OCtoolguy
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Everything posted by OCtoolguy
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A question regarding "Aggressive" cutting!
OCtoolguy replied to OCtoolguy's topic in General Scroll Sawing
I have never paid too much attention to all the numbers that go along with all the different blades. I know that some blades are thinner than other of the same size and tpt. Maybe that's the difference. I'll have to start reading all the fine print I guess. I just know that FD blades, for me, have way too much drift and I don't want to have to steer a blade in order to follow the pattern lines. -
Are you speaking of William O Young? I must have missed that. I swear I heard him say that he would love to have his old saw back. And, I never realized he was in business anyway. Where did I go wrong? Did you watch his video on his review of the Excelsior? He made a very big point of downgrading the table. That's what I am talking about.
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I have read here and other places about "aggressiveness". I understand what the meaning is when it refers to how the saw cuts. The angle of the saw blade etc. But, what I don't understand is the term when it is referring to the blade itself. I see where many folks use FD blades because they say that the Pegas MGT blades are too aggressive. Can somebody explain exactly what that means. I've been using nothing but the Pegas blades and when I tried to use a FD blade, I found that it was uncontrollable because of the drift. I'd sure appreciate a good explanation of what folks are talking about.
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This comment is directed at the original poster. I just wanted to clear up something that you said regarding the "cheap" table on your Excelsior. I'm not sure what you got with your saw but on my Ex21, the table is made of a piece of flat steel with a silver/gray powder coated surface. I tested it with a magnet after your comment regarding your saw. If yours has an aluminum table, that would have to be one of the ways that they "cheaped out". And as far as the paint scratching and wearing off, I've not experienced that at all. I realize how unhappy you are with your saw and I completely understand that you want to sell it and be rid of it but I would greatly suggest that you keep your eyes open for a good used Ex16 or Ex21. I think you will find a great difference over what you have now.
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I too wanted to congratulate you on your new saw. I know I love my Ex21 and when I got it, I couldn't believe how smooth it is/was. I did the aggression adjustment and that made it even better. Keep us updated on how it goes. Wishing you all the best.
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I think too much is made of the short table. I have not noticed a problem with that. I went from a Dewalt 788 to the Ex21 and there is a difference in the table size but for me, not a big deal. Maybe if I get involved with larger projects but for now, I'm happy.
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I bought mine from Amazon. Lots to choose from. About $10.
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Is that anywhere near the Galvin rod? I know on a 50 Ford, they have a tendency to leak oil at times.
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I'm confused as to what the problem is. I'm not familiar with "thingy" so a picture is truly worth a thousand words.
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It is strange that they HIDE that fuse. I've never seen one done that way. Except for Christmas lights. They always put the fuse inside of the plug or the female receptacle. I wonder if one of those itty bitty fuses is the same. I'm going to open mine up one of these days just to see what fuse it takes. There is not one word about a replacement fuse in the owner's manual. With the exception of the parts list and parts breakdown.
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Well, I suppose it can't hurt anything. I just emailed the folks that I bought my set from. They are very near me. I asked about the lubing, the price of a new lever etc. I'm waiting for a reply.
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Well, then I guess it might not be a good idea. Maybe it would solve the problem then to do the synthetic grease job on all the bearings. Then it might not have the drag upon starting. If that saw sat unused for as long as he said, even in a warm setting, the factory grease probably set up.
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By the way, just to add more info to this subject, JT asked me to put a picture up of my saw. Well, I went out and did a closer inspection after that and after you found the fuse on your saw, I did a closer inspection of EX21. It was made in Canada by General in 2010. It too has the same fuse holder in the same place as yours. I will, at some point, remove the fuse just to see what type and size it is so that I can have a spare on hand. Luckily, I live where it never gets below 40 degrees and even that would be a rarity. I'm thinking seriously of taking my saw all apart and doing the synthetic grease job on all the bearings just to take away that drag when and if it ever does get cold. This has been a very interesting topic.
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I agree Jim. I was just thinking of a very small increment. If that fuse is a 2.5 amp, well maybe adding a couple more amps might help to get past a very cold machine trying to start up. I had a fuse one time that for some reason would blow. It was a circuit in one of our many cars. I think it might have been the wipers. I don't remember now. Anyway, it was a 7.5 amp. I replaced it with a 10 amp and never had the problem again. If I recall, the fuel pump was on the same circuit.
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Gary, I installed mine without the benefit of a video or any sort of instructions. I just keep mine blown out and clean. I don't think it's a good idea to have anything near the clamps that might collect dust so I just leave mine dry.
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Over the years, I have purchased many different refurbished items. I'm a firm believer that once something has been "remanufactured" the problems are rooted out and and solved. In the case of your saw, I think you might be condemning it because of a problem that you, the buyer, owner, user may have inadvertently caused. If it has been as cold as you say, and it sat unused for a time, the grease in all of the bearings got stiff and caused an overload. That light duty fuse couldn't take it and did it's job. You may never have another problem again. I would not be in a hurry to get rid of it just yet. You were pretty happy with it up to this point so why not just use it and see how it does in the future? Just my opinion here but so far it hasn't cost anything to fix and now you know what to look for. I sure wouldn't give up my EX over a 15 cent fuse.
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If it were me, I might be tempted to bump that fuse up a bit. 3.5 amps is pretty light. Maybe a 7.5 amp would keep this from happening. If I'm wrong, I welcome the criticism.
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I think Ray Seymore will enlighten us all when he gets the call.
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Well, I think the Excelsior and the King are knock-offs of the Excalibur. They appear to be identical. My EX is a 2010 model. Green. But the Excelsior doesn't seem to have a manual online.
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It's on their website. Seyco.com.
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I will tomorrow. But, I looked all around where the cord plugs in and there is no fuse holder that I could see. If it's there it must be disguised as a bolt or something.
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I just went out to my shop and looked at my EX21. I could see no fuse or fuse holder anywhere on it. I looked at the original manual that came with it and it does show a fuse right at the connector for the power cord. But, if there is a fuse, it must be inside. I guess if you remove the black plastic cover that goes all the way from the top to the bottom around the rear of the saw, it must be under there. The book says absolutely nothing regarding the replacement of the fuse. They must have wanted the owner to have to contact them for service one the warranty had expired. SAD!
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Thanks John, I had no idea that this person had any notariety of any sort. Now, I know who he is and of his many talents. By the way, it's time for you to start showing up a bit more often now.
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Call Seyco tomorrow. Best advice. Parts are not as expensive as Hawk or Hegner, I'm sure. The fuse is there to protect that board, isn't it?
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Well, the actual rheostat is on the arm by the off/on switch is why I asked. If it's something wrong on the board, that would be the expensive part.
