Multifasited

So you did not shrink the blade hole size ,just raised the table level w/ a non slip pad and a slippery top ,that will change the blade wear up that much to new area.

Larry ,The hole is already bigger than the tap that made the threads ,From normal wear & or gauling ,or both ! The threads are .290 ,full depth of one side of the clamp ,the swivel tip on theclamp screw is .080 the max blade slot is .090 ,8or9 threads to work with max.

What size is the hole in them?

What size is the hole in them?

Old hudson ,Zero clearance ,is like zero tolerance ,It's a liberal fantasy ,Take some scotch tape leave your slot but narrow it ,narrow your blade hole to zero on 4 sides add a secon d layer ,just on your insert as you have to remove it for blade change .Now cut normally ,what ever you usually cut ,after 1/2 -1 hr .look at you zero hole ,what ever size it is now ,is as close to zero as you can get ,because of the blade bow to cause as you cut .some people favor the right some the left some push too hard and bow to one side and back as well, what ever it is will tell you alot about the way you cut push pull swing swivel .I seriously doubt any on on the forum can cut for an hour and be any where close to zero clearance . now you know what size hole to make ,if you bow more the blade will eat more ,It's a good mirror on how you really control the saw. Try it see if I'm right .

Pete, Unless your lower vac,pulls through a sealed manifold like mine the holes won't do much ,open side draw won't have any pulling effect on all those holes except what little falls through into the vac stream ,without a vac, breaker mine would scream like a banshi . A side draw only gets most of what the blade pulls down .But if it works it works ,I just don't know how!

I use milar sheets ,from my overhead projector supplies .thin flat and strong with no curve to over come .

Dick ,It will definitely help remove any oil or compressed saw dust ,multi swaping hole cuts adds oil off fingers as well as saw dust flour ,which gets mashed at clamp ups miniscule amounts build up ,another thing for spiral users is to straighten and align the twisted tips to paralel w ea.other not doing so asks for miss contact w/ last clamp set . Perk ,you are right ,it's all related some form of over tightening ,and your right about bigger knobs make that easier,thats why I stress positioning the knob any knob is the only way I know of to repeat consistantly ,(unless something changes the width of the blade ),parcial alignment ,twisted tip ,or mysterious build up ,so if that position changes ,you need to look and find out and correct the condition . It could be if you changed blades & you put in a different width blade from what you were using ,smaller or larger .but you will know ,before you start cutting ! Oiling the tip is not abad idea ,just make sure to get off the business end ! 10-4 on the tired part ! Carl

It is my firm belief ,positioning ,by what ever means you decide ,will assure proper and repeatable pressure on the clamp assembly ,with out the over tightening problem . Saves those fingers and hands a lot of grief .If you find a better or easier way let us know! Good luck Carl

Perk, No ,I use positioning to set the pressure ,by first tightening with the std factory knob ,then position my double tear drop flat to the arm of the saw and draw the pattern for the insert hole while in that position ,then cut it out and my dtd knob is in the flat position . Marking your oval knob will be harder to feel but stopping on your mark no extra pressure is ever used , The bent end is a combination effect , in my experience ,not getting blade fully back in the clamp ,catching only part of the blade while clamping ,will start the bending process ,or flattening ,once it starts It gets harder and harder to get all the way back with out flexing the blade to form a bow toward the front to get the tip in to the clamping tip fully ,Second ,once the slight bend in the tip occurs feeding process gets harder and because it is slightly bent already tends to jam on the hole or continue to bend at the weak spot .The other way of course in feeding thru hole toward center of a piece where space is narrowest . I am sure you use your saw more than I do but ,I still have the original clamps ,Now that I have said that they may go tommorrow .Mine a type 1 ,so it not new or even close ,but I firmly believe in anti-sieze compound ,too much experience in machine industry to not be . Another point I would strongly make is to( listen )to the saw .as I start the saw up ,whether swapping hole ,or changing blades ,any increase in the sound (almost a slight rattle sound) (prior to starting a cut )indicates ,for what ever reason you tension is loose ,stop and reset tention and I bet it quiets right down ,if you don't your cut will suffer ,bow ,twist ,change direction and not cut worth a dam (depending on how loose the tention is) (and it does not have be very loose to act up. Sorry for the long wind but trying to cover all the bases the best I can ! Carl

Welcome ,Always looking for new blood ,new ideas and lots of pictures ,jump in waters fine!

If every thing simple fails, take what left of you brushes to a motor shop ,they may have a replacement .

That sure makes it easier on the hands and fingers ,But very little force is needed ,I made mine double tear drop ,to keep as much table clearance as possible ,What I would suggest ,install your favorite blade ,what ever you use the most often tighten and test that it is tight ,this will give you the position of the factory lock screw in most used position ,a round knob ,no matter ,but double tear drop I want to face flat or straight ,in the business position ,it also gives me position to repeat at every blade swap in fret, with out having to look , You could mark a round knob with a cut line as an indicator , Then I mark the outline and cut to locked position is where I want it to be ,I've had it this way a couple yrs, no complaints .when I change to another size width blades I note where it points and reset there .May not be for everybody but works fine for me! But what ever you decide to do or not do ,I would still highly reccomend anti-sieze ,! When your going for a position the force problem is not much of an issue!

