Gonzo

Very nice piece. I like it a lot. On a side note; did anyone else look at this and get an optical illusion of the center portion looking like it was raised from the outer edge and look again and see the depth where the candle sits into it? God Bless! Spirithorse I saw the same illusion Spirithorse. I had to do a double take.

My go to also. Ya gotta try the MG 3's, 2/0's, and the 1's. As Tim the Toolman Taylor would say, "oh oh oh oh oh".

Trackman, You asked where to get Pegas MG blades. Try d&dsawbladesonline.com. I am very happy with their service. (And their price).

Nice job!! looks like fun. Put me on the list of those who will make this. One question though. After looking at the plans, how are you suppose to change the battery? Do you pull the clock insert out when it's time to change the battery?

I do the same thing but I cut up cardboard boxes, nice ones of course, and use that as a packing backer

I have not been to all 50 states but, Idaho, in my opinion, is a very beautiful state. But then, every state I've been in is beautiful.

After reading everyone's comments, I have to believe I may have a bad batch, for the simple reason that the UR#5's don't chatter, nor do any other blades. The "ping" is there, so I have to believe the tension is correct. I'm thinking I'll give Mikes/Wooden Teddy Bear a call and see what they have to say. Thanks again for everyone's input.

Thank you all for your help. Yep, I do know that the crimp has to be on top. As for the tension, I think they are tensioned tight enough because I do listen for the "ping". Hopefully not a bad batch. Which leads to another question about tensioning, which maybe should be another thread. If I need to readjust the tension on my EX, I just rotate the knob in the back, right? But if I do that, then the arm isn't parallel to the table, which in turn, won't give me a "true" up and down motion of the blade.

Merry Christmas, Having trouble with the FD UR 3 blades. Blades squeal/chatter big time. It doesn't matter what type of wood, thickness or speed. I've tried blades from different packs and still I had the squealing. UR #5's work fine. My saw is EX21. I am a huge fan of the Pegas modified geometry blades. But I really appreciate the service and speed that I get from Mikes/Wooden Teddy Bear. Looking for suggestions that any of you have. Thanks

Wow Dan! That is a neat looking clock. It looks like it would be fun to make. Was it?

Enjoyed looking at all the ornaments. Thank you for sharing

How quiet is it Steve?

I agree with Kevin, make your own. You can buy wood turners sanding kits from Rockler for 10 bucks when it's on sale, which is now. It is 1" rolls of five different grits. Cut strips to 3". 24 strips is what I make. Take two pieces of scrap wood, 1/4 x 1 x 3 inch. Tape them together. Using your scroll saw cut slots 1" long on each side, spaced 1/8" apart. Drill 1/4" hole in the middle. Now take 6 strips at a time and sandwich them between the jig you just made. Wrap it in packing tape. Using 1/4 drill bit, drill hole thru strips following the hole in the jig. Then, hop on the scroll saw and follow the slots that you made. (I use my dull blades doing this, no sense in wasting good blades). Slice open the jig and repeat process 3 more times. When finished take a 1/4 x 3 or 4 inch bolt, and cut off the head. Screw on a nut, then put on a washer, and then put the strips on, alternating up, down, crisscross, every which way. Add washer and nut. There you have a sanding mop for less than a buck. With 5 different grits you can have five different sanding mops. I hope this is clear enough for you. If not ask questions. It is really simple to make and it works surprisingly well. If I can do it, anyone can. And you can save lots of money. Plus, it gives me the satisfaction that it is something THAT I made. I think a lot of you know what I mean.

You can get them at dndhardwoodsonline.com. Or if you have a Woodcraft store locally, you can get them there.

I forgot to mention that I have used the FD ultra reverse on same projects.

I use the Pegas Modified Geometry #'s 3 and 5 for anything 1/2" or thicker. My experience is that the #5 is the cats meow for inch and a half work, i.e. Bird house ornaments.

One more vote for the foot switch. When I was using my DW788, the on/off switch went kaput. That's when I went to the foot switch. Will never scroll without one again.

For my compound cutting I use Pegas Modified Geometry #5

Just one coat of BLO Denny?

I love it! Dr Seuss is one of my favorite authors. Unfortunately, my little girl grew up. No more Dr Seuss books being read in this house.

Thanks for posting this Iggy! I have a '71 bug that I use for my gigs. Thanks for telling us where to buy the pattern(s)

Wow! Very impressive. What type of blade do you use in these?

Dang IPads

This is made from 1" walnut. It is finished with numerous coats of Danish oil. By far my favorite! Sold this one and am currently making another. Thank you for the pattern, Birchbark! Thought maybe you'd like to see it

I usually use blue masking tape also. Last night, being absent minded, I glued Birchbark's "Peace" pattern directly to 1" walnut. Oh crap, I thought. So I put clear packing tape over the pattern. Not a fan of it but what the heck. Yes, I could've just taken the pattern off, but had already started to drill entry holes