kmmcrafts

It's 50% BLO ( Boiled Linseed Oil ) and 50% Mineral Spirits which is almost the same thing as Watco Danish Oil.. Danish oil does have a bit of polyurethane and some dryers added to it for a bit ( supposedly ) more protection against the elements.. Both probably excellent for the intended purpose of the trivet.. If you have either already on hand.. Good luck with it, Maybe some pictures of the finished piece?

Maybe your heat gun works better than mine.. I have the cheapest one HF offered at the time.. low is hot enough to melt the wax.. but doesn't blow enough air to blow the melted wax out of the nooks and crannies. Put it on high and you can start a fire with it, LOL.. so in my case.. the hair drier work best for that job.. Just wish HF would sell hair dryers.. lots of weird looks at the bald guy in the beauty store buying a hair dryer.. SO with all the weird looks I went back to the hair spray.. That have a brand called "Big Sexy Hair".. so I bought that too.. at the register I mentioned I didn't know they had "big sexy hair in a can but I couldn't wait to try it and show the wife her new man with big sexy hair.. Everyone on the store was laughing for some reason.. and once I got home I realized that the big sexy hair was just pattern glue.. should have taken it back for faulse advertising as there was no hair in the can I got..LOL

When you get too much wax in the nooks and crannies use a hair dryer and melt it.. the air pressure from the hair dryer will blow the melted drips off the back side so have a paper towel down for easier cleanup.. I used to use this mix on all my clocks and ornaments.. hair dryer works well for that excess..

Just don't try peeing in it,

I'm not sure exactly what would be "the best" finish but, I will say I highly doubt a "top coat" finish would hold up without being damaged in some way. Top coat meaning clear sprays or clear coats.. I would think maybe the best option would be a oil type finish such as BLO or Danish oil etc.. I'm far from being any expert in finishing so maybe someone will add to what I have suggested..

Your experience is the same for me.. I've never had good results from any of the skip tooth blades.. Someone years ago suggested I use skip tooth on a project I was working on.. back then I was normally using FD-UR.. and I found that they did cut better for me the the skip tooth.. Now days I use mostly Pegas.. and mostly the #3.. For me the kerf of a #5 is that much more material to remove for the blade and many times making the cut go slower than just going through with the #3 and taking it slow as to not bow the blade.. I agree with Dan.. on the blade selection.. everyone has to find that blade that works for them.. The way the saw is set up makes a huge difference too.. when I first started using Pegas MFG blades I couldn't use them on my DeWalt but loved them in my Hawk.. I eventually got used to using them with whatever saw but at first on the DW they was a bit aggressive.. For these reasons.. In those topics of what blades to use.. I always suggest sample packs of each style blade.. I will say what my blade of choice is.. but always suggest sample packs..

I apologize for my response I made... Maybe I didn't read into it well enough. I'm glad you came back and responded so we know you're still here. We go through spells here where a newer person ask a vague question and then disappear.. Those many times can be consider spammers or fishers for info.. People take time to respond and you get no response back from them.. not even the little heart emoji things so IF a question is asked and then it seems a few days go by with no response I don't put in my answer.. because many times I'm probably responding to space. There is a emoji thing at the bottom of each post / reply it's a heart thing at the bottom.. click on it and there is a drop down menu you can choose different emoji icons, the purple one is a thank you.. using these can help people know you're still following the topic and haven't disappeared. Might help from getting smartass replies like mine.. Now for a better response.. now that I know you are looking for many various methods of sanding.. For flat work like portraits all the way down to small ornaments etc.. all being flat work.. I have a sanding matt that I use.. I buy the non-slip shelf liner stuff from the dollar stores it's in a roll and I fold it up to the size I need rather than cutting it to the size of my sanding work.. This gives it more cushion and anti slip power. Almost all my sanding is done with a 5" random orbital sander.. A variable speed one is a must so you can slow it down for delicate pieces. Honestly all my scroll work is flat work. I don't like sanding so I've not done much of the "shaping" type of scroll work. I do have a spindle sander for doing various sanding but it really don't get used hardly enough to justify the space it takes up in my shop, LOL

I use those quite a lot.. I get them at Harbor Freight for like $8-10 each.. They are more of a ball shape than a cone like yours unless you worn yours down like that.. I use it in my drill press though..

Exactly!!! and why I have not put in my 2cents yet.. maybe OP will not come back to respond either.. Also correct blade selection for said project can make the difference of "needing" to sand or not.. Saw dialed in with proper blade alignment also make a world of difference.. I rarely get fuzzies on the back... even with spiral blades.. I pre-sand all my work and rarely have to sand after finishing the project..

Blades showed up today, mail was quick as they were saying Saturday by the tracking number.. Nothing to do with PS Wood since they got them mailed out next day.. Not sure if I'll get a chance to try them until next week or not..

I also had to remove the screws and change up to the other set of holes.. I got frustrated trying to turn the motor with the screw driver.. I keep my table slicker than snot.. I used my mini square at the back side of the blade and turn the motor but my issue is I have my saw raised up in the back and I had a hard time getting the square not to slide around and down to the blade.. SO what I do is.. loosen those screws just barely enough to turn the motor. Turn the saws speed down to the lowest setting.. Run the saw on the slowest speed while turning the motor.. you can clearly see the blade doing the rocking motion.. might help to see it if you have a sheet of paper or something on the other side of the blade to help see it. The blade will kinda be blurred but turning the motor while running you can get it to look less and less or more blurred.. find the spot that looks the least blurred. Probably not the ideal way to get it perfect 90 to the table but it's pretty spot on going at it this way for me..

