kmmcrafts

find a way to mount a solid steel rod and mount it up higher.. then put you some of those bigger tires from Harbor Freight.. so they are off the ground slightly.. then you can tilt the saw back like a dolly.. roll it where you want with ease..

That is the model I have my planner mounted to... Maybe they are different now but the bottom of the legs are springy and my planner bounces all over the place.. which is okay for a planner.. but I wouldn't want my scroll saw on it.. Maybe mine was a defective one I don't know.. like I said.. works for my planner.. also could be I have the leg extensions all the way to the highest setting.. Maybe someone else will chime in on this.. I used the smaller model one for many of my other benchtop type tools.. drill press, belt/disc sander, grinder, chop saw etc etc.. I bought a bunch of them on a sale and a 25% coupon... think I have around 10 of them, LOL some still in the box, LOL.. Guess I went a little over board on them.. But I think with the deal I had they cost only about $12 EA.

There are some on here that have used the Harbor Freight stand.. They sell ( last I knew ) two different ones.. I had my EX-21 mounted to the smaller one for a short time.. The stand mounting footprint isn't big enough.. I mounted a piece of plywood to the stand then the saw to the plywood.. I have my planner mounted to their bigger stand and it's real bouncy.. don't think a scroll saw and the bigger stand would get along to well. My Excalibur vibrated pretty bad unless it was running real slow.. like around 1/2 speed on the dial or less.. anything above that was vibration.. but.. I did have the plywood mounted off center which could have caused that.. I ended up buying a stand made for the Excalibur.. been very good since mounting it to that.. The EX stand it built a little heavier than the Harbor Freight stands that I have..

Mail lady stopped today.. which I thought was weird because I hadn't ordered anything or scheduled any pick-ups.. anyway.. she asked me since she knew I did woodwork if I'd be interested in making a rolling pin holder.. she is remodeling her kitchen and doing a retro style decor.. the pin holder will need to hold about 4-5 pins.. on the backer.. she wants it extended and a 60's VW van either cut out or wood burned into the wood.. she prefered wood burned outlines so she can paint it.. Said she had plans for over a year for this piece but with working and everything she hasn't been able to get out to the woodshop.. Turns out she not only a mail lady.. she is also a graphics artist.. maybe I'll have a new pattern designer, LOL Anyone ever made a rolling pin holder... I never knew what they was.. but that's not surprising since the kitchen and I don't get along the greatest.. except the microwave and the toaster oven actually not a bad cook.. but... baking is a different story, LOL

I was always in the understanding that Niqua blades was the same as Flying Dutchman blades.. they used to be from what I've read in the past on other message boards.. Mike used to get his blades from Niqua and he is the one that gave them the Flying Dutchman name and trademarked the name.. he use to be the only dealer in the US for FD blades.. and any blades sold under the FD name was sold through him to other distributors..

Etsy also recently started collecting tax on WA & PA.. just as Amazon has.. not sure what eBay is doing..

I've read of this issue on the DeWalts as well... so when I bought my DeWalt 12 years ago.. I also ordered extra blade clamps... unfortunately or fortunately LOL.. however you want to look at it.. but I've never had to install a new one yet.. Kinda guessing I bought them for nothing now.. but it'll be something that.. when I do need them.. I won't know where they are anyway.. taped to my saw stand in a bag of parts.. Might be worth big money one day when they become obsolete and someone needs them.. I'll have two new ones for someone that has fat wallets I suppose.lol

I'm thinking most small sellers will be exempt.. and I'm thinking that the selling venues are the ones they are after.. I read or heard somewhere that unless you have 2000 orders and $150,000 in sales you'll be exempt.. whatever the case.. I'm hoping my accountant knows what to do.. because I know very little about it.. I'll keep selling and giving my accountant work.. unless it comes to a point where it cost me more money to sell my stuff than I make..

