Multifasited

The only thing ,I would suggest to make it better is to allow a little more clearance for the folded box ,when you shut it , may add a 1/8" inch shim to lower the notch ,screws are long enough ,just a minor tweek ! I got to get off this thing and goe to the shop and make another batch of spray can racks ,chilly start ,till the shop warms up! Later .Carl

Some Thing to try,Take all three to your next show ,display TWO ,pick the best one mark-it $45.00 right next to it set the second ,put a scratch on the bottom ,out of normal sight ,and mark $30.00 ,when asked the difference ,tell them of and show the flaw ,then see what happens .people love a bargain !!

Where do you find clamp screws with the hardened pivots on the ends? What size and thread would be best ?

I had another thought ,Depending on top loader or bottom loader use ,It looks like ,I could swap my clamps ,and put the worn one where th use is least used ,swapping would require swapping set screw and clamp knobs ,on both but would give me virgin threads on both and set screw could be lock tighted in worn threads and new threads on both clamps ,I would still reccomend anti-sieze ,I'll have to try that when mine wears . Just a thought . Whoops Dennis already posted It .

No snow here today but still d-- cold ,5 mins ,airs out the room ,and lets out some negitive vibes ,seems to heat better after air change . Please don't send me any Snow .

Space is a premium in the My house computor room aka: scroll shop . Normally ,I would do all spraying and such in the shop,this time of years ,going to the shop for a quickey ,is not my favorite thing to do ,TOO dam cold etc.etc. so I built a low tech, space saving, clutter free short term answer ,replaceable paper cover ,important if you spray glue ,Paint or finish no need to change ,close the door ,open the window ,ceiling fan takes care of the major fumes ,come back in 5 mins. close the window and I'm good to go ,can't get to the shop and back that fast ! Any way ,I thought might be handy for space concerns in your shop ! Not pretty but works great ,then it 's gone till next time !

I have not looked yet ,but the first question that poped into my head was ,will that complicate the set up going to that double angle ,you are right about the reduced size of the tips ,not leaving a lot of stock to resharpen in either direction ,I think were headed for one time use (forced replacement ) everything seems headed that way.

I really don't see a problem ,It'svery easy and straight forward ,The biggest issue was making it compact enough to not block table or having stuff in the way, THE octopus . I Finally ,I ended up w/2 slip joint 1 on arm 1 on lower manifold ,1 pivot bolt ,can strip upper arm in two minutes ,completely,the other was sizing the vac pick-up on top , The para-scope was only needed to allow for stack height adjustment ,simply and easily w/o alignment issues .If you want so help let me know ! Carl

Watching his video makes me feel like a six thumbed clutz.

I don't have your maching skills ,30 yrs as a field service engr.industial equip ,inj. molding and all accessories ,Built DIY sand flee,packaging machines ,L-sealer, shrink tunnel oven X-Y band saw table for resaw ,phneumatic clamps and presses ,I can appreciate you conversion mentality ,It's the journey keeps me motivated and looking forward to tommorrow ,love a chalenge .The more you do the more you can do ! I feel like the guy who said I have done so much with so little for so long I am beginning to think I can do just about anything with next to nothing ! Your a man after my own heart ! I modified my 788 to dust free ,material costs minimal time thats a different story ,I can't buy one like mine ,to me it's priceless .Good to find some one crazy as me !

Kevin ,If your interested ,go to the other forum ,SSW ,look up Carl E Jacobs Posts ,there a number of threads on the evolution of my saw over about 1 1/2 yrs .all the changes I have made, add on s redos to get to a dust free saw under about 3 catagories . The last big change was the para-scope vac you just saw in that pix so I can adjust for stack ht w/o loosing keyed return position ,swing out to clear everything and swings back exactly to keep vac lite and mag. in same position as before Sweet smooth and easy ,one simple easy move out and in .LOVE IT ,simple to do ,now that I got all the bugs out . You will see several others attemps ,not user friendly ,ungainly in the way ,and marjonally effective but better than nothing .

Grabbed bad pic's ,last time I tried to correct posted three times ,theres one there ,you can get the idea ,use your imagination to sizes you want etc. whoops !!

For those of you that do shows ,This was consistantly a good seller and attention getter .The procrastators nudge ,Mom's bought to put in the kitchen for thier teenagers ,or above the honey do list .I just whipped up some samples for your review ,not finished ,but you get the idea ,customize to your liking ,The is also a (blonde )type ! For all those times when you are told (as soon a I get around to it ! Here's you (Round tuit) or( Round 2-it )for the blondes in you life .I sold a bunch for $2.50 ea.

Some swear by , more it seems swear at spirals .I have close kin that HATE and refuse to eat tomatoes ,BUT they eat ketchup at every meal ,by the bottle full. I don't understand it ,but ,that's just the way it is ,I not selling anything ,only trying to help those who want it ,and not change or make light of anybodies personal firm beliefs . Sorry if I p.o.ed any body ! Life's too short !

