kmmcrafts

Talking over the years with other woodworkers and the topic always seems to come up about the new direct drive table saws.. the consensus seems to be they don't like the direct drive saws.. What is your take on the two? I've never used a belt drive saw.. I only have and have used my little cheapy Tradesman 10" benchtop type saw.. I have a big older Craftsman belt drive saw if I want to go pick it up.. was my father inlaws and was given to me if I want it.. back then ( before my new shop ) I didn't have room for it.. But before I do drag the thing home.. I'd like to know if I really do want it, LOL

My thought exactly JT.. and yes it is just a cheap Delta table top model.. I picked it up about 10 years ago at a garage sale for $25.. was still pretty much new.. While I don't use it a whole lot I'd also be lost without it for certain things that I do use it for.. I think Murphy seen me put new knives in it last year and thought he'd talk me into a new jointer.. At a recent wood expo show I was looking / thinking quite hard about the bigger Jet jointer they had on display.. but was hard to justify $1000 for something I just don't use a lot but still need in the shop.. Plus.. no more than I use the thing.. it's also hard to justify the floor space the bigger higher end ones take up.. not that I'm short on space (YET anyway ) Money better to spend on better saw blades as we discussed yesterday.. Like a better table saw and someday a router..

Yeah, I used what I had on hand.. in a normal situation I'd probably use a much finer paper.. Today all i had was 600 grit wet dry paper and I used it wet.. I use the black wet / dry paper a lot on the autobody business to color sand any over sprays etc off and then buff the cars out.. Normally use on the paint a 1200 for quick cutting blemished spots in paint.. but the final grit before buffing would be 2200 2500 grit.. but the finest paper i had here was only the 600.. so I gave it a go since i had planned to order new knives anyway.. but thinking I might not need new ones yet now.. probably pick up some finer grit sand paper next time I make a run to the bodyshop supply store.. That sharpening stone looks quite interesting.. and I'm sure is a much better way than even using the "Good" sandpaper.. I might have to invest in one of these

That looks like the one I was thinking about...

A few years ago for Christmas I received from my brother - in -law this jig to sharpen the planer / jointer knives.. I never used the thing and actually forgot I had it.. while going through my tool cabinet today I ran across it and though.. hey my knives are getting dull.. actually planned to place a order before the months end for some new knives.. So, I gave this little jig a whirl and I have to say.. it cuts quite well again.. not quite as good as a new set probably but certainly better than they was.. Maybe could be as good as new if i spent more time on them with different grits of paper.. but anyway.. Just thought I'd share my experience with this tool.. and wondered if anyone else has this or something similar.. I know there are tons of videos on youtube about making a jig with your table saw.. I was researching that a couple of years ago when my brother inlaw was here... guessing that's what gave him the gift idea, LOL https://www.rockler.com/deulen-planer-jointer-sharpening-jigs-sharpening-jigs?sid=V9146?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla&utm_campaign=PL&gclid=Cj0KCQjwuafdBRDmARIsAPpBmVXdE3HAHxBO4lqlSHgYOubgiwusTy9OgThqTfkOS-oxh8cJmt5bYRYaApXMEALw_wcB

Very nicely done!! I also purchased those patterns... probably be a long time before I get to them though..

JT thank you for your in depth reply.. I have to say I don't know much about any saw other than a scroll saw.. and really know very little about woodworking outside of scroll sawing.. You mentioned about the blades being different from the table saw vrs miter saw.. I'm glad you did reply... I done some research on saw blades today after reading that.. and I learned a whole lot about them.. and the reason for different designs etc.. To be honest.. I knew there was a difference in a cross cut vrs rip blade.. but honestly didn't know what that difference really was.. I always thought it was more about number of teeth more than anything.. and I've never been able to get a nice clean cut on my miter saw.. I always played it off to the fact I run some cheaper blades.. which could be part of it but more so.. I am really not using the right blade for the job at hand.. Anyway.. I learned a lot today about saw blades... and my next purchase is some good blades correct for the jobs I intend to use them for.. they will be mounted to my saws Table and miter before I use them again.. BTW, I ordered the 2" clocks today.. they usually arrive in just a couple of days.. so i'll get a couple pictures of what they are for you..

