kmmcrafts

I agree with Ray.. and I've been messing with inkscape since around 2008 ish.. Only started getting better at it because having a laser and CNC you can't just print a pattern or modify one by taping several pieces of paper together to create a custom pattern like I used to do back in the day. These machines do whatever the file / drawing shows.. no modifying it as you cut.. LOL so I'm slowly getting better with that program.. BTW.. I've had these machines since 2018 and still barely know that program even though I have to do it and figure it out.

Kind of what I was thinking too. Also I’m quite sure loc line has adapters to go from metal tubing to their plastic fittings. They are pretty versatile. Somewhere ( maybe eBay) I’ve seen these fittings sold individually.

I don't know what size these are in this kit but it shows two different threaded parts and one looks a lot like what you show here. I've bought pieces and parts of this stuff from here before so maybe do some looking. Also known as coolant hose for metal drills/lathes etc. so that might be another search term to use. https://www.grainger.com/product/6Y724?gucid=N:N:PS:Paid:GGL:CSM-2293:99F1R6:20501231&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAzoeuBhDqARIsAMdH14Ghe-brxtcqgwme5esjlHRkXt5xcAAFkvjYVd-ihU4pm762EcEcRssaAis8EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds Edit Oopps I guess I should have read better. Looks like you've already searched the parts but cannot find exact thread size.

I would imagine this would be a copyright / trademark issue to sell them

You could give it a try on some scraps suppose, Everyone learns differently.. and you have to do what you're comfortable with doing.. Starting out I didn't really have a choice for speeds so I had to learn to gauge the feed.. blade sizes also played a roll back then.. first starting out I was using blades that were probably smaller than what would be recommended as that slowed down the cutting until I learned to relax and not feed the wood too fast.. But eventually I learned that my feed rate is what makes the cutting fast or slow.. saw speed has nothing to do with how fast you cut.. well it does if you have the saw speed too slow.. but running saw fast you can control how fast you feed. If you find you're pushing to fast and flexing the blade maybe speed the saw up some and try again. A good way to see if you're pushing too hard is set up a camera to video your cutting. If you see the blade flexing a lot then you need to slow your feed rate or speed up the blade speed until you get to where you're not pushing through too fast. There is people out there that have been sawing longer than me that still run their saw on slow.. that's probably how they learned and what they got comfortable with.. Nothing wrong with going slow.. Learning on a saw where you don't have a choice to turn the speed down I feel like gives the person a different skill set than those that use the saw speed to gauge how fast they want to cut. At the end of the day.. it's not a race.. just do what you're comfortable doing.

Nothing wrong with that.. Everyone has a different pace that they like to scroll at. My very first saw was a old delta 2 speed saw and low was too slow.. so I learned to cut on the high setting which was like 1700 strokes per minute saw speed.. so I run my saws mostly at around 1500 SPM.. just how I learned to enjoy scrolling so that's how I continue to scroll. I feel like things would be a lot different had I learned on a different saw that had variable speed. When I did finally get a variable speed saw and ran it slow, I found that I was used to the saw going fast and that I would end up pushing the wood through too hard and flexing the blade etc.. now I'm just trained to go fast, LOL.. Not to mention I've also been at it for 20 years now and production style cutting for about 16 years.. so I have a bit of time at a saw... so running the saw fast and cutting fast is just what is natural for me.. Lots of people mistake it thinking I cut fast because I'm doing it as a business and feel the need to race the clock.. but I was sawing on high speed since the first or second day I learned to scroll saw.. 4-5 years before ever doing it as a business.. I do sort of think if everyone had to learn on a saw that only had a fast speed they'd learn to control the wood feeding into the blade better. Just because the saw is running fast doesn't necessarily mean you have to feed the wood fast. Most scroll saw videos I watch the people cutting are flexing the blade too much.. They need to speed the saw up and relax and let the blade do the cutting.. If the saw running fast make you "cut too fast then you're pushing the wood too hard" You don't have to speed up just because the saw is running faster you just have to learn to control how you feed the wood to the blade slower. In other words I think too many people rely on the variable speed of the saw to control their cut.. rather than learning how to control their feeding. I see lots of people turn up the saw speed on easy long straight cuts and then slow it down for fine detail cuts.. But everyone learns it different and no right or wrong way really.. just do what works for you and you are comfortable with.. Like Ray said.. It's not a race... Took me a long time to learn to be good at cutting because I had to learn how to control the wood based on a fast running saw..

