oldhudson

That's a serious improvement in your power to weight ratio. You should have a great time this summer. I'm jealous.

Creative and well executed.

I think you have every right to be PO'd

Great use of off-cuts. I fail to understand why those who make toys don't make more fire trucks. As a kid I always thought they were fun to play with.

Excellent work.

I found this video and the info very useful. Thanks for providing clear and precise direction. It was a game changer for a recent project of mine.

Finally completed this project, but alas the fund raiser has been postponed until September, for the obvious reason. I can't ever remember completing a job for someone months ahead of schedule. The largest I could make the file on my old pc was 4" x 4". I took it to Kinko's and they made a 785% enlargement. I had two copies made. This was the first time i used shelf liner under a pattern. Wow - so easy. I ended up using 3/8" for the backer and the "F". The spacers were 1/2" pw. The feet were 2 x 4 off cuts. I cut the sides of the backer with a track saw and the corners with a jig saw. On the "F" everything but the eyes were cut with a jig saw. I scrolled the eyes. I think it turned out pretty good. Thanks for looking.

I guess if your comfortable and relaxed enough, it can be zen like.

You could use a circle cutting jig on a band saw and I'm pretty sure you can make one for a scroll saw. Regardless they look great!

I made a retractable castor system. It works but I'm not thrilled. Some of the 'wheel barrel' style others have used may be better for me. My shop is in two different rooms and I have to cross two thresholds and make a 90 degree turn at the door. I thought it best that the stand be on the floor and not wheels when in use. The lever system to raise the saw onto the wheels just doesn't work well. Pic 1: up on wheels. Pic 2: up on wheels with view of the lever and lock. Pic 3: lock released, machine on floor. Pic 4: view of how the lever operates. Feel free to have a good laugh.

Very clever with the adjustable tilt to the table. You should do a thread on that build.

Very useful making wooden gears.

I like it, but I'd be happy just to see the snow melt.

I thought it would be worthwhile to create a mock-up so the customer knew what it would look like. My sweetie crocheted the purse mock-up. This is 3" square. Even though the pattern got stretched horizontally, no idea what happened, the customer was really pleased.

Using a projector, never thought of that. Thks.

I do volunteer work for a local non-profit. Each year they have an event to raise funds. The event entitled Power of the Purse includes an auction. The director asked me to make a display of their logo to use as a centerpiece. See image. So the display will actually have a real purse hanging off the middle arm of the "F". SCALE: Looking at it - if the purse were say 12" long by 9" high it looks like the "F" would be about 24-26" and the backer would add another 4"-8". Does that make sense? MATERIALS & CUTTING: I envision cutting the "F" from 1/4" or 3/8" BBPW and the backer 3/8" or maybe 1/2". I thought I'd take the file to Kinko's and have the pattern enlarged to the size needed, glue it to the stock and cut with a jig saw. Sand and paint them individually. MOUNTING: Then I have to mount the "F" to the backer with a space so that the strap of the purse can be placed on the arm of the "F". So I need to make spacers that won't be too visible. I suppose painted that blue? So how much space should I allow, 1/4? 3/8? 1/2? And should I use wood for the spacers or maybe styrofoam? I'm looking for ideas and suggestions. As always thanks for reading!

That skydiver project is very creative.

A new tool and a road trip, sounds like a great day. Hope the sun is out and the roads are free of snow and ice.

Great project. If you'd just used the 48 contiguous (bordering each other directly), that would have been puzzle enough for many. Can't wait to see it finished. I've had making a map of my state on the To Do List for ages. Thanks for the inspiration.

I use one with a Mr. Heater attached directly to a 20 gal tank. if I'm forced to work on the car during the winter. I don't think the dust would be an issue, I'd worry more about the chemicals you might use and the flame. Like mineral spirits or turp.

My current project has a lot of 3/4" hardwood (cherry) in it. What style and brand would you suggest. I've tried Olson #5 and #9 skip tooth. Neither cut very well, really slow. Then I tried and #5 Olson Precision Ground. That worked a lot better, but I can't believe there isn't a better choice. Thanks for reading.

Excellent re-cycling. I was surprised with the glue-up. I've heard you can do that w/o clamps, but never knew anyone who did it. Well done!

I was trying to remember how to find that thread. I knew it had a ton of pics. Thanks Travis.

I've only used mdf core plywood for cabinet work e.g. the panels in a frame and panel construction. Because of all the dust created when sawing mdf, I'd avoid it for scroll work.

I suppose IF you're working on a portrait or a forest scene it's fine but if your trying to make a wooden gear clock there's a pretty good chance it won't run if fail to follow the pattern cutting the pallets or the escape wheel.