure but honestly I have put more focus in different places.. will continue on etsy but selling only on one site will never get me where I want / need to be... plus if etsy fell off the internet then I'd be up a creek without a paddle LOL.. While this is a accomplishment to recognize.. don't be fooled.. This just means 96% of sellers on etsy only had a few sales.. as I'm certainly not breaking any records on there.. LOL

I'm thinking.... smoke it coming from the ears, LOL How about Jesus standing and creating the sun of napkins? I don't know how to describe it in words but maybe someone will understand it, LOL ... probably not though..

JT, You're not always wrong.. you always give wonderful advice and I think I can speak for all of us here on the village we value your years of experience.. Now.. also should clarify too.. you're not always right either... But nether are any of us.. as we all are human so take it easy on yourself..

I don't know how it can get any clearer than this.. I might have an advantage on the subject though... because.. Ray and I both have the same drill press... and for me personally with the bits I have that are 1/16"... I've never had a bit that size that would drill that deep without this issue.. the smaller the bit. the more the chuck jaws protrude.. so.. basically the bit he is using is too short.. yeah it might measure to be a 2" bit unchucked but once in the chuck and the chuck jaws protruding out.. I really think the problem is too short of a bit.. because I have the same press... But not sure.. maybe he has a bit longer than I've ever had... I don't have this issue anymore since I bought a mini chuck for small bits.. So anyway, in a nut shell, I knew exactly what he was saying because... I've been there done that with my press which is just like his..

I have the same press as Ray.. and the chuck on mine doesn't hold the small bits well... there is certainly enough travel in the quill for drilling 1-1/2" stock.. I've had the same issue in drilling hole with them small bits.. and I've had the bit slip but not noticeable as in spinning speed.. but once drilled the bit had backed up into the chuck just a little.. As for the quill stop.. On this particular style drill press... it's much easier to just leave the stop where it bottoms out at full length quill extension and ( well actually I have mine at about half way ) move the table to the bottom out position than it is to move the quill stop.. Not the easiest set up to mess with.. so for me.... I have certain stop blocks right at the press... If I'm drillin out a clock I have a thickness scrap ( all my clocks the same thickness as I plane my own lumber ) I drop the block on the press table raise the able to the bit I'm using with the quill bottomed out and touching the tip of the bit..I get the correct depth every time.. Much easier to loosen the table than to adjust those stupid two nuts that if I don't get them tight enough they vibrate and adjust themselves and change the depth on their own while I'm drilling.. LOL Mine is a well used and worn press that I bought at a tractor parts swap meet..only gave $2 for it about ten years ago.. I've drilled a lot of holes with it.. getting noisy and probably going to need to replace or rebuild it.. I like the little thing.. Maybe my quill stop is broke or something.. because I know it shouldn't move once I lock it but it does.. and where it's at ( about half way ) is where it goes to and stays on it's own so I let it have its way.. my work around works well for both of us, LOL

This statement here make me think he's getting enough travel in the quill... but the bit is too short OR slipping back up into the chuck.. Doing this will increase the distance from the drill chuck.. therefor you'd need to raise the table up to get the same distance down into the wood.. When I drill pilot holes on my little 8" Delta press.. I always do as what JT said.. I put the sacrificial piece down on the table.. I then adjust the table so the drill bit with the quilll all the way down will bottom out on my sacrificial piece.. I then raise it just a very small amount.. This way I know my bit is going to go through the piece I'm drilling... but not go through my sacrificial piece.. I don't need to make holes on my drill press table so I always, always bottom out the bit just slightly below the top of the sacrificial piece.. His problem is either the bit is too short... or slippage once he starts drilling... that is the only two things it can be "IF" the chuck is going all the way down and hitting his piece he's drilling.. Another thing that sometimes happens to me when drilling my holes for the clocks using the forestner bits.. The table on my Delta just has a clamp to hold the table height.. I've had a few instances where I didn't have the clamp tight enough and as I drill the table is moving down so I'm not getting the depth that I had set it up for.. But that doesn't sound like his problem because he is bottoming out the chuck to his piece of wood and not getting through the back side.. so again.. drill bit too short... or slipping back up into the chuck... the only two options it can be..

You might actually like that saw Scott as they do have a more aggressive cut much like the DeWalt.. I really like my Excalibur now that I have the Pegas clamps on it.. Do wish it had more table in front of the blade though.. only like 4" from front of blade to edge of table.. DeWalt is like 6.5"..