Okay here is the listing I seen.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/386617494498

Been a while since I messed with 1/4" BBply without stack cutting etc.. just one off would cut slightly faster than cutting 2-3 or 4 of them.. I'd say it'd probably take me around 1 - 1:30 hours to drill, cut, sand and be ready for whatever finish I intend to apply. Add about 10 - 15 minutes to that if I'm cutting 2 of them. Or 4 of them at 1/8" thick which is what I mostly use these days. This is just a wild uneducated guess.. LOL Now.. If I lasered that it'd be about an hour but I can only cut 1/8" in one pass so if it was 1/4" then probably 2 hours.. LOL If I CNC routered that it'd be 2 days 5 hours and 45 minutes.. The 2 days and 5 hours is trying to figure out how to get the CNC to follow the pattern..

Welcome to the Village!! I have no idea where one could source parts for one of these old saws.. That being said... I seen one on eBay the other day that was a nice looking unit for as old as they are.. and it had the disc sander parts to it. Wasn't all that much money. I suspect if you did find a source for parts, they'd cost more than this saw I seen. I'll see if I can go find a link to it shortly.

I agree with RJ, You did very well on this!

It last a long time.. even all the waxing I do on my saws I'm still using the very first can I bought.. which was back around 2006. I've been seeing the bottom of the can for a few years now but it has some in the corners still, LOL. Probably have enough for another year or two. When I got word of them not making it anymore I picked up another can.. That should last me my lifetime.. There are some alternatives..

Beautiful work!! I have a few of my fathers old scroll sawn items.. One being a wedding hearts with my wife and I's name on it and our wedding date. However it fell off the wall a few too many times and I ended up having to make it from another type of wood that is more sturdy. He had made it from oak and it likes to break along the grain too easily. Anyway, I have to say the most favorite things I have that he made is Christmas ornaments.. Every year at Christmas time we decorate the tree and it's as if he is here in the room with us as we dig out the ornaments and hang them on the tree. The other things I have hang on the wall year round and I guess they sort of get forgotten about so to speak but when I get the ornaments out.. just a special time of the year and remembering those loved ones that are no longer with us.. Here is a photo of the hearts I mentioned.. NOT Mine.. this is one I made for someone but this is what I was talking about. They are somewhat fragile even though it's 3/4" thick wood..

This is the listing where I got the photo from. They seem to be parting out this saw and has a few other parts for it listed but not the pieces you need. You might try sending them a message and ask about the rubber pieces you need. https://www.ebay.com/itm/275569355730?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20211130125621%26meid%3D4daa0a688ba542a782410c8a177bb5fb%26pid%3D101465%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D293835338534%26itm%3D275569355730%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D3650466%26brand%3DDelta&_trksid=p3650466.c101465.m3507

For some reason the parts list are different in the link I posted above than the list that is in the parts manual. There was a type 1 and type 2 saw so that might be what's going on. I looked up a couple different parts manuals and one showed a part number 29 that he as talking about. The part is used in both the types but listed under a different reference number, The link I posted above shows the part as number 52 and another manual shows it as #21 and another as #29.. gotta love the part changes they did in the manuals back in the day.. and now days you get one manual for all saws of the same brand lumped into one manual and some of it is wrong, LOL Anyway it's just a square shaped rubber that fits / seals somewhat into the C channel and the arm protrudes through it. I believe it's purpose is to help keep dust from getting into the bearings. It probably wouldn't make any noise if he removed the rubber.. but I don't know that for sure.. it may also be a "cushion" for the arm as well.. If you look closely at the photo I posted I circled the rubber inserts that he is talking about. I think it's more of a dust shield than a cushion though and he could try removing them to see if it quits rattling.

I guess I never looked at all the terms of stamped, ground, and milled etc. I just buy a boatload of blades and try until I find what works best for what I make. Pegas MGT blades are my number 1 choice of blades. I've tried every blade brand that I came across and most of the style / configurations of those brands. Maybe William was back before I got on these forums boards. I don't recall the name.. I'm not sure who is selling the FD blades that you are referring too. I'm not aware of anyone selling FD blades here in scroll saw village. May have been but I don't recall that either. I do think someone helped Mike out by taking over until he finally ended up selling out to Wooden Teddy Bear.. but I can't think of who that was.

Yeah it is overkill but nothing wrong with taking pride in your investment of tools, cars and houses etc. and taking care of them either.. may be a waste of energy but I can say that whoever ends up with my tools when I'm gone they'll know they've been well cared for by looking at them.

Yes, I do know the Niqua blades is FD blades. I just did a little research and found that they use the term "Milled".. The ones they are talking about is the Ultra Reverse.. which was one of my go to blades however they are Milled / Ground differently as they still cut at a slight angle.. not quite as bad as the other blades but not as straight on as Pegas blades. Denny is a Pegas dealer and last I knew doesn't sell FD blades so I'm not sure he would have any info on FD blades. The MGT blades is the ones I buy from him and is my go to blade. The downside to the Olsen PGT blade that I mentioned before is the smallest size is a #5 and the blade ends are Thicker / Wider than the teeth are so you need a larger hole to get the ends to go through.. not great for finer detail stuff. Pegas are sort of that way too but not nearly as bad. That is the one thing I do use the FD blades for.. fine veining because they use the smallest hole possible as the blade ends are the same thickness from the front ( teeth side ) to the back of the blade.. The others are slightly larger ends.

