OCtoolguy

Jbrowning, I'd go collect aluminum cans or something. That is too good a deal to pass up. Figure out a way. Heck, you could even make money on it if you didn't want to keep it. I wish I was closer. I don't need it but I'd buy it anyway. Ray

Rocky, go for it. Read what was said above. It's more than likely just a worn rheostat. A few bucks at most. Ray

Yes for sure. Probably an easy fix. A great saw for a couple hundred bucks. I should send my son up there and buy it. Ray

That's a great idea and a very lucky find. What size diameter is your Loc-line? I'm using 3/4". I'm going to try 1/2" on the Hegner. Ray

Scroll saw. My wife and I were at the Orange Country fair a couple of years back. There was a man there doing scroll sawing on a home made saw that he powered with one foot. At any speed he wanted to within reason. As slow as possible for what he was doing. When I got interested in watching him, he explained what he was doing. Marquetry/inlay. He gave me his card and said I should attend one of his classes sometime if I was truly interested. So, that began my scroll saw hobby quest. His name is Ken Cowell and he does some beautiful work. He saws/planes/sands all of his veneers from exotic woods and sells them. His veneers are all pretty much less than .0625. Ray

This is an excellent tutorial Hotshot. Thanks for posting the link. I took a class in marquetry which is essentially the same thing. I really enjoyed it. Ray

I have no blood in my veins. I run totally on coffee. Without my coffee, I would never get going. And keep going. Luckily my wife is just like me. Gotta have coffee. Ray

Hey Hotshot, your link is broken. Try it again please. Ray

I'd be interested in seeing it. I don't see where there is any way to adjust the back of the table either up or down without filing or some other method. I hate to alter the parts of the saw to make adjustments. Ray

Thanks everybody who posted. I did get in touch with Wolfgang and he pretty much told me as much. I guess at the rock bottom of the RPM dial, there is more of a hesitation that as you rotate the dial upwards. I was just concerned that there might be something wrong. Ray

Quite a coincidence Scrappie, I just watched a video on youtube yesterday and he offered a freebie of a "widget". I asked him to email it to me and he did last night. A fun little project. Ray

Rocky, that's me. I'm going to use them for practice. I need lots of practice. Ray

Thanks guys. All good suggestions and I'll be doing pretty much what you all said. I will post some numbers tomorrow. He wrote on the pvc tubes but I have no idea whether they still correspond to what's in the tubes. When I got the saw, it had a big blade (9 maybe) mounted in it. Very coarse. His nephew who I bought the saw from said all he ever did with it was make toys for the kids. The blades are all pretty much covered with a slight coating of rust or corrosion. I'm going to try to clean them up before using them as they will leave rust marks on the wood. I'll cut something with them just to see if they are any good. I'm still getting over my "high" of owning a Hegner saw. I never dreamed I'd be able to afford one in this configuration. Even though it's old, it seems to have most all of the newest additions on it. I'm going to design a vac system for it next. Ray

I just bought a used Hegner saw and it came with a ton of blades in a carousel blade holder. The previous owner must have had some kind of blade identification that I don't recognize. The tubes that had labels from FD were empty and the tubes with a lot of blades had numbers written with felt marker but they don't seem to correspond to anything that I can I.D. Any suggestions on how to identify them? I can do some kind of tooth count and with a magnifier I might be able to figure out which ones are reverse but other than that, I don't have a clue. I want to give them a try but it would be nice to know what I'm trying. Ray

Me too at first. Then when I eliminated the foot pedal from the equation it was still there. I've been waiting for an email reply from Wolfgang at Advanced Machinery. I emailed him yesterday with a few questions but he must be busy as I have not heard back from him. Ray

I did notice that if I have the speed control all the way down at the lowest setting, the motor sort of hesitates and then starts hesitantly. But if I have it off the bottom and moving upward, then it is just a hesitation and go. I was thinking maybe the rheostat might either be dirty or have some corrosion inside of it. I have no idea how long my saw sat unused before I bought it. Things do get "dusty" when just sitting. Thanks guys. Ray

