kmmcrafts

If you get the seyco system hooked up then that should catch all the dust falling through those holes I would think. I'm probably the odd one here but when I had my shop vac hooked up to that port I loved it.. and the collection was the best I have used on it by far. However I have a big shop vac and the noise was just too much for me. The vacuum holds the wood down to the table was another thing that actually after using it for a few weeks I grew used to and liked.. if I could have got past that loud shop vac I'd have never bought the seyco system. What I really want to do is just build a manifold PVC pipe system to each saw like many have shown on here a be able to just swap the vac over to whatever machine I'm using. The seyco system doesn't work great in my opinion and I have it attached to the Excalibur, as it even a worst system on the Hawks. LOL

You spelled Chevrolet wrong, and engaged in doing repairs?

I looked them over back around 2008 before buying the DeWalt.. If I remember correctly you had to open up the bottom side panel to access the lower blade. Believe it was a hinged door type deal but still would be annoying to do blade changes, thought I'd likely just remove that door.. Maybe thinking of a different saw but I looked at a lot of low - mid level saws back then and am glad I went with the DeWalt. IF I were in the market for used saws knowing what I know about most brands I'd probably only consider a DeWalt and the EX,King,newer Jets styled like the EX, and Pegas like saws... and obviously the Hawk and Hegner... Hawk would have to be a Ultra or newer and the Hegner would have to have the front tension lever and quick clamp.. though the quick clamp is a fairly easy and somewhat reasonable priced add-on.. front tension lever is a easy add-on too I think but not necessarily cheap unless your getting a heck of a deal on the saw. Since the whole upper arm has to be replaced I think.

Don't know much about these old saws but seen this and thought it'd be neat to have something like it. If I had the space I'd probably buy it. Think this is the same seller that has been had this listed on and off for a couple years.. Price don't seem bad, but I don't know. https://saginaw.craigslist.org/tls/d/midland-foot-treadle-scroll-saw/7603086178.html

Unfortunately everyone has a different idea of quality.. and value.. As a seller on etsy I offer a full refund within 14 days if the item isn't what they were expecting. Lot's of sellers won't even accept returns and get all huffy puffy with a customer for complaining about quality of items etc.. rather than learning to improve quality from it. Because everyone's idea of quality is different I've always strived to give the best quality possible and best customer service. I cannot give the best price but they can know that if there is something wrong with the order it can be returned. Unfortunately not many sellers are like this and these sites ( etsy, ebay, and amazon ) have to implement a customer satisfaction money back guarantee that comes from every sellers pockets buy rising selling fees etc. to cover the cost of those type sellers.

I have not messed around too much with colors other than backers for portraits. This one here is flowers for spring time maybe? LOL.. The only other thing I do with colors is done on the laser so this one is all I got other than black backers.. Backer on this is just foam sheets

They say to use as big a bit as you can.. I'm certain I read that somewhere, LOL.. however if you're like me I typically need that small bit on every project at least once.. and lazy as I am I use the smallest bit recommended for a #5 blade I think it's a #58 bit? I know what bit tube I grab but not sure what the number is now, LOL.. anyway I'm too lazy to swap bits so I just use the small bit for all the holes.. But anyway, yes.. larger holes if possible does help a lot.

I say do it however is most convenient to you, I started sawing years ago and didn't have the option to top feed. I did learn to top feed when I had my DeWalt but to much muscle memory lends me back to bottom feeding.. just what I know better. As others have said, the blade teeth point down and tend to catch on the wood, if you're not careful you'll bend / break your blade.. with practice you'll figure it out.. how much practice? might be after ruining 2-3 blades or 2 - 3000 blades, LOL.. for me it was closer to the ladder of the two.

There is a adjustment screw to put more tension on the arm to hold it up. If you look at the back of the saw on the opposite side of the motor there is a screw with a large thin locking nut on it. You loosen that lock nut and turn the screw in until you get just enough resistance on it to hold the arm up.. move the arm up and down a few times to be sure it's where you want it then tighten that locking nut back up.. If your arm stays up most of the time you probably only need to move the screw in just slightly..

Kind of depends on how big the project is. Big projects are harder to do.. most stuff I do I can tilt the board up to see the holes and then guide the blade to the hole and lower the board down. I rarely have to bend down to see with this method.. as I said, big projects are harder to do and sometimes does require bending down to see.