Hmm, I thought all FD blades were stamped instead of ground. Now I went through some of what I thought were the more popular ones and none of them say anything about being ground or stamped.. how does one know which is which? What ones are ground? "Other Manufactures" state whether they are ground or stamped and that was a big selling point for those particular blades.. Never seen FD ever say anything either way.. so just assumed they was all stamped. I've used most all the styles of FD blades way back when and I don't recall using any that I didn't have to put a slight angle to my board as I feed into the blade.. I used to solely use FD blades until one day I found Olsen's PGT baldes.. I used those on and off for several years as I didn't care for having to feed the wood at a slight angle, doesn't bother me nearly as much these days as it did trying to learn and get good as scroll sawing. I used FD blades as that was the best I could find for certain types of projects.. Now I can stay on the line no matter what blade I use as I guess I've mastered the sawing portion.. I now pretty much only use Pegas MGT blades.. and now and then use FD-SR or FD-UR mainly because I have several that need used up and certain types of projects they work better for than the Pegas.. But still.. just curious what blades are PG? this is the first time I've read anything about the FD PG blade.

The purple saw is one of the better ones they made.. I think they were discontinued somewhere around 2000 - 2005 ish. I really don't know a lot about them other than back in the day the talk on the forums was these are one of the better made Excalibur saws. I'd say if it works it's probably worth $100 but I'm not sure if parts are still available for this one or not.. I'm thinking not.. but some parts I also think are shared with the saw they still make today, like the front rocker arms etc.. What to look for? I would hold the lower arm still with one hand and then use the other to move the upper arm up / down etc to get a feel for how much slop is in the bearings.. There should be some a fair amount but not like 1/4 inch or so.. Take a blade with and a piece of scrap and try running the saw and listen for knocking / grinding sounds as if a bad bearing or something.. I wish I could remember the model number to these.. I think maybe EX-21E or EX-30E.. If you get the model number you probably could download a manual. I think these are not variable speed as i think it's speed change is done via a belt pulley system sort of like a drill press. Maybe check condition of the belt if it's not a big process to access it. I think they might take a rope type belt but not 100% sure on that. That might be the hard part to find should you ever need one.

Okay so you need the cushion boots.. should be 3 of them and the one that is rattling is probably the front lower one? Stole this picture from a ebay listing. You might search eBay for your Delta Model 40-640. there is this person here that is selling parts from one.. you might try messaging him to see if he has these parts. I circled them in the red circles. Probably could make something too.

It looks great to me... if you do seal it up though, I would do a couple.. maybe more real light dusting coats to sort of seal it up before hitting it with a heavier coat.

Hi, Welcome to the village!! I would take the Bellows out and see if it still makes the noise.. I have a suspicion that isn't where the noise is coming from. Likely the rattle is the grommet part number 21 that if bad is common to make a rattle sound. Doesn't have to be there but if the rattle bothers you enough it's just a very small solid rubber maybe around 1/4 diameter and around 1/8 thick. Probably could use one of the small rubber or foam feet made for like drink coasters or furniture slider things since the part is no longer available. As for the bellows, you could use a CV axle boot and cut it down probably. You'd need a small one for like a small ATV quad or similar might be around the right size. I'm sure if you shop around you'd find something that'd work well. As Ray said, aquarium pumps work too. https://www.ereplacementparts.com/delta-40640-type-2034-scroll-saw-parts-c-3275_3505_14012.html

I think those Bosch blades are made by Olsen.. or at least some of them are.. Many brands are just rebranded Olsen blades. There used to be a Vermont Castings brand and those things was the worst blade I've ever seen. Not sure if they are still around or not..

There is a little rubber o-ring on those inserts.. You shouldn't use a petroleum type grease as it will make the o-ring swell up and also deteriorate. Might take a year or two but it will damage it. I use a dielectric grease or similar.. and you are very correct.. these inserts should be removed or at least looked at to make sure they spin freely.

Jane sent this to me in a PM a couple days ago, She got her saw back up and running. Yay! My saw is fixed !!! The threads at the bottom of the tilt knob had broken free of the original lock tite material because of age thus allowing the tension to go "wonky". Once I replentished the lock tite on both the upper and lower threads and had some awesome verbal help from "Midnight Scrollher" via telephone and video chat and the use of the digital square that came with the Seyco 21", the machine was adjusted and is in original condition. This lady has so many amazing, helpful videos on You Tube. Thank you everyone for your suggestions and support. If I could figure out how to post this on the website, I would. I have trouble navigating it.