jerry1939

I agree with Wayne (usually do, he is a wise old bugger)! I use Inkscape. When deciding a font to use, I just type any long word. Without SELECTING the word, start at the top of the font selection & eyeball something that might work. If you "kinda" like that, jot the name of the font on a scratch paper. Keep moving down the selections & keep jotting down the "possibles" & make your final decision after narrowing it down to what you have on your scratch paper. Hopes this helps Friend.

I just checked "Pattern Gallery". 1 of the 2 (the latest one) is listed there, but not under the Word Art category, where I tried to put it. I wasn't aware that we couldn't post there ourselves, so YES that answered the question. Thank You Sir !!!

Travis. My old brain never did work well. On Jan. 27 & 30 I posted Word Art in "New Patterns". Tried to do the same in "Patterns - Word Art" but both ended up in "Gallery" not "Patterns - Word Art". Loaded by "Selecting" from desktop. Windows 7. It appears that this idiot doesn't understand your posting, "POST A LINK".

1. That's a lot for my old brain to memorize. 2. Do I need it in that order?

I Googled 1 for my Brother & Wife and another for my Widowed Sister. Much more complex than these. Traced them with the Bezier tool. I am not sawing now in our unheated Iowa garage & have another unfinished project to do first. I have no interest in doing Intarsia, but the plan is to try "fake intarsia". Will cut everything from 1/8 & 1/4" BB and spray paint the pieces. You don't want to know how many "bright ideas" I have failed at in my life. , but will give it a shot this spring/summer.

When removing (contact paper)(blue tape), I take a utility knife or my woodcarving knife and start at a point. If the pattern is such that what you are lifting off starts to look like a spider web, cut it in places, as often the part that is still attaché to the wood will be going in opposite. For me, the trick is first look for the fragile places. Lift the pattern from the point and remove towards a thicker part.

That Lady is a keeper for sure.

This is the first scroll saw project I did on my first saw, a $69 Menards model. York Minster Cathedral from Cherry Tree. Very happy with the plans. We gave the finished project to one of our sons for a House Warming gift. Re; How do you display it? I built a pedestal for it to sit on, creating a Grandfather Clock. He dusts it with a feather duster & that is not an issue for him. In retrospect, I should have left the clock out of it & designed something else for that space. Tried (& failed) with clocks from 2 different well known companies. Our son likes to show it off, but doesn't even bother with the clock part of it.

My Dad was drafted & wounded in WWI. At different times, each of us 3 sons were volunteer Army. Oldest brother is deceased. I made my surviving brother the Steve Good pattern, but you can add whatever you want to the front of it.

Scott, I feel sorry for you. In your kindness, you spelled out the facts that applied to you. You have probably made more puzzles than everyone else on this site combined. What you got in returned were comments from a lot of self proclaimed "experts" telling you what you should be doing differently. You have earned the right to be respected. It's sad to see this site go in that direction so quickly. jerry

Dan, old man, do you get headaches from trying to solve problems like this ?? ?? Great idea Friend. jerry

Rick. Would these help? http://www.printscreenmac.com/ https://colorlib.com/wp/print-screen-mac/

This is getting about as far off subject as possible. Ray, you are such a kind, helpful guy when someone needs/wants something. Thought I would let you know that our car needs washing.

I am still in the dark ages & using Windows 7. On the very upper right of the screen, second row down is a GEAR shape. R. click it & I get a drop down menu. First option is PRINT. When you get to print, carefully check which pages you want to print. Otherwise you could run out of ink & paper !! Another option would be Google "how do I print with a Mac". Also try typing this into You Tube. Hope this helps Friend. jerry

This is on Google. Maybe it will help one or more of you Nice People. http://tavmjong.free.fr/INKSCAPE/MANUAL/html/

Two words: no way

Wish I had an answer Friend, but I don't. For what it's worth, I buy BB here. http://www.sloanswoodshop.com/default.htm I ALWAYS buy "Good on both sides". For the time spent on a project, I would rather spend a little extra on the wood.

I use inscape, but there are others. It helped me to learn everything I could find about using the Bezier tool. When you click on it, it opens a set of options on top to make it act in various ways. It helped me to load someone else's pattern or picture and trace it for the practice. Delete it when finished, so that you are not stealing somebodies work. Watch you tube videos about "inkscape bezier". Have inkscape open at the same time. When they demonstrate some little thing, stop the video and practice that. Learn to EDIT-DUPLICATE-FLIP. For example, if you make 1 side of a picture frame, use the SELECTOR option, drag an imaginary box around your work, wait for the computer to tie it all together, duplicate it, flip horizontal and move the mirror image over. I wrote this for inkscape, because that is what I use, but others will work. Travis has excellent videos on this site that are great. Hopefully others will chime in with their thoughts. Good luck Friend.

Amen to all the above. Personally, I consider life to be too short to get my underwear in a knot over something trivial. jerry

Len, I had 3 surgeries to one eye years ago. Ended up with double vision also. Optometrist put a prism in one eyeglass that was as thick as the bottom of a Coke bottle. Worked OK but the frame wasn't designed to hold that thickness. When it was time for new glasses, I went to a different eye Dr. He said, "Heck I can split the numbers and put a prism on both sides". Made an unbelievable difference. Now I only have double vision when the glasses are off. I have a really nice magnifying lens & light above the saw. The prisms do not allow me to use that magnifier, however, I wear a flip down magnifying visor with no problem. PLEASE keep looking until you find an optometrist smart enough to put a prism in each side of your glasses. Double vision is correctable if the right person tries. jerry

I shut down every winter. Using inkscape to make Coat of Arms for my 2 siblings. Am 1 1/2 done with these 2 patterns. Not intarsia in the sense that you would expect. Have no desire to own various types of wood at my age. Will cut from 1/8 & 1/2 BB and paint the pieces with rattle cans.

Re Rattle can nozzles: I use 3M Super 77 adhesive. After turning the can over and clearing the nozzle, there is sometimes a buildup of adhesive around the hole. I cut that off with a utility knife, invert the can and give it 1 more quick burst. When an adhesive or paint can is empty, if the nozzle is still good, I throw it in a container to swap out later, if needed.

Nice idea. Thanks for the posting. I lay down a sheet of wax paper & squeeze rows of glue on it. Trowel it with a credit card. Drop the cut fretwork onto the paper, pick up the wood, rotate it slightly & drop it on the glue a 2nd time. Rarely have squeeze out. Throw away the wax paper and wipe the credit card with a paper towel. Just a different path to the same destination.

Great work. I first saw this type of "finish" in Mexico. Did some basement shelves like this. It seems that when selecting a board to purchase, the more knots the better. jerry

My Bad. A poor job of explaining. Originally, with the saw running & the blade tensioned. the blade appeared wider than it is, indicating some side to side movement. Perhaps the easiest way to envision this is to exaggerate the heck out of it. Envision 1 clamp set over 10, 20,........ ? degrees over from the other clamp. Now with the saw running, the blade would "look like" it is very thick when it is running. I dismantle my saw annually & grease it. It has a few really thin spacers that someone probably placed randomly side of a few bearings at the factory. To check yours, I would now suggest a different method. With a tensioned, stationary blade way down, set a credit card up against it & tape the card down. Raise the blade way up and see if there is now a gap. In the event that the blade now puts pressure against the blade, remove the tape & put the credit card against the blade when it is way up. Now lower the blade & check if there is a gap. I played with the set screws by trial and error until I had an identical clearance with the blade both up and down. Now the blade runs true, but it's not centered in the clamps.