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OCtoolguy

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Everything posted by OCtoolguy

  1. OCtoolguy
    The "soft start" refers to a slight hesitation when you first hit the "go" switch. Whether a foot peddle or just the on/off switch, the saw doesn't run immediately. It has a slight hesitation. I could live with that but once it started and came up to the set speed, my saw would not run at that speed. It sort of hunted around that speed. I couldn't get used to it.
  2. OCtoolguy
    Sometimes I amaze myself. Lol!
  3. OCtoolguy
    I'm in awe. I follow a line, she follows a vision!.
  4. OCtoolguy
    Do a google for Gwinnette Woodworkers. They have a lot of youtube videos. Bob Brokaw did a 4 part series on servicing the bearings. Very good videos.
  5. OCtoolguy
    No Kevin. Mine is in a small plastic bottle with a flip spout. It's a clear yellowish oil like 3n1. Not a spray. This is the stuff. A gallon would service this entire forum group.
  6. OCtoolguy
    Thanks for your input here. I had a Hegner and was never happy with the way it ran. It did have the "soft start" that everybody talks about. My issue was that it would seem to "hunt" for the speed that I had the dial set at. I didn't have the electronic ability that you obviously have so I sold it. I'm still waiting for the right Hegner to come along and I will buy it. Now, I think I might know enough to repair that issue if it ever popped up. Thanks and good luck on your repair. Keep us all updated on how it goes.
  7. OCtoolguy
    Are any of you folks familiar with Howe's Oil? I used to sell it from my tool truck. I ended up with a couple of the sample bottles. 2 oz. or 4 oz. I don't recall. Anyway, the stuff is the best oil I've come across. It will dissolve rust and it's lubrication qualities are fantastic. I have been using it for years and I still have enough left to last me at least another lifetime. If you can find a local source for it, give it a try.
  8. OCtoolguy
    Dan, I've got the Dremel and have used it for some "light" sanding where I didn't want to exert too much pressure. I bought it primarily for the cutting blades that came with it. I have used them to great extent.
  9. OCtoolguy
    Thanks John. You do some great work.
  10. OCtoolguy
    That's the way I read it too. When I had my Hegner that is.
  11. OCtoolguy
    Back in 1965 I went through a 9 month course at the GM Training Center in Burbank, Ca. we learned of the chattering problems in posidrive differentials that were solved by squeezing a tube Molylube into the diffs. I hadn't thought about that in a very long time until now. That stuff is amazing. The slipperiest stuff I've ever come across. I agree that a tiny bit goes a very long way.
  12. OCtoolguy
    I looked at them. I liked the one from MicroMark but didn't like the price after buying it and having to add a transformer. Not sure about Proxxon. Interesting though. I was curious about "hacking" a cordless toothbrush. Anybody here done that?
  13. OCtoolguy
    Awesome job.
  14. OCtoolguy
    Thanks. They don't specify thickness. Only options are size. I'm looking for 1/4".
  15. OCtoolguy
    Can you get her contact info? I might place an order if she will ship. Thanks. That looks like just what the doctor ordered.
  16. OCtoolguy
    Find out her source and let us know. I've searched until my eyes fell out. Is she able to get 1/4" thickness? I'd love to give it a try.
  17. OCtoolguy
    Well, you've seen the votive holders that I have made. 4 of them so far. This is going to be very similar but 10 inches in diameter instead of 5. They each have 8 panels. This will require 20 of them. I'm still working out the math for the base and the top. I had an engineer helping me with drawings but his work picked up and he has been very busy. I'll soldier on though. I'm anxious to finish it so I can get on to other things.
  18. OCtoolguy
    That's when you gotta duct tape the reefer/freezer doors shut.
  19. OCtoolguy
    I like it! Thanks.
  20. OCtoolguy
    That's what I'm talking about. YEAH!
  21. OCtoolguy
    I'm beginning to understand how the tpi and the blade thickness are just about as important as the blade size. I guess it all has to work together. So far, all I've been interested in is what cuts the best. I do understand the ability of the kerf to dispel the sawdust and that becomes important when doing the compound cutting that I have been doing. So far, my major work has been in 3/4" x 1 1/2" mahogany. I find that I can get two of the pieces that I am doing out of one blade. It becomes pretty obvious when it's time to change blades. Just for the heck of it today, I tried a FD-UR #7 to see how it worked but I didn't get even one of the long wide cuts done and had to change back to my preferred Pegas #5 MGT. There just doesn't seem to be anything that works better for me. Here's a pic of what I'm cutting. I need 20 of these to make the table centerpiece that I'm working on.
  22. OCtoolguy
    I have promised not to get "political" here so I will refrain from adding my $.02.
  23. OCtoolguy
    Spent some of that cash you have laying around on a good 7500 watt genny.
  24. OCtoolguy
    Congrats on the new saw. If I lived a bit closer to you, I might take your EX off your hands just to bring it back to life. I love fixing stuff.
  25. OCtoolguy
    Thanks to all for your thoughts. I mostly agree with what you all have said. I started out using FD and Olsen because they were available. I have tried the very expensive PS Woods too. When I bought my EX, the previous owner had purchased a whole bunch of them so I got to try them without the expenditure. I can't say they are anything special. When Iggy posted about his finding the Pegas blades and how he loved them, I decided to give them a try. The rest is history. I have a whole bunch of blades that will more than likely never get used unless I just happen to run out of my favorite Pegas blades, the #5 MGT. My projects so far have been limited though so I might change my thinking if I ever get into doing fretwork. Right now, it's baskets, bowls, and boxes for me.
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