Yes!! on mine .Dewalt 788 ,you could pick up to .060 of an inch ,off setting the blade as well ,I I don't know what effect that would have on the rotation of a 1/4 -28 thread rotration as to changing the impacted area ,could not hurt ,my guestimate is .035 travel per thread ,My feeling after further thought is the spreading of the clamp to achieve the needed force is causeing the impact area position more than the stroke of the screw to impact .the spredding & flexing of the clamp holder itself ,just my opinion , but it seems reasonable to me!

The Biggest issue with threaded clamping devices ,is the female threaded ,portion is usually made out of a different material ,in this case the blade clamp housing ,than the male threaded clamp tightener , weather it is cast iron ,cast aluminum ,bronze or brass . The threads in the softer material recieves the extream forces of pressure and Friction at the last second of tightening ,when all clamping forces are at the same point within a few thousand's of each other (as in the case of scrollsaw blades ) the wear is always at the same point as the actual clamp spreads ,on tightening ,That pressure on impact starts to gaul the thread contact point in the softer metal ,causing a siezing condition ,impacting the surface and distorting it.. The harder metal in the screw recieves no such effect ,The anti-seize compound minimizes that effect allowing it to slide instead of gaul the surface extend it's life many times , The larger adjusting knob ,allows you to exert more clamp force with minimal effort ,It is helpful and handy to mark your add-on knob with a position mark ,till you get used to it ,However ,with-out the use anti-sieze compound will still be an issue ,THE MAIN ISSUE ,granted to a lesser Degree ,so you are left with a quandry ,Easier on the fingers and hands ,with better control .or tougher on them and still needing th control how much is enough ! We each have to decide what works best for us ,again there is no absolute answer ,But in either Way you chose ,I would definitely recomend anti-sieze compound it will drramatically help either way you decide is right for YOU!!

Thats the problem ,Thats all the room I have ,If I don't put the back after two ,threes on the floor and I can't roll my chair ,(In my shop your right ),Here, I don't have any place else ,kind of intimidating ,after being forced to put it back afew days ,I'm finding I actually like it as long as it's EASY . I actually thinking of adding a large tub ,like a camping dish tub to my 3 benches in the shop ,It would be nice to actually have some clear area on my benches to work ,IT's easyier to see and find them sticking up , than in a pile . .Pheu !! I never thought I'd say that !! No promises ,but I really think it would help !

Welcome perk ,from CEJ from the other side ,another fab. piece . Jump in the waters fine !!

Dam ,a wooden doiley ,Great fine cutting !

Dick you can see how HI TECH. I went ,here in the house I'm so crowded ,something had to give ,this was the cheapest and easiest I cound come up with.I got tired of getting up and down ,w/o something I could not find anything ,and there is no extra space to lay it down.

Only used blades should be at issue ,not bad this time of yr in most states ,in summer you not only have oil concerns ,but acid laden sweat . There is always issues ,I guess that's why Murphy is so famous ,when a gotsha occurs ! The organizer is fine and works really well ,But I won't put any mechanical tools like needle nose ,or hemostats in it for fear of sand particals getting in the the works ,so I built narrow another cady just for them !

Adorable !!

Your absolutely correct.each and every blade has design effects to achieve it's purpose ,primarily more or less agressive cutting for differing thickness of wood and or hardness ,as the ability to cut bigger bites (less teeth per inch) larger gullets are needed too !(capicity to remove larger waste faster) Blade get wider and deeper (wider for strength and increased angle of teeth)deeper to allow for increased size of gullet and maintain strenght against increased wood thickness forces.The set or increased angle of these blade .causes the blades to pull in the direction of that angle ,(newer designs) w/ reversed teeth counter some of that force by lessening the number of teeth pulling in that direction as well as smoothing the cut (less chipping ) all blades have individual caractoristics ,and trial and use of your selected blades (for your use and cutting style) ,are the determining factors in blade drift (or inherent pulling ) they all differ in thier own way ,Most scrollers who cut alot have certain blades they mainly use almost exclusively ,You will too ,may be different ,but it will be right for you and your cutting style .Dull blades actuall pull more than sharp blades as more force is applied usually causing blade to bow and bend ,Tension is another very important factor in control of any blade for the same reason (flex or bowing will cause any blade to pull more and be harder to control.There are guide lines as to blades selection and the are good starting points ,but ultimatly ,you personally will help or hurt the controlability of every blade ,by the way you control speed ,pressure & saw settings .Play with some scrap with different blades get the feel for the differences in the blades and the settings ,,YOU will like the results and make your best choices ! just remember Drift is real .Keep you table 90 Degrees to your work .sounds like a lot but you will master quickly if you want to!!

Doug ,Thats play sand . Best part about it holds at any angle ,so you get a lot in it and spread it out .

Space is something I don't have by my scrollsaw. I wanted something universal to handle all the misc.items . See what you think !

You can see I use an inhancer in one in some of my posts ,I love it ,sure easier on the old hand and fingers ,but your right they give you a lot more power ,so you don't apply much get it tight enough ,mine have ears ,so I know by position when to stop . Just stoped for lunch ,back to the shop !