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Scrappile

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Everything posted by Scrappile

  1. Great project, well done.
  2. Is it just my computer, I click on the picture (either one) and the little box comes up and the little thingy m bob goes round and around but the picture never come up??
  3. Just wanted to come back and say, this is a quote from another post the Heppnerguy made: "Len, Paul is such a better scroller than am I and it was great to see all his amazing work." This thread right here proves Dick wrong. I have never scrolled anything as nice as what he is showing here.
  4. Dick that very beautiful and very well cut. Your enhancements really add to it.
  5. Bill make a good point here. I don't not use just one size/type blade on a portrait. I switch blade to use what I feel is best for a certain part of a portrait. I am getting to where I do this more and more. Same thing when drilling the holes to thread the blades through. I larger areas I use a larger size drill like a 1/16" or a #63 and in the real small area I will use a #68 or #70. I figure why make any harder to thread the blade then necessary. I have two scroll saws and often I have a spiral in one and a flat blade in the other and just switch saws for what I need.
  6. I use 1/4" mostly when I use BB. If I'm doing in wood other than the plywood I have used 1/2" mostly. So far, I've used popular, maple, black walnut and cherry. All worked well. What I am working on right now is around 3/8" redwood burl. It is very dry and soft and a real challenge. I started cutting and knew it was going to be difficult so I painted the back with epoxy thinned with acetone. Seems to be working very well. I use both spiral and flat blades. The largest blade I have used is a #1 mostly use the #2/0 FD-PS and in spiral the #3/0 FD-NS.
  7. I have never tried it, but probably. The reason I use CA glue is it dries in second, if you squirt it with activator, and you don't have to sit and hold the piece in place but for a very short time. I also use it if I have a very fragile piece that is barely hanging on. I will put some glue on the back to support it.
  8. I was going to say something about the last name, but though maybe you knew a Theresa Heppner. If not i didn't want to break the bad news to you. Nice cutting though.
  9. Interesting, Every model that Seyco has listed is temporary out of stock. May the factory that makes then has a problem.
  10. Those are really nice, should be very popular.
  11. Off to a great start. If pieces break out, it is possible (well not always, but often) to put them back in from the back, using CA glue and it is unnoticeable from the front.
  12. Very nice, Ralph. I know how fun it is to make thing from salvaged wood. It is a good thing.
  13. Those are very nicely done. You have it down. ..
  14. You get the same only not as bad with a band saw. It takes practice and the "drift" will very depending on type of wood, grain direction and size/type of blade. But you get the feel of it pretty quickly.
  15. Very nice cutting and finishing. Should be popular for the golfers and bring in some money.
  16. I don't know if it is necessary, but if you decide to do it, test it first on something with whatever they use to write with, make sure the poly doesn't make the ink run or anything to ruin it.
  17. Really a nice one, Jim. Love the way you framed it also.
  18. Danny, some good info on it here on the forum: http://www.scrollsawvillage.com/topic/12215-delta-40-694-saw-details-user-reviews/
  19. Kris, I think you really did a great job. All that grain in the wood I see him riding out of the mist, or out of the past. Mighty fine.
  20. I had a setup like that on my shop vacuum, not for the dust collection but vacuuming the floor and it worked great, Steve I wonder if you could jury rig a Dust Deputy into your system. That looks like an nice set up, be anxious to know how it really works and how long it would last. If it is good, it would be worth the price although I will want to figure out a better under the table setup for dust collection than the Ex has.
  21. Pretty cool.
  22. Really looks good. Hope he orders a lot from you.
  23. That is pretty cool. Person could cut out the insides while making it and make one as a bank.
  24. Know what you mean, Jerry, but it is what we have now days, and there are some real benefits also, like being able to have this forum and places to buy things other then what is in your local. I could only get junk blades locally. I learn what my fuzzy brain will accept and remain totally confused about what it will not accept.
  25. I just went to Mike's, no problem, no warning message Went to Wooden Teddy Bear looked at FD UR #5 at gross pricing 12 x $2.80 - $33.60. WTB is a little confusing and you were looking at price per dozen they are $3.50 per doz. if you buy 1 - 11 doz $3.50 X 12 = $42 If you look below where you went to order per doz it will have same heading except it say "gross pricing" or something like that, that is where you will see $2.80 per doz pricing. I think WTB could make there way of ordering somewhat less confusing, they could just copy Mike's Workshop method, they own it. If you ask how I know this, I went through the same thing last time I ordered blades. Wanted to buy from WTB because I thought Mike's would probably be discontinued after a while. Figured the price as you did and wondered, why would anyone buy from WTB when I could get them from Mike's so much cheaper, and even more confusing why would WTB let Mike's be so much cheaper, when they own both sites? Then I went back to WTB's site to recheck the price and figured out how they do it on the WTB site the second time I was there.
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