I started with ereplacementparts website.. they showed it NLA.. so then I took the part number from their site and googled that.. several other sites showed the same NLA.. Tried eBay with the number ( be surprised how many obsolete parts I've found on eBay by searching the part number with the brand of tool) there was a page there but was sold out.. So.. then when I took the saw back apart and got the switch out I entered the numbers off the switch and googled that.. Guess what.. ereplacement parts had that switch.. which is the same switch for a different model saw.. with a superseded number.. a little more researching found it was in fact the same switch..

I didn't know any scroll saw supply sites was selling them.. I might have to look into it.. Actually.. I'm considering trying one of my labels on bare wood to see how bad they might stick.. since wood is kind of porous they may not stick so bad to bare wood... Also I have removed them from old boxes so i could recycle some of the boxes I receive from shipments of supplies etc.. by using a hair drier to sort of heat up the sticky glue. they peel right off a box doing this.. not enthused about having to heat up wood projects every time to get the pattern off BUT I'll try it once with my labels to see if I have to LOL

I hope to order my clocks tomorrow.. I was going to do it today but got sidetracked trying to repair my miter saw ( posted about in the General section ) and getting some scroll work done.. before I knew it the day was over... My one and only complaint about ordering clocks from Sloans.. they don't have a web site to order from.. either print out a order form and snail mail it in or call.. their time zone is different than mine.. so I can't do it early before I go out to the shop.. then I always get busy and forget until it's too late, LOL Sorry to hear about one of the clocks not working.. I've personally never had any issues with the smaller clocks.. Had a terrible time with a batch of 3" from either not running at all or running way too slow or way to fast..LOL I think a bad batch must have escaped quality control.. still use the same style clocks and never had another issue since then..

I don't know if any remember how I had some issues with my jointer motor variable speed issue back in June.. and the electric motor shop said it's time for a new one as the parts are obsolete.. This motor service place use to save me a ton of money.. but the good guy doesn't seem to work there anymore.. They said the variable speed chip in the circuit board was bad and the circuit board is no longer available.. Well I did some research and found a circuit board but wasn't worth nearly $200to me since this same jointer new is only $250 ish.. Anyway I called the motor shop about bypassing the VS.. he said it was not able to do that on this set-up.. well turns out it is.. after lurking around the web and finding others having the same issue.. some guy posted something about if you have a motor with brushes then you can bypass it.. Anyway after getting this thing apart I see it has a normal pot switch in it.. however I don't care for the VS anyway and always left it on fast speed.. I just wired it to bypass that and it's working great.. Unfortunately but I used to brag and send that motor shop a lot of business over the years.. Doubt I'll go back there for anything much any more since the one guy isn't there anymore.. Good day today since I found a fix for my miter saw ( another post earlier today ) and now I got this jointer going.. Just didn't get much scroll sawing done.. only cut 10 ornaments today.. and my goal was to cut about 60, LOL.. Guess the day isn't completely over yet, LOL

I'm first in line to get one when you do... LOL I do this same thing many times with patterns.. then cut the board down in smaller pieces... My friend has a vinyl plotter that you just put the roll of vinyl on and cut out the stickers.. that's what made me think of that.. LOL... His plotter doesn't print just cuts.. but some of the more expensive ones do print... there you go.. another little side business to add to the others.. you can sell the stickers in another booth at the shows,

I searched yesterday for a good couple of hours looking to find a source for the switch.. Couldn't find any info.. Yesterday when I took it apart.. I seen some numbers on the switch.. but I cleaned up the contacts as best I could and put it back together.. and it worked for about two more cuts and then wouldn't shut off, LOL.... SO... the contacts shorted and melted together.. I just left it alone for the rest of the day.. Just a few minutes ago.. got to thinking about those numbers on the switch.. as we all know... Hitachi didn't make the switch and probably didn't make any custom switch that just had to be bought through them... where there is a will there is a way.. I just took it apart and punch in the numbers on the switch on google... wahla.. just ordered a new switch for $20 shipped.. After reading all your replies.. I think I'll stick to my guns and save a little more and buy the nice yellow DeWalt one that I wanted to begin with.. I just didn't want to but my bank savings down so low right now.. maybe after the holidays which will give me some craiglist research time etc.. I use the darn thing so much i'd be lost without it.. but if needed I suppose the table saw or bandsaw would work in it's place for a short time but.. I normally keep my table saw set up just to chop BB ply to size.. and would be a pain to keep swapping blades around etc.. Thanks for all the replies.. and look forward to hearing more since I'm probably still going to buy a new one that'll cut more like a 8" board in half without flipping the board around etc.. which I think a many of the 12" ones without the sliding feature will do.