Thanks John, I was hoping that was normal but when watching videos on youtube, I couldn't tell Ray

I tried to search out this question but found nothing so I will pose it here. On the Hegner Multimax 18 that I just purchased, it seems to hesitate at start up. I tried it both with the foot pedal and without and it seems to do it more at the lowest speed or a bit faster. Once in the upper range, it seems to be more responsive. Is this normal? I will await your feedback before calling Wolfgang. So far, it's the only thing that I can find that I'm not too happy with so I'm hoping that it's an oddity and can be fixed. Thanks for your help, Ray

I'm hoping that I feel the same way once I get used to my "almost" new Hegner. Ray

For anybody who might have seen this post before I deleted it and rewrote it, please disregard it. I am more than embarrassed. I was trying to figure out why the blades wouldn't stay in the blade holders and it was like the blades were too short. I finally figured out what I was doing wrong. I didn't have the tension adjustment loose enough to allow the upper arm to go down further and allow me to catch more of the blade. Stupid!! Oh well, I never said I was bright. Ray

Thanks Jim. I got many questions answered in a short period of time. Of course, I'm not out in the shop because of you. HA! Ray

Excellent idea Dan. Thank you for posting it. And, I love your project too. What a great piece. I'll bet you could sell a ton of those if you were in the mind of a commercial venture. Ray

In reading the manual, it says to tighten the large black knob on top and then back it off one half turn. By golly, there is a lot to be said for reading the instructions. Something that most men do not do often. I must be the exception because I read everything. That's because many years ago, before I was married, my buddy and I set out to assemble a combination swing/slide set for the two sons of a lady I was dating. It was for Christmas. Anyway, he and I got to drinking beer and we got the darned thing almost all put together when we notice that the holes along the top rail were not centered along the rail. They were supposed to be on the lower side of the rail and we had them on the upper side. Partly because we hadn't read the instructions and partly because we had consumed waaaaay too much beer. Long story short, we had to disassemble the entire thing and start over. We ran out of beer but we got it together. NOW, I read all paper work. Ha! Sorry for the diatribe. Ray

I just realize that the "divot" is on the top of the blade holder directly underneath the screw that holds the blade holder in. I thought it was worn that way from having the screw down too tight. Then it came to me that Advanced mentioned that it was a "divot" and that would make sense. I have a total of 5 blade holders. I assume that the ones with the square screw are the lower ones. I have one extra square screw and the four pointed plastic knob. I'm starting to make sense of what I have. I made a couple of adjustments and now the blade stays put and doesn't fly out. I actually did some cutting with it. I will now attempt to understand the tensioning so I can not break blades. But, I have lot's to practice with. I understand now why I thought the blades might be too short. NOT! Anyway, it will be fun to figure it all out. Thanks again and keep it coming. Ray

Well, the saw belonged to a fellow who passed away and his nephew inherited it. He knows nothing about the saw. I did ask him about a cover and the owner's manual but he said they didn't come with it when he got it. I didn't know there was supposed to be a wrench. I did get a blade holder carousel that the owner had made that has a lot of spare blades in it along with the extra blade holders. I read on the website about the different sizes of holders and it said that the slots are visible to the eye as to which one is wider or narrower and that they mid size one started being marked with a divot let than 20 years ago. Since my saw is more than that old, I guess it's not going to be marked. I'm going to do the same thing as you with an engraver. As to the top blade holder being a "floater", I think that may be the problem. I noticed that the clamp screw with the spring under it is all the way down to where that blade holder can't float. I'll take care of that and see what happens. In messing with the blade and the holders, I noticed that a 5 inch blade doesn't really have any room to spare in length. It just barely reaches both clamps. Or else I'm doing something wrong. Thanks for all your help. I'll probably be picking your brain as well as the other Hegner owners. Ray