They've been trying to enforce this for several years now.. and i think any online business should have figured it's coming sooner or later... I seen this ahead of time and made the decision to sell on a venue such as etsy amazon ebay etc.. because keeping track of this stuff will make it too interesting to do on my own.. I have an accountant that takes care of my tax issues.. I have a feeling this is going to wipe out a lot of small time business's due to the complexity of what / how this will all be done.. I know there are lot's of [people that shop online because they can get items cheaper sometimes because they avoid sales tax... what many of those that do this don't probably know is... they are actually supposed to pay the state tax on those online purchases under the "Use Tax" law.. My neighbor ( cousin I grew up with ) is an accountant working for the state and her job is to audit taxes.. specifically she is the one people hate to see LOL.. but the state loves her, The next thing coming might just be about those who run a online business without a tax licence.. not sure about other states.. but here.. you're not supposed to be selling online without a sales tax licence and ID numbers.. I personally know a lot of people selling as what the state and IRS would consider a business used things they pick up at auctions and garage sales and the list it on eBay.. some make decent money doing it.. even few people I know selling like this on etsy... I fear for those who have been doing this.. because eBay etsy and other places are required to be keeping track of this.. and for etsy.. all my records are there for me to view.. I can download sales from way back to 2010 when I first opened up shop and played around as a hobbyist just seeing if something would sell.. To sell on Amazon handmade section I couldn't sell until my tax info was in their system.. that is not needed on etsy and eBay.. so many people seem to think they can just sell there without being legal to collect and remit sales tax... those that think that... could be up for an audit one day... legally I've heard they are only allowed to go back 7 years.. but my state doesn't seem to care about that if money is owed to them... but they don't seem to worry at all about if they owe anyone money LOL All this said.. this is why I always suggest even as a hobby seller.. Take care of the legal stuff before selling.. want to just test the waters to see if something will sell... best to do that as cash in person selling such as a craft fair at a local church.. At the end of the day.. this is done because of those that bought online to avoid paying that "Use Tax" that was their responsibility to do but very easy to avoid doing... now online sellers and accountants can thank them from the bottom of their hearts

Me To Ray, I've done a lot of finishing with steel ( cars, motorcycles and equipment ) but when it comes to wood I am sort of in the dark.. I've always used Danish oil.. I've tried most of the spray finishes ( Deft, Poly, Shellac etc..) and have never cared for the way the look turned out.. not horrible.. just not great.. My favorite finishing to date is Danish oil, Mineral oil & beeswax mix that I make myself, Not a fan of painting wood.. I like to use different types of wood to achieve the colors i need.. Probably would love to do intarsia.. but haven't gotten around to that one yet.. LOL

Thank you for taking the time to go into the depth that you did to explain this.. I've read in the past that Danish oil was basically the same as the 50/50 mix with BLO / mineral spirits.. I do remember early in my scroll sawing days when they discontinued Danish oil for a short time.. and then they mentioned the changes and many people saying the "new" oil wasn't as good.. that was when I started learning of the self made mixtures.. though I never actually tried until a month or so ago, LOL I sand my work down to 320 grit papers.. never tried lacquer on wood projects.. painted several cars with it years ago ( maybe different lacquers though ).. Typically never use a blade larger than a #5 and many times my go to blade is actually a #3 depending upon the saw I use and how aggressive the cutting is.. Again, Thank you.. I'll probably just stick to the Danish oil that I've been using of the years.. think i'll try a can of lacquer to see how that goes.. but I can say for sure that I don't like the poly on my clocks.. I do use it for sealing up thin fretwork such as portraits.. which I don't do a lot of..

Okay, I've heard many times about mixing up 50/50 BLO and Mineral Spirits... I just did that for my first time a month or so back.. even though I've read it over and over for years.. Other day I seen a youtube video where they mixed BLO/Wipe On Poly/Mineral Spirits .. Anyone ever mixed in the poly like that? I'm not a chemist and the way my luck goes I'd mix an explosion, .. I've also read where that was basically what Danish oil is? I do like the look that Danish oil and the 50/50 mix look but I also find the Danish oil looks dried out and looses its warm glow so to speak once dried a good few weeks.. haven't had this mix of BLO long enough to see how that looks longer term.. I like the idea of having some sort of sealer of sorts in the mix.. Anyway, just looking for thoughts on certain dipping type finishes.. Not looking to dip and then top coat with a spray poly.. done that once and really wasn't impressed with my outcome.. maybe I'm too particular with spray finishes because of my autobody spraying background.. I have never once seen a fretwork piece with a spray finish mine or others from craft shows that I thought was acceptable... many people do it.. and say they get good results.. I haven't personally seen that yet.. any fretwork sprayed finish I've seen has not had even good coverage in the fret cutouts.. in the nooks and crannies..

I also put used blades in a large can.. Scrap metal prices are up right now in my area last I checked was about $175 a ton.. Not sure how many blades will equal a ton.. but I'm workin at it.. and figure by the time I get to that ton... those blades should be worth more than I paid for them

Congrats to the new shop member, lol.. I think you’ll be very happy with the Excalibur, they are an awesome saw. My favorite saw in the shop is the one that works, I have used a lot of different saws from about every low end saw to the Hawk. I can find things I like about each one and things I dislike about each one. At the end of the day.. if the blade stays in and the motor turns I can make my projects I want with whatever saw is put in front of me. Some have even gave me some exercise chasing them around the shop as I use them