I'm betting you they'll be too sticky to get back off easily... Mine get really hard to get back off if I stick them on then get sidetracked and they set around for a week or so.. I'm betting you should look into white shelf liner and cut it down for the printer.. Need a way to hook the whole roll to the printer... then you could print 8ft sections to fit your boards LOL

Well I have a pretty old Hitachi 10" miter saw that I bought online probably 12 or more years ago as a refurbished unit.. Guess I got my $50 worth, LOL The switch went out on it.. and I took it all apart and found the contact points about fried as they get, LOL Looked for a new switch and turns out it's NLA... Yeah I'm smart enough to get around all that if I needed to by wiring up an old toggle switch or something.. Which I may do just to keep around as a back-up or something.. I use the saw almost every day just chopping lumber to length for my scroll saw projects etc.. so not having it will be a pain for me as it was my go to saw for chopping.. anyway.. I bought it back before the sliding ones came about.. so anything more than 6" wide I couldn't chop without flipping the board around etc.. One reason why I'm not too pressed to repair this one.. LOL Anyway what saw do you have or recommend.. I was wanting to buy a high end something but not sure after looking at some of the DeWalts at better than $500.. I can spend that much.. but is the yellow plastic casing worth the extra cost over Hitachi or other lower cost models? My old one had a laser beam.. which I really found useful so that would be a plus for me.. Kind of looking at a Kolbalt from Lowes they have a pretty nice looking 10" and 12".. really like the 12" but then I'd probably need to buy all new blades, LOL... 10" is nice because my tablesaw is also 10" and I can swap blades around if needed..

I must have deleted my go to seller for them on eBay..or they removed the labels from their inventory because I usually keep them in my fav. list for quick access but just a couple quick links to show the pricing.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/250-Shipping-Labels-Full-Sheet-8-5x11-Self-Adhesive-PACKZON/152896747215?epid=1364563073&hash=item23995b36cf:g:4kUAAOSwjn9Zj2Gt https://www.ebay.com/itm/1000-Full-Sheet-Shipping-Labels-8-5-X-11-Self-Adhesive-USPS-UPS-FedEx-Amazon-FBA/372115530523?epid=17007863752&hash=item56a3d0631b:g:y3EAAOSw~l1Z8CSS Probably should look into different brands to see if I could save money on having to buy the shelf liner too.. be nice to find some that you could stick right to the wood and have it peel back off easily.. that said though.. I'm thinking that wouldn't work.. I'd rather they be sticky and not worry about them coming off my packages.. LOL

I use the full sheet labels.. Buy mine from a seller on eBay 1000 at a time.. they do sell them smaller quantities too but the larger amount the better the deal.. since I sell online and actually use shipping labels for that it's kind of a win win to have them on hand anyway. That said.. the supplier I first started out getting them from.. well those labels barely stuck to the boxes etc.. stuck great to a taped up board or on the shelf liner but not so much on bare wood.. and I always was taping over the label on my packages because they'd start lifting up on their own.. Now I get them from another seller.. and.. they stick so well I barely can get them off my fingers and you better make sure they are stuck where you want it because they don't come back off once they touch something... almost including my fingers I haven't had any luck using them stuck to bare wood.. depending on the label.. they either lift off during cutting.. or you can't get them off.. so... I still use the shelf liner / tape or whatever to cover the wood first.. I'm pretty much betting that the suppliers on eBay are getting seconds or something as cheap as they sell.. I been getting 1000 sheets about every year and the most I've paid is about $50.. I think they've bumped the price up since my last purchase and I'm going to need to get some again soon.. Not sure how a different brands etc would do.. as for peeling back off bare wood.. I like them just because there is no mess of spray glue going all over the surrounding area.. and I feel it's less time just peeling and sticking rather than flip over on a scrap piece of cardboard and spraying that nasty glue all over.. Not to mention... no clogged nozzles to deal with either..

Don’t always rely on it being okay because you bought a pattern from a designer. I’ve been nailed twice on patterns I bought from well known designers.

