OCtoolguy

Wow! You hit on one heck of a deal. I have been watching Craigslist around here but so far nothing that good has come up. I did find my Fein vacuum there though. Got it for $17 like new. Ray

Let me explain my situation. I said I was lazy. What I should have said is, I live in a mobile home park. I have a nice little shop that has a ton of equipment that I have acquired but I try not to make too much obnoxious noise that would disturb my neighbors. The planer is an example of loud noise. So, I try to only use it on a day when most of my neighbors are either working or away from home. So, with that said, for a small project like this, I thought it would be better to try to buy the wood already planed to the thickness I want. I am going to give the BB ply more thought and maybe just use it instead. I do want to thank all of you for your advice and suggestions. If it all turns out ok, I'll post a picture of it. If not, well, you'll never know. Ray

Thanks for that info. I like the idea of using BB ply for the backer. I'll rethink the BB for the plaque too. Maybe 1/4" would be ok. I'm trying to get away from the sight of the ply's around the edge and the openings that will be cut out. This is my first project so I'm trying hard to get it right. It's going to be a gift if it turns out ok.

Thanks for that bit of advice. I was thinking that I might be able to fasten them together and do my cutting prior to glue up. That should work, right? Also, I do have a bandsaw and a planer but I'm lazy. Ray

I don't think you could use a biscuit on 1/4". At least I've never tried it. Maybe so. ????????????

I understand what you are saying. If I bought a 6" wide piece and cut it in half to make one 12" wide I would think that it would take finish pretty much the same, wouldn't it? I would flip one over to alternate the grain. Ray

I am going to try my hand at cutting a wall plaque that will be out of 1/4" wood for both the plaque and the backer board. It measures 8 1/2" x 11". I went to Lowes today to see if I could buy some poplar in that size but 6" width is the widest they sell. Where do you suggest I look for a board that wide? Will I have to do a glue up to get it? I don't want to use BB plywood if I can help it. I have some of that in 5/16" that I am practicing. Any sources that you all can send me to? Thanks for any help. Ray

The link is still good for me. Try putting your cursor in the middle the screen but not on the "play " arrow. Right click and do a copy and paste of the URL. Then open a new tab and insert the URL there and try it that way. Another way is to go to youtube and do a search of the title and see if you can find it there. Just suggestions. There may be something wrong with one of your settings on your end. Try this link. Ray the li

This is amazing. Such patience. I don't have it. I would like to say, in jest, that they should title this video, "How I spent my Christmas vacation". Ha! Ray

I tried to figure out a way to delete my comment because as I read on it was answered. Is there a way to delete?

I was taught as a Buick mechanic years ago that any spring that is kept under tension will eventually lose it's strength or take a set.

I do wish he would go a bit slower with his mouse moves but after watching it enough times, I catch on but like you very slowly. I'm going to pursue the rest of his vids now. I want to get proficient with Inkscape. I never seem to have the same version that is being shown in these tutorials though. I think I have the latest Inkscape now.

We aren't old, we are just "aged" like fine wine or scotch.

Les, I have been watching first video and I also downloaded the same fonts as Travis used in his tutorial just so I could do it the same as he did. It really is a great program and the "kerning" is really easy and so manageable. Isn't it great for us old guys to realize we still have gray matter that can be utilized?

Joe, it's pretty expensive to just buy all the necessary bearings and sleeves. I was going to do that too but I'm glad I didn't. Take your saw apart first and inspect the bearings/sleeves. I'll bet you won't find too many bad ones if any at all. I found none. But, I think the most important thing I did was get some good synthetic grease into all the bearings and anyplace that it might be beneficial. Also, tightening all the bearings and making sure that the main con rod bearing is tight is important. Unless your saw has seen a lot of use and never been serviced, I'll bet you won't find much wrong that can't be fixed by just going through it and doing what I suggested. If you were to decide to buy all the pieces you mentioned, you'd be looking at around $200. Now, if you have a fat wallet, well, go for it. Ray

I'm a computer junkie. I have a desktop and two laptops on my desk and another pc in my shop. You are right about learning the program though. It will be easier if I open up two or three computers all at the same time. I'll give that a try tomorrow. It's supposed to rain so it would be a great day to learn the program. Ray

I played around with it and got it to move the letters apart. Is that what you are trying to do? You want to change the spacing between the letters? There are boxes there that you have to change the settings. I'm also now watching the tutorials that Travis has put up on Inkscape. I think that is going to be the way to go. Lot's to learn but it's just a bit of fiddling. Give it a try. Ray

Thanks Paul. I knew I could count on you.

Hi, I just opened Inkscape and it seems that there will be a tremendous learning curve involved. Can you offer any advice to a new user? I can see that it is a very involved program with a ton of options. What do you suggest? Ray

I just googled and found this. This is for Open Office. If you need kerning only for selected parts of your text, follow these steps: Highlight the passages of your text for which kerning needs to be enabled. Select Format > Character. Select the Position tab. In the "Spacing" section, check the check box Pair kerning. For Word, do the same except go to the Format/Font/character Spacing............

Well, for all of you who have been following along with my vibration/noise problem, let me tell you this. I AM A VERY HAPPY CAMPER RIGHT NOW. I managed to take care of the knocking sound and after fixing the main drive bearing problem by center punching around the bearing hole on both sides, that bearing no longer floats around. I took the bearing seals off and packed the bearing full of synthetic grease. On reassembling everything, I made sure that I tightened all the screws a bit more this time around. I can now run the saw at any speed I choose and it doesn't shake anymore or knock. I did also find that the 3 feet of my saw stand are pounding on the wood floor of my shop. They are 4 x 4 and the whole stand is pretty heavy but I'm going to put carpet under them so muffle the pounding sound coming from them. All in all, a very productive day. Tomorrow, I am going to do some cutting. I need a ton of practice. I just have to find something to make that is more than just practice lines and circles. Oh happy me. Thanks to all of you who have helped me fix this thing. Now, I don't have to think about buying another saw. Ray

I looked at that 30" saw and it seems like you'd have to have the arms of a orangatang to use it. I'll be patient and wait for a good used EX21 to come around. Or a Hegner. Or whatever the next Cadillac of saws might be. I know I have to save a ton of water bottles and cans to get one. Ray

I see you and Runa and I are neighbors. Only a couple of hours apart.

I was just wondering if it's a knock off of the Excalibur.

Can you tell us what blade you are using and what you are trying to cut with it? If you are cutting something very thin with a very coarse blade that might cause it too.