OCtoolguy

Kevin put me onto using the full page shipping labels and it does work great. I still use the see-through shelf liner on the wood but stick the label onto that. I never have a problem with pattern lift. If I have to leave the whole mess on the wood for an extended time, I might have to use a heat gun to remove it though. Not a big deal. A quick wash with MS takes care of the residue of which there isn't much.

I have a Wen, a cyclone system using a Fein vac, and a box fan with filter. I still wear a dust mask. The Dust Deputy/Fein would be my best suggestion as a starter. The Wen works well as an air cleaner but capturing most of the dust at the source is the best idea. I edit to add this, my shop is all of 9 x 13. In such a confined area, capturing the dust is imperative.

That seems to be a dilemma that many of us suffer from. I'd like to relocate. My wife says she's perfectly happy where we are and keeps throwing it in my face that we are 76 years old and have no business moving. I might be 76 but I refuse to believe it. I am wanting to move somewhere that has a much lower cost of living so we could afford to do some things before we perish. But, like you said,............

Great idea. Thanks.

Denny, are you going to service any parts for the Pegas saws? There has been some talk about bearings and sleeves. It would be nice to know where to get them. And if they will fit the green Excalibur saws. Any info at all would be appreciated.

Don't sell yourself short Les.

Aw shucks. Thanks.

No. Just luck.

Me too but I don't do do metal work.

Yes, I was pleasantly surprised. Thanks Dan.

No Kevin, I am very slow to finish anything. Takes me a month and a day or more. So far, my projects have been limited but I'm going to branch out soon. I have a lot that I want to make but my wife keeps having me make the same stuff for gifts. Now that I'm done with gifting, maybe I can get back to what I WANT to do. Oh, and the two woods are walnut and mahogany. Nothing but natural Danish oil and a light spray of shellac.

We went up the street last night to a little open house that our dear friends hosted. I made one of my votive candle holders for her a while back and she proudly displayed it in her home. I had to take a picture to share with you all so you can see what it is that I work on. I hope you like it as much as she does. And as much as I do making them. I can't take credit for the wall sconce. She had that. But, now I'm looking for a pattern to make some of them. I'm going to try to design something but if any of you have a pattern that is similar, please forward it to me. If I have to pay for it, so be it. If it's the right pattern, I'll gladly buy it. Thanks.

Special orders are a whole different thing Kevin. I used to get money up front for them. But for an item that is usually in inventory NO. Your nitpicking here. If a company manufactures something that has parts that are destined to wear out, they have some obligation to make/stock those parts for a reasonable time. I think 10 years should be the norm. An estimate should be arrived at in the beginning and those parts should be produced at that time. I agree with both you and JT on some points. You both are right. The bottom line here is that Bushton is not doing a good job of running the company.

No reputable company takes your money knowing they don't have what you ordered. Bad business for sure.

Geez, now you two have me wondering if I should use my Hawk or sell it. If I can't get parts, what good is it? I sure wouldn't own a car that couldn't be repaired so why a saw? I sure hope Bushton cares enough to remedy this situation.

So, now I have many choices to make. I'm mostly worried about "over-staining" the first application and have it too dark. I will cut some scraps and do some experimenting. I really appreciate all your help, suggestions and warnings. I'm going to try applying pre-stain first, then the Danish oil. If that proves to be too light, I'll try some oil based stain or gel stain. I realize that the edge will take stain differently so I guess it will be a two-pronged approach. The main parts/pieces of the project are walnut and mahogany and I usually just use natural Danish oil on them. This piece of BB plywood is only being used because of it's strength as opposed to making this one part out of 1/4" walnut. The piece in question is 9 1/4" in diameter x 3/8" outer wall thickness x 1/4" thick. Normally I would make it out of walnut but this time it's more than twice as wide in diameter. It has 1/4" notches cut around the inside wall ever 18 degrees. 20 notches in all. That makes this part VERY fragile. Hence the plywood. I'm flying by the seat of my pants on this one. Thanks again everybody for your help.

I have the pre-stain conditioner. I'll do as suggested and experiment. Unfortunately, it will be the end grain that will be exposed so it's gonna be interesting. I'll try to post pics when I get into it. Thanks all.

Very nice. More room than me.

Where'd ya find a barber's chair anyway?

I use a lot of the clear/natural Danish oil. I'll have to get some walnut. Thanks. That might just be the answer. Easy to use too.

Well, I'm not a distributor Denny but I'll say this, if the Pegas is half as good as my Ex21, that's the direction I'd go. As for the Hegner, they are bullet proof but also the most expensive. I had one and liked it except it had a problem with speed. Anyway, if you found a Hawk G4 at a price that you like, I'd jump on it too. They are a great saw even if the Bushton's aren't great about answering their phone. They are a small, family operated business so they are busy. Whatever you look at, just be sure to check it out closely. You can usually tell a lot by just the appearance. If it has a rusted table, chances are that it didn't have great care. You should be able to find a good used saw of most any brand for under $500. I watch Craigslist on a daily basis. So far, I've bought 4 used saws, sold two of them and now have two great saws with a total investment of $75.

You folks make it sound so easy. Why do I always mess it up? Should I use a prestain? I've got a whole quart of Minwax prestain that I have never opened. I've heard that it will make the stain not blotch as much. How long should I leave the stain on prior to wiping it off?

I must admit that I have never been good at finishing but staining is my true weak spot. I need to make a piece that requires some strength so I have decided to use 1/4" BB and try to stain it walnut colored to match the rest of the project. I know there is a "right" way to do this but before I screw it up, can anybody offer any suggestions? The piece in question will be mostly hidden but will be visible in a small way. I just want to try to make it so that it doesn't jump out. Thanks for any and all help.

When I bought my first used saw, it came with a bunch of blades that were all unidentified. I was going to do just as you are starting to do. It took me about a half hour of gauging with my caliper before I decided that life is too short. So, I just put them all in a tube for another day if I ever need a blade and the outcome is not important. I figure that with a $15/hour minimum wage, I'd rather work at McDonald's than try to identify all those blades. Good luck!

He's active on Facebook too. He and I have become very good friends even with 1500 miles between us. Great and humble guy.