kmmcrafts

http://www.pswood.com/precision-ground-scroll-saw-blades/

Unless you cut all the letters out and glue to a backer I'd say you are right.. The scissors though... they look like it was designed to be cut out of the board because of the bridges.. other than the finger holes, LOL

Yeah I'm not sure we put much of a dent into the economy.. not yet anyway But I suppose we'll keep on trying.. If I was you all... I'd start stock piling lumber.. won't be too long and we'll have a shortage of Poplar and Cherry..

Thank you!

Should have around 3500 - 4000 ornaments inventoried by September.. and I also try to keep some of my clocks inventoried too.. keeps me out of trouble during the summer months.. then the winter months busy packing orders and trying to refill sold out items..

Thank you Kevin

Thank you for the tips..

Thank you! you'd be surprised at how fast one can build up some inventory on the ornaments by stack cutting etc..

This was in my thinking when I was given the idea of hanging them.. since I really not interested in finishing my floor and surrounding areas.. a gutter or drip pan of some sort would be a must have.. Thank you for sharing the info

Thank you,

Menards is the only local place i've found the numbered bits.. Not sure that all Menards carries them but if you have a local Menards and need the small numbered bits.. give them a try.. I always bought online.. but one day I broke the last bit I had and searched every store in town LOL.. Menards was my life saver that day LOL

Assume the way this is worded and the mention of Scroller. that this is Scroller LTD? I do not and will not deal with Scroller LTD.. before I read this.. and this just re-enforces my feelings about them.. I won't go into detail why I say this..

That had better be stated right on the pattern and should be stated in the description of the pattern before one has purchased it .. I purchase a lot of patterns solely to make thing to sell on my website.. sometimes put my own twist on them.. credit the artist in my online listings.. I see many many scroll sawers tweak another artist design.. and then call it their own... I have never seen a purchased pattern state that you could not sell the finished piece.. BUT... I have seen that on designers work that offer the pattern for free for a select group of people on a certain web site etc etc..

Grocery stores should have mineral oil.. baby oil is the same thing from what I've read.. except has the baby scent added to it.. You can buy beeswax and make your own mix of it. i use this on much of my work i do.. most of my stuff is finished with it as there is no dry time so to speak and also no smell.. I do my finishing in the winter with it right in my house while watching tv or whatever, lol You can buy the pre- made mix or make your own.. Toymakingplans.com has a video on how to make the mix.. Basically you put a 16oz bottle of mineral oil, a half cup of beeswax put it into a sauce pan and cook it on the stove until all is melted to a liquid.. Do use a cooking thermometer and don't heat it past 150F as it can cause a flash fire.. I suggest watching the video as they explain it better than I can. It's on Youtube I believe .. The mix when cooled down with be sort of a loose paste wax consistency I use an acid brush and brush it on.. let it set to soak in the oils and re-apply in area that soak it up.. then I heat it with a hair dryer to melt it down and then wipe off excess..

I've never used the Danish oil for a food type products and I don't really know what your best / safest finish is..I use Butcher Block oil for my cutting boards.. it has some sort of sealer type clear mixed in with it.. not sure what it is but if put on heavy it shows like a clear varnish or something.. I just wipe it on with a soft cloth.. and let it dry and lightly sand and ad another coat... Probably too difficult on a basket though.. Shellac is used in the food industry and supposed to be food safe.. or food grade mineral oil and beeswax mix works well to.. many of the oil type finishes ever really dry.. unless there is a sealer added to them.. which I believe Danish oil has..

You did a wonderful job on those for being so big as they are!!! Yes Brazilian Cherry... I was trying to think of the most difficult challenge.. while the pattern I did on the B- Cherry wasn't really a difficult one.. just the wood was being difficult.. and I was on a schedule to get it done.. Also some projects that are quite large I find to be difficult to make.. and that is why i always said I don't need a BIG saw... I don't plan to do large work.. even been asked many times to make something on the larger size and I turn the work away most times..