It is a great reminder for all of us, and also we have a lot of newer members so I am glad you brought this up and as you mentioned, you knew it but didn't realize how quick it can happen etc.. This is the reason I set mine on fire and do a control burn.. even just setting them up outside to "dry" they should be watched over to be sure the wind doesn't carry them into the yard or a neighbors house etc.. I'd rather stand by a fire that I light and watch for 5 minutes than to get side tracked and forget about the rags drying out in my driveway or wherever..

Not just linseed oil does this.. all oil base finishes and most chemical finishes too.. motor oil and many other things are the same way.. As Dan said I use blue shop towels.. I set mine on fire when I'm done so it's a controlled burn rather than a wait and hope it doesn't catch fire when I'm not there.. I live in the middle of nowhere so I have a burn barrel just for doing this.. once done finishing they go in the barrel and get lit while standing there.

My brother sent this to me, I thought it was pretty interesting. Probably take some talent to get that wire bent just right to make it work. https://www.facebook.com/reel/1245252096030105?fs=e&s=m

No need to be sorry it's just an opinion of mine.. yours is different..

Also should mention that "some" paper types are coated and used as moisture barriers.... Maybe that is done so they don't have to spend resources to "finish" a piece to look "proper" to speed up production it's quicker to have a light coat of spray on the back and then cover it with a moisture barrier paper for a easier look on the eyes that see their poor quality. Either method has nothing really wrong with it so long as it's sealed up good enough to not warp etc. Some businesses or hobbyist pride themselves on the fine details while other pride themselves on production numbers and meeting halfway with quality vrs. price.. in either case I don't think a person doing a half *ss job should be trying to net the "high end" prices.

I really like this clock, I'm going to have to search for the pattern on here.. Beautiful work as always!!

Exactly, This has always been my experience with the free rough cut lumber that I get.. No way I would take lower priced wood ( Oak, or poplar for instance ) free like I do with this Walnut.. reason being, the lumber at my local lumber yard is planned and ready to use.. I don't know how other sawmills are around the country but my local ones have a dirt / dusty driveway and also where the lumber gets placed while waiting on the trucks to come pick it up. The log trucks come barreling in and the trucks coming to pick up the lumber as well. They stir up big clouds of dust.. that dust lands all over the rough cut timber and since it's rough cut you can never get the dust and grit out of it.. I've washed it off with a garden hose and a stiff brush and it still tears through my planner knives. Normally I can go a full year on planner knives but if I plane this rough cut stuff I'm lucky to get 50 boards through it without significantly damaging the knives to the point the planner won't hardly work. When my knives are starting to get dull on regular lumber I try to run as many rough cut boards through just enough to get them half way smooth so when I do need to clean up a board nicely later on it's not ruining a good set of knives. Also most times the lumber is fresh cut and really can't be used for a couple years so there is work involved in stickering ( stacking with air gaps between layers so air drying happens evenly) so I take up storage space out of the weather for two years before I can use it. In this case of Walnut I got it had been sitting in the lumber yard for 1 year so I probably will be able to use it mid summer this year. Like I said, I doubt people would really want to "buy and pay shipping" cost etc for this lumber unless I was to plane it down etc.. and that wear on my equipment and my time fussing with it I just don't think it's worth the effort for what very marginal profit if any I would make. Lots of folks say I suck on my post about the free Walnut lumber but they don't realize I really only saved this wood from turning into wood chips or campfire / wood burner firewood.. It's too nice for that but not too nice a deal that everyone makes it out to be. I do like getting it fresh cut from the mill better IF I have storage area to sticker it and air dry for a couple years because if i get it fresh off the mill it hasn't had dust collection time sitting out in the yard... however getting it fresh off the mill I have to stand there all day and pick the pieces out from the conveyor belt that is headed to the wood chipper and sort it off those belts with all the stuff that is really junk. That is a job in itself too and time away from actually scroll sawing or whatever, so like you say.. free isn't always worth it.

Bob took that thought right from me, LOL.. Typically a home hobbyist or very small business that cares about the reputation of the small business will make a higher quality product than a commercial company that is more worried about cost and time. A commercial company's bottom line is always about the money. A small owner operator business should be worried about quality and customer satisfaction.. and yes cost has to come into play as well but we should also not be trying to compete with mass produced items and their mass produced cost. This is why Handmade / Homemade typically can be priced higher than those China mass produced items.