Just for clarification.. someone mentioned seals? My saw doesn't have any seals.. maybe some did but I'm doubting it.. My saw is built just like the DeWalt.. Mechanics of the saw is pretty close to that of the DeWalt..with some added features of coarse.. I don't want people to take me wrong.. if the right buy came along I'd buy it again.. but if I were looking for a brand new saw.. unless I was doing angle cutting.. I 'd save some money and buy a DeWalt.. that's just me though.. The EX definitely has better features as in adjusting the blade stroke movement etc... That all said.. The saw you put pictures of on this post... hard to see the table real well with the sun glare on it.. but from what I can see... I don't think it was used very much.. I'm betting that saw will vibrate pretty good the way it's mounted to that stand? My saw didn't come with a stand.. and I mounted to to a cheap light weight stand.. and it vibrated pretty bad.. Once I mounted it to an actual EX stand.. it runs real smooth.. so if you try it out.. just keep that in mind.. stand mounting and stand balance to the floor can make most any saw vibrate bad..

The saw tilts.. I believe all the EX saws have the tilting saw and the table stays flat.. Unless one is going to be doing a lot of angle cutting.. I really see very little advantage of the EX over the DeWalt.. But for me I do see some negatives on the EX that the DeWalt has.. (ie blade much closer to end of table ( which is my biggest complaint with that saw).. table not as wide.. top speed is 1500spm vrs. 1750 ) these things aren't going to affect but a small percentage of people.. maybe only me cause I'm different and weird like that But personally I prefer my DeWalt over my Excalibur.. but that is only with my DeWalt having the Jim Dandy easy lift so the upper arm goes up and stays until I lower it.. I suppose a lot has to do with the fact that I've run my DeWalt A LOT! for 12 years.. and maybe I'm just accustom to it more than any other saw.. I will say... I haven't touched my DeWalt yet this year... mostly cutting with my old Hawk 220VS.. and the more I use it.. the less I like any of the other saws.. including the newer Hawk 226 Ultra..Maybe just because it's the only saw I've been using since the new year.. other than I did cut about 25 puzzles with the EX.. and I did touch my DeWalt last week and cut on it for a whole two minutes.. then switched over to that old Hawk

I don't know for sure... but I want to say the black anniversary edition came out around 2010-2012 ish.. then they just went to the solid black without the fancy gold anniversary badges.. and the green was run for quite a few years.. I think they started as purple? then black.. then green, then the anniversary black / gold.. then just black again.. Somewhere... Travis posted a timeline / history of the EX and then how they evolved into the new brands of recent and how the "NEW" Ex 21's are actually made in another factory or something like that? It gave the dates of the old purple saw then black then green etc etc etc.. I tried to search real quick in the reviews section and couldn't find it.. not sure what section that was posted in but it was posted a few months back..

Well, most all my work is just one sheet.. I do have a printer that prints 11 x 17 papers.. and what little I do with the larger stuff I do use the 3M spray for those.. but it's only about 2-4 times a year..so for the most part just the full sheet labels work for me.. and I spray that nasty stuff outside of the shop.. that over spray gets stuck to anything it lands on.. Maybe because I use the 3M 77 stuff.. just because it's also used on the auto-body industry for many things from gluing sandpapers to the sanding pads to holding emblems and moldings on the cars.. But I try my best not to use it..

You're right.. I was just in a hurry and said steel

I only have limited experience with my Excalibur.. My guess would be to look at the tension lever for wear ? not sure how much or quick they wear out... They are made much like the DeWalt and you have one of those.. so I would say look for things you would look for on a DeWalt.. The table tops on the Ex's I believe are painted and that paint wears off fairly quick.. I might have around 20 hours on my saw and the top looks like it would have 300 hours on it.. compared to a Hawk or DeWalt with the steel unpainted tables..

I don't use either spray or glue sticks so I have no idea.. I use full sheet self adhesive shipping labels.. I buy in bulk for a great price.. can't imagine how many cans of spray or how many glue sticks it'd take to glue 2000 sheets of paper.. but I'm betting more than $50 -75 worth that I get the labels for.. plus.. no mess.. no fuss just print, peel and stick..

My oldest moved out on his own just a month ago.. while I still have two at home.. I still feel sort of empty nested.. and he is only a couple hour drive away.. He is coming down today but just isn't the same with him gone..

Hoping all the fathers have a wonderful Fathers Day..

So if I understand correctly... you're putting several different styles and sizes of blades in a single tube? I suppose that would work for some folks.. I buy my blades by the gross and the whole gross won't fit into a tube.. so I typically put 3-4 dozen blades in at a time.. If this was even possible for me the only advantage I see is not having to have 30 tubes.. but then.. all 30 tubes are usually packed full of 3-4 dozen blades so it still wouldn't work.. Maybe a great idea for others.. just wouldn't work well for me I peel the sticker off the blade package that they come in and place it on my tubes, and or if no sticker and just plain paper I roll the paper up so the size etc. can be seen and stuff inside the tube...

That’s how I took it.