OCtoolguy

We went up the street last night to a little open house that our dear friends hosted. I made one of my votive candle holders for her a while back and she proudly displayed it in her home. I had to take a picture to share with you all so you can see what it is that I work on. I hope you like it as much as she does. And as much as I do making them. I can't take credit for the wall sconce. She had that. But, now I'm looking for a pattern to make some of them. I'm going to try to design something but if any of you have a pattern that is similar, please forward it to me. If I have to pay for it, so be it. If it's the right pattern, I'll gladly buy it. Thanks.

Special orders are a whole different thing Kevin. I used to get money up front for them. But for an item that is usually in inventory NO. Your nitpicking here. If a company manufactures something that has parts that are destined to wear out, they have some obligation to make/stock those parts for a reasonable time. I think 10 years should be the norm. An estimate should be arrived at in the beginning and those parts should be produced at that time. I agree with both you and JT on some points. You both are right. The bottom line here is that Bushton is not doing a good job of running the company.

No reputable company takes your money knowing they don't have what you ordered. Bad business for sure.

Geez, now you two have me wondering if I should use my Hawk or sell it. If I can't get parts, what good is it? I sure wouldn't own a car that couldn't be repaired so why a saw? I sure hope Bushton cares enough to remedy this situation.

So, now I have many choices to make. I'm mostly worried about "over-staining" the first application and have it too dark. I will cut some scraps and do some experimenting. I really appreciate all your help, suggestions and warnings. I'm going to try applying pre-stain first, then the Danish oil. If that proves to be too light, I'll try some oil based stain or gel stain. I realize that the edge will take stain differently so I guess it will be a two-pronged approach. The main parts/pieces of the project are walnut and mahogany and I usually just use natural Danish oil on them. This piece of BB plywood is only being used because of it's strength as opposed to making this one part out of 1/4" walnut. The piece in question is 9 1/4" in diameter x 3/8" outer wall thickness x 1/4" thick. Normally I would make it out of walnut but this time it's more than twice as wide in diameter. It has 1/4" notches cut around the inside wall ever 18 degrees. 20 notches in all. That makes this part VERY fragile. Hence the plywood. I'm flying by the seat of my pants on this one. Thanks again everybody for your help.

I have the pre-stain conditioner. I'll do as suggested and experiment. Unfortunately, it will be the end grain that will be exposed so it's gonna be interesting. I'll try to post pics when I get into it. Thanks all.

Very nice. More room than me.

Where'd ya find a barber's chair anyway?

I use a lot of the clear/natural Danish oil. I'll have to get some walnut. Thanks. That might just be the answer. Easy to use too.

Well, I'm not a distributor Denny but I'll say this, if the Pegas is half as good as my Ex21, that's the direction I'd go. As for the Hegner, they are bullet proof but also the most expensive. I had one and liked it except it had a problem with speed. Anyway, if you found a Hawk G4 at a price that you like, I'd jump on it too. They are a great saw even if the Bushton's aren't great about answering their phone. They are a small, family operated business so they are busy. Whatever you look at, just be sure to check it out closely. You can usually tell a lot by just the appearance. If it has a rusted table, chances are that it didn't have great care. You should be able to find a good used saw of most any brand for under $500. I watch Craigslist on a daily basis. So far, I've bought 4 used saws, sold two of them and now have two great saws with a total investment of $75.

You folks make it sound so easy. Why do I always mess it up? Should I use a prestain? I've got a whole quart of Minwax prestain that I have never opened. I've heard that it will make the stain not blotch as much. How long should I leave the stain on prior to wiping it off?

I must admit that I have never been good at finishing but staining is my true weak spot. I need to make a piece that requires some strength so I have decided to use 1/4" BB and try to stain it walnut colored to match the rest of the project. I know there is a "right" way to do this but before I screw it up, can anybody offer any suggestions? The piece in question will be mostly hidden but will be visible in a small way. I just want to try to make it so that it doesn't jump out. Thanks for any and all help.

When I bought my first used saw, it came with a bunch of blades that were all unidentified. I was going to do just as you are starting to do. It took me about a half hour of gauging with my caliper before I decided that life is too short. So, I just put them all in a tube for another day if I ever need a blade and the outcome is not important. I figure that with a $15/hour minimum wage, I'd rather work at McDonald's than try to identify all those blades. Good luck!

He's active on Facebook too. He and I have become very good friends even with 1500 miles between us. Great and humble guy.

Dave, there is another fine scroller who lives in Kansas. His name is Brad and he goes by Scrollsaw703 here on the Village. You might hook up with him and see where you guys are in proximity to each other. That's great news. Always happy to have another scroller here. Keep us updated.

That's great news. Always happy to have another scroller here. Keep us updated.

Dave, I would think any wood with oil in it is going to present a problem with glue up. Do a google on it and see what you find out.

I love it. Anything functional is right my alley. Great pattern and a great job of making. Thanks.

I have read folks mentioning 3 inch blades on forums but have no idea where they are buying them. Have you tried googling them? It appears that they are available on Amazon and Ace Hardware.

I'm still waiting to find out who is going to be the replacement parts source for both the old and the new saws. The subject has recently come up regarding the bearings and sleeves for the green version of saws but nobody has any definitive info on that subject. I did email Ray at Seyco and got an email back to check in again after the holidays so I have to think they are closed for the next few days.

If I'm not being too nosy, can I ask what you had to pay for just the saw and shipping? Did they offer any kind of a deal?

Rolf, can you supply any info on your chair/stool that you use at the Hawk? If I decide to keep my Hawk, it might help to find the right chair. Everything at this point is dependent upon finding out what is happening with Bushton.

How much? Will they ship?

Not sure yet!

I've never done portraits but to me, they are like fretwork where you are constantly moving your saw blade from one hole to the next. If that is the case, the Pegas would be far faster and easier to work with. I know that Scrappile does a lot of fretwork on his saws but I'm not sure which one he uses primarily for fretwork. He has a Hegner and a Seyco. Maybe he'll answer on here when he sees this topic. For my 2 cents worth, I'd go with the Pegas. Price and ease of use would be my deciding points. But like I said, you have worked with the Hegner for many years so you are used to how it operates.