That's because squaring the blade to the table "starts with" centering the blade in the clamps first.. Or they can be off center but need to be in the same relative spot within the slot it sets in for both upper and lower clamps.. way off will cause issues. If one set screw is off center on one side and the other off on the opposite side you will never get a square blade via the square anyway.. This can also shorten blade life.. as the blade may be rubbing the sides of the board particularly with the bottom clamp as that one is closer, there is a lot of unused blade at the top side.. I had a issue with breaking blades at about the table level.. inspecting a broke blade noticing it was discolored from the heat because of this.. Yet it was cutting square.. at the table level. just going through a crapload of blades as the heat is the blades enemy..

Yeah, it's a set screw or hex key.. whatever you want to call it, but you'll need a very small ( what size? I don't know or remember that good, LOL ) allen wrench or hex wrench. Doubt since this is a very old saw and since it's made in the USA that it'd be a metric one.. should be SAE.. The hex screw isn't very big and it's most likely recessed down in that hole a little.. It'll be on there pretty tight too if like mine was. I had to use a pair of pliers to grip the angled end of my wrench and twist with the pliers to get better leverage.. Also you'll want to soak it in some ( I like to use PB Blaster ) penetrating oil.. You'll probably need a pair of pliers once you get the set screw out.. hold the cam with the pliers and try freeing up the lever.. you'll have to work it back and fourth several times probably, then eventually you'll be able to pull the lever out while working it back and fourth.. IF they tell you the kit will work for your saw.. which I'm 99% sure it will.. and you have trouble with that set screw.. You could drill it out since you get a new cam and screw etc with the kit.. I think it even comes with a new lever maybe.. so worst case grind it away, LOL.. Hopefully you'll be able to get it to break loose though.. Gotta remember.. it's probably been on there for many years.. maybe since new..

Just buy the bandsaw.. you know you want it anyway, .. Tax write off for the business too..

Think the name is Carter?

That's interesting Ray, All the postings on here and FB etc. of those that use them or have tried them say they love the blades but also some say the high price deters them from using them as they aren't that much better than the Pegas.. I guess I'll see what my thoughts are once they show up.. Got an email this morning that they shipped out today via First Class Mail.. Showing arrival on Saturday..

I probably should do some videos on saw repairs for these.. IF I was running their business, I'd for sure have plenty of how to videos for using the saw, tuning the saw, and saw repairs.. These videos can really promote your business.. I have not seen any saw manufacture go very in depth with these things.. some will show the saws features etc.. but that's about it..

I wish I could remember how this is done for sure.. but I think you have to push the roll pin out first.. then I think there is a set screw that holds the "cam portion" to the lever as they are separate pieces and something has to hold the cam in place.. But I think once the roll pin is out and you take the front portion off the upper arm.. I think the cam will have a set screw to take loose and then the lever would come out. When I go back out to the shop later I'll see if I kept my old parts and look them over to be sure that is how it was assembled. When I got my kit Bushton did send me instruction sheet with it.. I hope they still do this as that would be helpful for you. I doubt I still have the sheet.. If I do I'd probably never find it anyway, LOL

Olsen make the precision ground blades in their PGT series blades.. they are awesome blades but have a draw back for me.. one being the smallest size is a #5 and second is the blade ends are larger than the rest of the blade so you have to have a pretty good size hole to drill which is fine on some projects but useless if doing veining type stuff.. I'm curious what I will get with these super sharps..

Yeah they are limited on sizes and styles.. nothing in a spiral yet that I seen.. I think I remember hearing the number 2 being like the number 3 in most blades.. I don't know for sure.. I ordered the number 2 and 5.. I mostly use number 3's and occasionally 5's in both Pegas MGT and FD-UR.. only spiral I use is a 2/0 FD - NS.. or comparable Olsen.. I find the Pegas spirals to be too brittle or ? and I seem to break many more of them than the others...

Yeah that blade has to be spot on square to the table or you'll have issues.. I have a small square but I like to use a 1- 1/2 in tall block of scrap wood.. I saw into it just enough to get the full blade in past the edge on both upper and lower part of the block. Then spin the block around to the back of the blade.. it should slide right into the slot you just cut.. write the number blade on the block.. keep it handy as a reference.. it's quick and easy way to check before starting a project or even in the middle of a project.. If it's not 100% square it won't easily fit in that slot..

I finally decided to order some of those expensive blades.. I've been going to try them now for 2-3 years.. I've heard a lot of folks say they're awesome blades.. some say they're good but not so good as to pay the high price for them.. I guess I'll have to post my experience not only with the blades but also for my experience with P.S. Wood.. though I've ordered bandsaw blades and a few other things from them with good experience..

Yes, just press out the roll pin and take the old parts off and reverse the procedure to install the new kit. They have been pretty good about putting on the webstore that things are out of stock.. and when they say they are out of stock they typically disable the add to cart button.. This is the kit you need and it's not showing out of stock.. https://stores.bushtonhawkstore.com/upper-blade-holder-bracket-conversion-kit/ I would still get confirmation from them to be sure it'll work on your saw. I'm pretty sure your saw is quite a lot older than my 220VS is.. I did the update 3-4 years ago but back then I was pretty sure she told me it'd work on any of the saws.. One thing you can do and they are the ones that told me this.. you can get by using the saw for a while by using a rubber band and wrap it around the upper arm to " hold " the tension lever in the tensioned position. When I bought my 220VS the previous owner had a piece of wire wrapped around it to hold it down, LOL.. I used it this way for nearly a year before ordering the update kit.

Actually I think the "super sharps " blades from P.S. Woods is made in the USA and their brand scroll saws are also USA made.. LOL I have not tried those super sharp blades yet.. Been wanting to give them a try.. I've heard they are awesome blades.. BUT.. pricey too, LOL

Olsen blades aren't too bad.. I started out sawing using them.. and still do for some projects.. Mainly spirals and the Mach speed..