Thank you!! This is great info to consider. I know I personally don't buy rough cut lumber.. IF I'm buying it I'm going to get lumber that's ready to use with the exception of if I need stuff that is less than 3/4" because I don't use a lot of solid wood that is smaller than 3/4.. so if I need smaller then I resaw and mill it to the size I need. That would be a lot of hassle for me to size up all the lumber in order to sell it online.. and what you said is exactly what I had thought.. I feel I'd have to mill it to size or sell it for almost nothing. Probably a whole lot quicker and way less hassle to sell the whole rough cut load locally to one person is what I'm thinking. I doubt I'd sell the stuff I don't have room for very fast anyway. I'm busy enough selling the craft items.. This wood might be easier to sell if I was interested in being a wood dealer or something.

Thanks for the info, does it come sealed in plastic or just packaged in a box and sent in the mail? The one time I ordered those real thin boards the boards were wrapped / sealed in plastic to help prevent them from cupping etc. This is why I have never really tried to sell some of the lumber I get because I'm not all that interested is spending hours sealing up wood etc.. If I can just cut some 24" pieces and throw them in a box & mail them out I might consider. But then I worry about the changes the wood might make going through the mailing system and the different areas of the world with different climates.. by the time the customer gets it it may not be usable and then I eat the cost of the whole deal..

For the most part I finish everything "after" it's glued and assembled etc. IF it's a wall hanging plaque with a backer and I have to finish it separately I use WeldBond glue which is supposed to stick to most surfaces.. never had a issue with them coming apart..

As many of you know I've acquired a fair amount of lumber, some people mentioned I should sell some of it online. I've never bought lumber online other than some very thin specialty exotics that was only 1/32" thick and only about 4" wide by maybe 15" long. My question is does anyone buy / sell rough cut lumber, and if so how large are the pieces and how does it come shipped? I'll likely just post this stuff I have on marketplace as it is. I would consider selling some online but my thoughts are most people aren't going to want rough cut and if they do it'd have to be long enough to be safe going through the planer. Not many would probably by rough cut since not everyone has a planer. I'm not all that interested in sizing / planning etc. Also if I was to plane and size it I would be concerned with cupping etc. during transport from one climate to another etc.

Good topic, I myself do finish "all" of the project the same.. I know the piece isn't seen by only the person that hangs it on the wall.. but to me it just doesn't make the piece seem cheapened up. Also if it is solid timber rather than ply, the wood will still breath and if only the front side is finished ( sealed ) the back side can and probably will breath so there is still a possibility of the piece warping / cupping... I'm not sure if it's overkill or not.. that's just my thinking process and what I do..

I found this photo on google search. Look closely at the front of the saw.. there is no white flip tension lever on top of the blade clamp like todays saws have on them. Then look just below the on/off switch and see the lever sticking out.. That is how the DeWalt saws tension the blade and how the early Excaliburs did. You slide the lever one way to tighten the blade and slide it back to release tension.. The farther you turn it the tighter you make the blade.. so it's variable tension unlike having to flip the lever all the way to lock it. Hope that makes sense to you.

No kidding? Dang I really suck then.. Now I know why you all say that. I've never bought much quantity of walnut because I knew it was pricey and most scroll projects I do doesn't look great made from walnut. I mostly use Cherry.. and I do buy it from a lumber store already edged, planed etc.. I just happen to need a piece of walnut for a special order a couple years ago and my brother hooked me up with some, then also told the other local mills I'm interested in walnut scraps.. now I'm overloaded in walnut. I put in a word about cherry.. I'm pretty sure I'll have plenty of it soon, and nowhere to put it cause I got all this walnut in my storage space, .. Surely this stuff I have is probably not considered decent because it does have areas with knots and splitting which is why it was rejected by the grade lumber buyers.. I think they require at least 6ft. long and also a certain width that is clear of knots and splits so it doesn't make the top grade. They are picky, it could be 5ft x 11.75 long and a perfect board but that 1/4" makes it a reject.. that's the kind of stuff I have here.. though some are also knots and splits.. great stuff for scroll sawing, cutting boards, and other small stuff where you can work around the bad spots. Heck some of this with the splitting is a dream for those that fill in splits etc with epoxy resin.