Watco oil? Watco is a brand.. I use Watch Danish oil.. but they make some others as well..so I think we need a little more info..

Yes, the tighter ( closer together ) those rings are in the lumber.. the less chance of it cupping / warping... When and if I buy lumber.. I specifically look for tighter grain like this if it's something that the board will be hanging around the shop for a few days.. but... free lumber is free lumber too.. and I don't get too picky with free, LOL

For me I sell online so I put the name of the designer at the bottom of each ads description. Sometimes I forget to do that.. but for the most part I try to keep it on there... not for my customers.. for the designer. and for other scrollers that run across my listing.. Though most don't read it.. I still get all kinds of other scroll sawers asking me where I got the pattern etc etc.. This also helps me sometimes in locating the file on my computer should I need to make more copies of the pattern.. I used to file my patterns by designer... Now I keep files on the type of pattern it is ie clock, ornament, etc. and I keep a file only that are ones I've cut. and a file of to-do's.. so in looking for a file I've sold out of would be in my cut items folder then sub categorized by what the item is.. ie desk clock, wall clock, ornaments, and etc etc.. Nothing more frustrating than having someone buy a made to order item that I've sold out of and not being able to find the patter, LOL

Forgot to mention about blade speed. I run my saws between 3/4 and 7/8 on the dial most of the time. Rarely run it any less than 3/4 of the way on the dial. For me... running the saw faster makes for easier blade control to stay on the lines, that’s just my style of cutting and my comfort zone. I find at the lower speeds I tend to push too hard on the feed rate and can at times flex the blade. Everyone will have different cut speeds and comfort zones. And as for the blade lasting longer at slower speed vrs faster speed. I’ve never experienced shorter blade life with blade speed too fast but have with going to slow because I’m pushing too hard on the feed and creating heat. Blades burning up because of blade speed? I don’t buy into it... it’s more about how you’re pushing feeding the lumber.

I don’t think what you are describing has anything to do with the speed. I think what you are experiencing is different densities of the wood. Cutting pine ( depending on the type of pine ) has quite a lot of different densities throughout the board from real soft easy cutting to very denser like real hard hardwood. Depending on how dry the wood is too. Pine has quite a lot of sticky sap and can gum up the blade if it’s still green. The more you cut timber the more you’ll lnotice this really happens on all solid timber but many do not knotice this especially with hardwoods because there isn’t nearly as much of a density variation like you get with some of the types of pine.

I don't do that from someones photo... but... I do buy patterns and make my own twist on the design... such as.. This bass fishing clock.. photo below.. It's Sue Meys pattern from the Fishing themed Christmas ornament patterns.. I enlarged the pattern.. took another clock pattern and inserted the enlarged bass ornament pattern in place of what was originally designed .. When I do this.. I still give credit to Sue and the other designer in this case I didn't know the other designer.. but regardless I do give credit and say it was modified by me.. I do this type of stuff all the time... but never from a photo of someone else's work.. at least without asking.. if I really want to cut it.. In fact.. I've asked several designers about combining patterns to make my own twist on them such as described above and all that I've talked to had no problem with it as long as I gave the credit..

Happen to me a couple years ago.. but my computer was fine.. what burned up was a back-up drive ( external )... I lost about 15,000 patterns that I had saved from 2005 - 20015.. Plus all my personal photos.. lucky that I had also backed up some ( very few ) onto disc.. Call me crazy now.. but I back up to new external drive, disc, and a zip drive memory stick.. as well as onto a second computer, LOL And.. two of the storage devices.. I keep in my shop... just in case my house was to be burnt down or something, LOL ... Still not sure that I wouldn't loose them.. but the odds are much more in favor of not loosing them that they was with just storing on my computer..

Here is the youtube video.. At the very beginning you'll see the table and the wire top

Actually I think the whole process is on video but not sure what Scott's youtube page is.. also might be on Steve Goods site.. But I believe Scott ade a drying rack out of wood and put chicken wire on it so it could dry on both sides.. He just uses mineral oil for the puzzles..