Spirals are Unique ,they are aways cutting on 3 sides ,or a three sided circle at all times ,depending on pressure applied to those 3 sides is the cutting action ,all related to control of direction of pressure exerted .the wear of the blade is on the most used pressure point ,so least used portion is more agressive .they also have no back bone or strong side like straight blade ,making them flex the same in all direction ,adaquate tention is manditory on spirals ,they also have to exhaust saw dust from all three sides at all times . Speed of saw ,speed of feed ,direction of secondard pressure (leaning the cut)if you will directly effect cuts ,I love them and use them a lot ,I use as much tension as I can (feel) I lube them ,I steer the work to them only as fast as it can exhaust the saw dust .I change blades when cutting edge in one direction really slows ,but other 3 sides are still agressive . Because that is the side I use the most ,and as I back off the sharper side starts grabbing in a direction I don't want to go ,Best way to view it ,you have teeth on Four sides of a straight blade ,what will you do different to control it . Thats what you have only it's round and not like a + . The Worst fuzzies are caused by too much pressure causing blade bow ,which changes the cut angle of the blade at the cut ,There is no drift angle .no built in kerf pull ,to help you or hurt you ,you are the only controlling force ,feed rate speed and pressure ,or as John Wayne said" Windage and elevation" suggestion: take some scrap cut to the center w/ a spiral stop slowly gently move the scrap to the blade and watch how it reacts stop start in a different direction watch how it reacts ,do this in 8 different directions or angles ,including straight back ,now start in a new area of the scrap and use what you observed to control you cutting a design .The blade ,which ever kind or size is the boss ,you are just feeding it in the direction you want it to go,But it's still the boss ,and you steer to it's abilities and limitations. Just trying to explain what it took me years to realize .Putting in to words is even harder .Sorry to rant ,I get carried away !

Is that any thing like the 7 yr. itch ?

It has all been said and I agree !

If ,I were you ,I'd buy ,one and provide the percision it lacks ,and you would have a great tool ,using as a model should save ton's of TIME ,JMHO Your right about the the sparks ,it can throw ,I check each blade first and set for the worst tooth ,some blades lots of sparks . Make for slow process to remain the cool !

I have never seen him be wrong ,some times it took a while ! Then The LIGHT LIT!

You Sir: are a man after my own heart !!,Plan -the work -work the plan ,if the plan don't work ,scrap the plan ,keep the work ,subsitute a new plan ,been using that method all my life ,I thought I was the only one !

You have recieved some good advise ,I will tell you after you get you feet good and wet ,you will find that the same blades achieve different results in different hands ,as your indivual methods ,technic ,force, speed & handling of the work piece Develope . Those are the basic std. starting points ,but like it says on the package of the wonder diet (results may vary) and you will have you favorite for different jobs .Try them all ,enjoy the ride ,and Welcome !!

Your exactly right ,It does the job and for the price you can't go wrong ,I mounted both that and the chain saw sharper on 3/4 ply plates the chainsaw sharpener over a drawer that holds all the goodies ,store in a cabinet ,have spare blades and pull out and do 6 or more at a time .not worth the effort for one or two ,too much set up . I have sharpened a couple dozen in the last two years all carbide 3 different tpi ,paid for it self .both in convienece and cost ,I love my drilldoctors as well , except on real small sizes ,too hard to align ,do them by hand .my only beef is they won't do pilot points ,I love them for stainless steel and accuracy .all three well worth the money if you have the need !

That difinetly helps ,but depending especially on fret work and the blade you are using, even more so with spiral blades and the number of reclamps on a single blade ,finger oil get on ends quickly and recauses slipage problems as well as blade tip bending from constant reinsertion in tiny holes ,, either top or bottom loading ,causing mis alignment to clamp screw ,after a couple slips I tend to get agressive ,but thats just me ,so I do the next best thing and use anti sieze .so far so good !

Everybodies free to make their own decisions ,I have COPD ,saw dust maynot have caused it ,but I can assure you that talc fine dust especially from the top of the saw causes me problems ,that the larger stuff in the shop don't ,table saw ,bandsaw ,chopsaws ,routers ,planers & sanders down to 220 grit can not compare. My wife has health problems ,in order to be there for her and still shop work I moved my 788 into my computer room next to the den where she watches tv.I knew I had to make some drastic changes to my saw to be able to move into the house ,I had to made it dust free ,I had to make it compact ,and clean and neat possible , this computer is 5' away from my saw . noise had to be minimal .pictured is what I ended up with .tables and d.t.drill press saw cart are all on casters,saw is stationary ,no blower, keyed to ,single swing arm is the lite -mag -spot lite and upper vac pu. all swing left to totally clear saw table between cuts and blade changes .under table vac. is recess manifolded in the table ,single slip fit hose top and bottom ,goes to tee to part piece trap then thru the wall to 6hp shopvac.on covered porch. DIY 20 amp multi switch-recp. box mounted on f.right leg provide power to saw , vacc and d.t. drill press . Wall. circuits supply 3 double shop lite w/ day-lite bulbs . Plus I needed a chip chunk cut-out collection tray around the table to keep them off the floor and out from under the chair and cart wheels plus the mess of collecting them there. The last thing I built was a fein style small dust collector separator to go a head of the vac ,with the textured cone it appears to do a great job on the ultrafine dust vertually nothing is getting in to the sheetrock filter in the vac.The vac is on constantly when I'm scrolling ,the saw starts and stops while the vac still runs. The high amp draw of constant starts and stops with the saw causes the extra wear on the vac.motor and the higher power usage ,as well as cutouts and dust not getting clear to containment ,causing intermittent blockage and diminishing suckion .I started working on this a year before moving it to the house as there is so little done in this regard ,I have been tweeking amenities to stream line to what you see today . The only dust I ever see is the tiny amount caught between the pcs. and the cut out ,as soon as they are out the vac gets them too . That and the DIY lift arm have made this a pleasure to operate and work around with no complaints about noise or any thing else from wife or family . Like I said in the beginning it is what ever you want it to be ,I hated all masks and fogged up glasses , fans filters etc. By the way I am not selling a dam thing ,no videos ,prints ,kits .disc's so Relax enjoy what ever way you decide to handle or not handle the dust ! Lately there has been some interest in a better way ,This is mine ! If you have any serious questions ,PM me if you don't want to go on the thread .

Mine has a hardened sliptip cap on the clamp tightener knob screw ,w/o it it would be very problematic ,shortening on mine at least is not an option. Normall,any damage is to the actual clamp housing and not the screw!