Okay.. so I guess I'm not quite understanding your question.. You don't need to remove any bearings to change the blade chuck.. Now.. you might need to move the bearing sleeves.. Once you remove the nuts on the hex head screws.. and slide out the screws.. you should be able to push the sleeve out if I remember correctly.. I did have one of them on mine that was sort of jammed or stuck but wiggling the clamp around helped as I used a small screw driver to sort of push on the sleeve.. Hope I made some sort of sense LOL

Well, I check my email until you mentioned it... I had not seen it yet..but would have eventually.. as I am signed up on the email list.. Thanks for the heads up though.. defiantly going to cut that one.. I have another batch of "New" clocks I'm working on so I'll add it to my list.. cut 4 new ones last night..

For the most part.. I'd consider all images copyright protected unless otherwise stated on the pictures and or.. posted on a royalty free site... so basically yes you'd have legal issues.. not to mention that most likely the puzzles you seen are infringed upon because they are movie / show characters.. especially Disney and professional sports things... are largely illegal.. I'll also say that probably about 90% of anything you see on Pinterest is copyright or trademarked infringed.. Probably nothing wrong with making them for yourself.. just don't try selling them.. and personally I wouldn't post any photos of the pattern or the finished work made from something with copy written images etc..

Glad you was able to get back to a home.. I'm actually surprised you don't have at least half you shingles gone with the wind they say these storms have.. The loss of 75 puzzles stinks but in the whole scheme of things.. it's very minor of what could have been.. so you can count your blessings on that one.. Yeah you'll be able to write them off on your taxes.. maybe on your business insurance? Mine covers my inventory and equipment etc.. as well besides the liability stuff that I got it for originally, LOL Anyway.. glad you came out as good as you did.. and hope you'll have things running back to normal very soon..

I don't think there is any jail time for cross posting so I say go for it.. .. I think Steve is a pretty busy man and put the forum up for others.. Seems like at one time he was going to shut it down but then someone offered to help run it? I rarely go there and actually had forgot about it.. mainly because I kept having trouble logging in back in the day when he had some issues.. and they lasted for a couple months.. use to be quite regular there.. Guess I should hop over there one day and see if I can get back on it.. The cross posting thing I dislike most is on Facebook.. I belong to a lot of the groups... and apparently so does a few others.. and when they post their projects on 3-6 of the different groups.. then my news feed is full of the same posting and I end up having to scroll for 15 minutes of the same postings just to get to something different.. especially if that person post two or three postings on all of those groups.. and then when 3-5 other people also do the same thing... That one just really annoys me.. so I dropped a lot of the Facebook stuff simply for that reason..

Thank you! Yeah well these are really quite simple ones to make.. and with a little bit of seat time at your saw you'll be able to comfortably do this much work in a day..How you have your shop set up will also play a huge roll in what you can do in a days worth of work..

I have not ordered these yet.. I also have never used the 2" inserts before ( that I remember anyway ) I belong to several large lawn and garden tractor clubs (ie John Deere Simplicity, Wheel Horse etc) I made myself a wheel horse logo pattern and made a clock.. I liked it very much and posted an image on the club website.. not for sale.. but at any rate.. I ended up getting permission from Toro Wheel Horse to use the logo.. I sold about 50 clocks within just a few hours once I did put some up for sale.. Anyway my story is.. The cheapest clocks I could find at the time (2007) was plastic with the plastic back cover... I used them in all those clocks.. I have several here that I still have in use.. Never had a complaint.. and mine still work great.. I believe the 2" clocks still use the same motor so I really don't have any worries about it being plastic. Maybe the motors have changed but like I said.. I've never had any issues with them.. I have since upgraded to metal cased clocks and I buy factory direct now with Japanese made moters etc.. I can order the 2" ones with Metal cases etc.. just as I do the smaller ones.. I just don't use the 2" that much.. but I may change to those once I see in person how the 2" compares to the smaller ones.. I'm getting quite low on the small inserts and will be ordering again in the next month or so.. I may order both small and the 2" ones... At one time.. I had a lot of issues with the larger 3" + sized clocks.. and at that time.. I went to all suppliers I could find online.. order small quantity samples of various sizes and styles that I used at the time.. Found that they all are pretty much made in China and probably the same factory.. There are two different motors that I am aware of.. the Japanese and Chinese for the smaller inserts.. I do buy the USA movements for the wall clocks with hands etc ( not inserts ).. I'm going to order some from sloans soon and I'll take some pictures of what I get to show you.. But I'm doubting I'll order any more than just a few from them.. If I like the size etc.. I'll be placing a large order factory direst with metal cases.. I do like the metal cases better.. but never an issue in the past with the plastic ones either..