OCtoolguy
-
Posts
10,477 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
28
Content Type
Store
Profiles
How-To & Articles
Scroll Saw Reviews
Clubs & Organizations
Clubs & Organizations International
Pattern Shop
Suppliers
Village University
Help Desk
Forums
Gallery
eBooks
Everything posted by OCtoolguy
-
I'm thinking of either buying or building a bench top router table. I made the mistake of buying the one from Harbor Freight and I must confess, I'm disappointed in the router that came with it. So, I'm going to either change out the router or buy/build a different table altogether. So, my question is, who has, what brand, router, bought, homemade, etc. You get the idea. Something new to roll around here. I've looked at a couple of the better brands and I just hate to spend the kind of money they are getting just for the table. I have a Dewalt combo router, plunge router and also an old Porter Cable router that I inherited from my Granddad. He bought it new back in the 50's and it's still going strong. It's downfall is 7/8 hp and 1/4" chuck. So, let the games begin.
-
The bottom line here is, unless you isolate your vac in a off-site location, there is no free lunch. I have a quiet saw (EX21) and a Fein vac. One of the early ones. My shop is 9 x 13. Enclosed, tiny. I still hear a lot of vac noise but I think it's primarily coming from the two suction points right at the saw. I don't know how to quiet them down unless I go to a larger diameter piping with larger nozzles. I have decent hearing but still wear hearing aids. I don't want to wear muffs. So, I will live with what I have until something better comes along. I may do some sort of enclosure for my vac/DD system but I will still have to deal with the nozzle noise. Like I said, no free lunch.
-
Simplified mechanism, no nylon screw to wear out. Just a better design and much more compact. JMHO.
-
Well, the walnut crystals arrived today. Less than 24 hours. The other stuff is coming from Canberra, way down under.
-
Your question has been talked about quite a bit here Gary. But, the long and short of it is, most of us who have changed over to the Pegas clamps have sung the accolades. A couple of folks have had negative experiences but not enough to say "don't buy them". I put them on my EX21 and what little bit of vibration I had, went away. And they are far superior to the factory clamping/tensioning mechanism. I bought mine from QTE.com in So. Cal.
-
Foredom brand Super Quiet Dust Collector
OCtoolguy replied to BillinNH's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Nice setup Dan. Thanks for the pics. -
Thanks Trackman, I was going to ask the same things. I'm very interested in the "cheap" laser.
-
Les, here's pics of what I ordered. The Cascamite is coming from somewhere either in the U.K. or Australia. Free shipping. The second is the crystals coming through Amazon. Both are small quantities so not a big deal.
-
Van Dyke walnut crystals and Fastform Cascamite resin powder. I found them under different names though. I didn't want to buy a 5 gallon bucket of the stuff.
-
I just found one ingredient in a small size on Amazon and one on eBay. Both are small enough that for the common user like me, it's worth the small investment. It will be interesting to try it.
-
I wonder, just for the sake of wonderment, if any of the glue mfgrs. have ever tried adding a dye to their products. If the glue I was going to use, along with my walnut sawdust, had a dark brown tint to it, that just might solve the problem. Hmmmmm! Maybe I'll experiment with some food coloring. Well, I did a google on the subject and here is an interesting video. It's from the U.K. but it shouldn't be all that much different here. Now, off to find the stuff to work with.
-
I know I have read here by some of you folks that you use glue and sawdust to do fill in and repair. I made a slight error today and need to fill a spot that I cut too close to the line. It's a very small glitch but it would not be something that I want to have my name on. I know I can fix it with some walnut sawdust and glue but my question is, what is the procedure so that I can still finish my project with danish oil and not have a glue spot jump out and be obvious? Does it come down to how much dust I use to how much glue? And is the regular woodworker's glue the right type of glue? I hate to appear ignorant here but I guess I am. So, I'm relying on you more experienced woodworkers to help me out. Thanks to all who participate.
-
I found a lazy-susan type turntable in the garden section of Home Depot for under $4. It's plastic and works great. The bearing is not plastic. I've been using it for years. I used to mess with bonsai plants and I could put one on the turntable and prune it from all angles very easily. So, it has seen it's share of outdoor weather and it just keeps on turnin'.
-
@rash-powder, you really stole that motor if you truly got it for $15. I have been searching/researching them today and the cheapest one I found was still $100 plus shipping. And I can't recall the last time I saw a "surplus" store anywhere near where I Iive. There used to be many but not anymore. They all had a ton of military stuff but I guess that stuff doesn't come home anymore either.
-
When searching on youtube for the videos you spoke of, what is the search criteria? I'm going to give it a try but if I fail, I thought maybe you could point the way. Thanks for the great tutorial/pictorial. Now, I have something else to do with my short time left on Earth.
-
Les, this topic has gone off the rails. If you still haven't found the fonts you are looking for, try going to Steve Good's website/blog and check out his font files. That may solve your problem. I hope.
-
Well, maybe I misunderstood what his original request was all about. If that is the case, I apologize. By the way, a side note, I love the browser Opera that you put me onto. It has so many aspects that are better and more inclusive. I uninstalled both Mozilla Firefox and Chrome. Never to be used again. Thanks so much.
-
Jim, I just did a google search and it appears that it was you who posted the 3 scroll saw fonts that you use. They are called "scroll saw regular", "scroll saw 02" and "scroll saw 03". I'm not sure if you posted the .zip file but in the search they are in a .pdf file. Somehow, I got them. https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=65827 Ok, I read further in that same topic and found that the 3 fonts in question are from Steve Good and are in his font viewer or font list or something of that nature. Here is a link to the whole thread as it was written back in December of 2018.
-
If the pattern doesn't necessitate it, try using a larger bit. I use Pegas #5 but the projects that I am making allow me to use a 1/8" bit in most cases. No need for a tiny hole if you have the room to use a larger bit. I've never bent a blade inserting it.
-
I find that it's more difficult for me to release the lower clamp and then have to fumble around to reclamp it. Much easier to see and do it all above the table. I can certainly understand if you're doing a lot of fine fret work it might be easier to see the holes on top of the work but to have to work under the table to reclamp the blade each time would be much more difficult. But, I'm old so what do I know!
-
Scroll Saw Challenge - Boxes, Bowls, & Trays
OCtoolguy replied to Travis's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Thanks to all who posted on this topic. You all have done some great and beautiful work. I am now loaded with new ideas and information. Lots of links too. The Village is the BEST! -
I have an EX but still bottom feed. A habit that I can't seem to break.
-
They were posted by someone here on the Village. I don't recall who. Maybe Rolf?
-
My "spray booth" is anywhere that the wind isn't blowing. Sometimes in my shop, sometimes outside my shop. I can only dream of a "spray booth".
-
That would be after the "thaw" though. Right?
