kmmcrafts

I’d like to make a end grain board, kind of wondered if you can run the end grain through the planers. That was partly why I’d like a sander. Beautiful work by the way!

Yeah , that was the first thing I looked at.. I believe it's the variable speed mechanism or the circuit board.. The motor shop i took it to is an awesome place.. If they can't fix it then it's junk.. LOL... I put a limit on how much I'd spend to repair it.. so they know.. Just hoping it's a cheap fix..

You know, I hadn't thought of that. I always thought that I'd like one of those for sanding the cutting boards down.. since I'm somewhat limited with the 13" wide thickness planner.. I've looked at the open end sanders where I could sand a very wide board.. Hmm.. I guess I better do a little research on these.. Quit a lot more money than the joiner.. but then more use's too..

I've read rave reviews over the years of the PSwood scroll saw.. and only recently read good reviews of their blades.. I buy my bandsaw blades from them.. Love the bandsaw blades.. but I don't think they are a PSwoods exclusive blade.. since they are the Timerwolf brand.. I think they are sold elsewhere.

Thanks guys, I don't know why he said he's having a hard time finding a bit.. I did a google after I asked here and found several sites selling 55mm bits.. including grizzly.. LOL

I have a friend trying to figure out what size bit he needs to fit a clock insert.. The mounting diameter is 55mm but Im not sure what that = in inch or what size bit he needs.. Thanks for anyone that can help.. I only deal with the small 1-7/16 clocks for the most part..

Are you sure they are sealed? I know you have a newer BM series..so it would be different than my old saws.. but mine doesn't have sealed bearings in it.. and neither did Randy's ( Hotshot ) BM series he bought.. had caged or shielded bearings.. My newer of the old saws had the same bearings as Randy's BM series.. I need to get that graphite stuff.. I've read a lot of good about it recently..

I was headed down a different path than scroll work and am planning to put together another web site with just Butcher blocks and maybe some kitchen utensils etc.. Will start a whole new name / brand of items.. Though some ( limited) amounts will still show up on my web site and etsy.. anyway.. I made these last week during some breaks from the scroll saw to ease the kinks in my neck from sitting at my saw making ornaments.. My jointer motor started slowing and acting erratically.. not too good for my new business venture.. or my old one.. I picked up my jointer at a garage sale 5-6 years ago for $25 Delta JS60? or something like that.. Took to the motor shop and they thought maybe it was something with the variable speed mechanism.. but they are 2-3 weeks out.. If I need a new machine, what would you all say a good unit would be.. at some point.. I wouldn't mind having a large floor model.. but my budget isn't going to allow that at this time.. unless I come across a awesome craiglist or other used bargain that I cannot pass up.. Even with a bench top model.. I rarely find that bargain deal when i am in a rush to get something to put me back to work though.. but t will usually surface hours after I make a new purchase and no money left I think I can probably make the end grain boards without the jointer so am going to give that a whirl soon.. My table saw is basically junk and something that I saved from a scrap yard several years ago, put new bearings in the motor for $5 and been using it ever since.. but it's blade run out doesn't allow for very smooth accurate cuts.. so making these boards with table-saw only isn't feasible.. Anyway enjoy the photos.. also open for photography advice on taking pictures of cutting boards, LOL

Maybe alignment issues? I don't know Hegner saws so I can't say.. but of other saws I always had to adjust the blade tension set screws so the blade goes up & down straight and square.. if If you have a small square.. actually I've used anything flat and a straight edge.. even a credit card once just for a quick check.. but set it next the the blade and run a cycle up and down.. I rotate the motor on the hawk without turning it on.. but you can also set the speed as low as it goes.. watch for a gap in between the straight edge and the blade through the cycle... at a fast speed.. it looks like a wobble..

I wanna say the manual for my hawk suggest every 25 hours use? I don't remember.. 25 hours of use is a long run time if your doing a lot of stop go.. ( fretwork )... Making puzzles like Iggy does the saw might run for 15+ minutes straight.. so I guess you just have to guesstimate LOL

http://www.pswood.com/precision-ground-scroll-saw-blades/

Unless you cut all the letters out and glue to a backer I'd say you are right.. The scissors though... they look like it was designed to be cut out of the board because of the bridges.. other than the finger holes, LOL

Yeah I'm not sure we put much of a dent into the economy.. not yet anyway But I suppose we'll keep on trying.. If I was you all... I'd start stock piling lumber.. won't be too long and we'll have a shortage of Poplar and Cherry..

Thank you!

Should have around 3500 - 4000 ornaments inventoried by September.. and I also try to keep some of my clocks inventoried too.. keeps me out of trouble during the summer months.. then the winter months busy packing orders and trying to refill sold out items..

Thank you Kevin

Thank you for the tips..

Thank you! you'd be surprised at how fast one can build up some inventory on the ornaments by stack cutting etc..

This was in my thinking when I was given the idea of hanging them.. since I really not interested in finishing my floor and surrounding areas.. a gutter or drip pan of some sort would be a must have.. Thank you for sharing the info

Thank you,

Menards is the only local place i've found the numbered bits.. Not sure that all Menards carries them but if you have a local Menards and need the small numbered bits.. give them a try.. I always bought online.. but one day I broke the last bit I had and searched every store in town LOL.. Menards was my life saver that day LOL

Assume the way this is worded and the mention of Scroller. that this is Scroller LTD? I do not and will not deal with Scroller LTD.. before I read this.. and this just re-enforces my feelings about them.. I won't go into detail why I say this..

That had better be stated right on the pattern and should be stated in the description of the pattern before one has purchased it .. I purchase a lot of patterns solely to make thing to sell on my website.. sometimes put my own twist on them.. credit the artist in my online listings.. I see many many scroll sawers tweak another artist design.. and then call it their own... I have never seen a purchased pattern state that you could not sell the finished piece.. BUT... I have seen that on designers work that offer the pattern for free for a select group of people on a certain web site etc etc..

Grocery stores should have mineral oil.. baby oil is the same thing from what I've read.. except has the baby scent added to it.. You can buy beeswax and make your own mix of it. i use this on much of my work i do.. most of my stuff is finished with it as there is no dry time so to speak and also no smell.. I do my finishing in the winter with it right in my house while watching tv or whatever, lol You can buy the pre- made mix or make your own.. Toymakingplans.com has a video on how to make the mix.. Basically you put a 16oz bottle of mineral oil, a half cup of beeswax put it into a sauce pan and cook it on the stove until all is melted to a liquid.. Do use a cooking thermometer and don't heat it past 150F as it can cause a flash fire.. I suggest watching the video as they explain it better than I can. It's on Youtube I believe .. The mix when cooled down with be sort of a loose paste wax consistency I use an acid brush and brush it on.. let it set to soak in the oils and re-apply in area that soak it up.. then I heat it with a hair dryer to melt it down and then wipe off excess..

I've never used the Danish oil for a food type products and I don't really know what your best / safest finish is..I use Butcher Block oil for my cutting boards.. it has some sort of sealer type clear mixed in with it.. not sure what it is but if put on heavy it shows like a clear varnish or something.. I just wipe it on with a soft cloth.. and let it dry and lightly sand and ad another coat... Probably too difficult on a basket though.. Shellac is used in the food industry and supposed to be food safe.. or food grade mineral oil and beeswax mix works well to.. many of the oil type finishes ever really dry.. unless there is a sealer added to them.. which I believe Danish oil has..