WayneMahler
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Everything posted by WayneMahler
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I stopped painting my backers. I use black felt or if I want to see the wood grain, I stain it with Ebony stain. Attach the artwork then apply finish to the whole piece.
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I fully agree with what Sam had to say. Travis is trying to make it a little clearer about applying the pressure to the blade. I use a #5-UR for 1/2 Oak. Something I really enjoy about the village. Someone asks and other jump in to help. What A great place.
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Always wondered about this.
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Dick just my luck . Always a day short.
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Going to have to look into this. So far I have relied on my cheaters but looks very helpful.
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I found on my EX-21 if the set screw backs into the clamp body you will bend the bottom of the blades. Look with a flash light and see if your set screw is out of the threaded part of the body. If not is a very easy and minor adjustment to make.
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Although I have my preferences I love this chart. Simple easy to read and understand. Valuable information. Thanks for posting
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I use E-6000 for saw tooth and D-Ring hangers. Dries quick and gives a strong bond.
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I like that. Looks like it is a great idea.
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I like FD-UR blades. May have a little clean up on the back but work great
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Sam People cut patterns from here and offer them for them for sale. Personally I give give credit to the the designer when I do this.
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You can make your own sanding mops. Just do a google search and it will come up with free plans. I don't use them and do my sanding by hand or a random orbital sander to remove the fuzzies on the back side.
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Looks like back of my spray adhesive board for patterns. Just a thought.
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Glad to hear it missed you with all the devastation. Wishing you great sales for you puzzles.
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I have been making sharp turns with #5 and #7 blades. All are FD-UR with not many issues. It has a lot to do about you how you approach it. Time and experimentation works very well. Meaning if you have room to make a secondary cut in thicker wood so you can turn into a corner and keep it sharp. Wished I had a better way to describe it.
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Way to go Ike. Love hearing stories like this.
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Really nice. Lots of great idea for display and presentation. Thanks for sharing
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Looks like it would be good back up saw, proving it's in good shape. Looking for one I can take to shows and not worry about. Moving the EX-21 is a real pain :(
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JT nice work. Love the way they look. Have you tried Klock-it ? They sell a bunch of clock inserts at reasonable prices. Not sure if they have what you want but worth the look at the website.
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Something that makes the village such a great place. Way to go Dick
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I normally use a #5 or #7 for compound cuts.
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You may want too look into some of the lathe setups for sanding, Seems they use a rectangular box to capture the sanding dust. Should be easy enough to adapt for this too.
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I have a jointer. I find using my table saw with a properly set up fence is faster and just as accurate. My table saw is setup so it is spot on which takes time but well worth the effort.
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I have been thinking about this most of the night. I would think laying out the rings in an order at the proper measurement should work. Seems to involve a lot a of math thought. Something when I get caught up that would be interesting to play with.
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Wrapping with tape is the only lubricant I ever use. Cutting through ply shortens blade life dramatically. The glue between the layers is the culprit. The smaller the blade size the less ability it has to shed the dust and debris from cutting which clogs it up much faster causing heat and dulling. Slowing the feed rate and blade speed does help a little but figure that blade life will be short. Try to use the largest blade you can get away with.
