OCtoolguy

Thanks for the help. I have just been chatting with Iguanadon. He recommends pretty much the same as both of you. He uses Olsen Mach Speed #3 reverse skiptooth. I don't have any of those but will soon purchase some. Ray

Hey Hawkeye, I like that little fan you have sitting on the bench. Can you give me some idea where you found it and approx. how much? I want one. I the box fan/furnace filter in place but I like that fan idea. Ray

I tried searching for the answer but I guess I didn't phrase it correctly. I'm still a novice so maybe this is a question that has been asked before. I'm sure it is. Anyway, I'm going to try my luck at making a set of nut bowls out of pine. If I succeed I'll try some exotic wood but for now, it's going to be out of what I have laying around. The pine is 3/4 inch thick and not really too hard. So, how do I go about choosing the right blade? I have a good selection of blades but I really don't know what tooth pattern or size to use. I'm thinking a number 5 but from there I'm lost. Can any of you offer your expertise here? I'd certainly appreciate it. Ray

I agree with you 100% JT, I was just trying to give an answer to the OP's question. I use a foot pedal with just the on/off option.

If I'm not mistaken, Harbor Freight has both kinds. I bought an on/off one but I can see why you might want to have one that regulates speed/power. Sort of like the foot pedal that sewing machines use.

I saw the video all about the Scrollnado and it sure looks like the answer for dust collection on the DW788. I am having a tough time trying to justify the price they are asking for it. Am I wrong here? It just seems like a lot of money for some plastic tubing and a plastic tee. What the general consensus on this thing? Ray

Moved

You referenced a "catalog". I subscribe to SSWC magazine. I haven't rec'd the latest issue. Is there a catalog that I'm missing out on?

I envy anybody who has left the state of Whackyfornia.

Ok, I made a mess of my post. I went back and reread the posts and now I have it right. The OP mentioned moving out of the state and I thought he meant Tennessee. I too live in So Cal and I hate everything except the weather. My wife says she "ain't moving anywhere" so I guess I'm stuck here. I love Tyler Texas and I love Dandridge, Tn. I'd be most happy in either place. And I'd probably have money left at the end of each month too. Darned expensive living here. But, we have such great weather. Can't say much for the politics though. Ray

I just went to Shiela's website and read the review on the Elipse mask. Very interesting. Anyway, I went to Amazon and found the one they offer under the name of Miller Electric. $25.99 plus free shipping. They also have a "no rush" shipping offer that will give my a $5 credit off my next purchase. So, $25.99 total. No tax, no shipping fee. Can't beat that. Thanks for the "heads up" on this one. I've been searching for a comfortable mask that doesn't fog up my glasses. Ray

Jerry1939, there are a ton of youtube tutorials if you check. I am learning a lot from them.

Bad experience huh?

Lucky2,how long ago was that crash and what did you do with the old hard drive. I've found that it takes a very horrendous computer crash to lose all your files. They more than likely are still on that old drive unless you reformatted it or burned it or ???????????? Ray

I just got Inkscape a week or two ago and it's the 0.92 you are referring to. I love it so far but I have nothing to compare it to. Why not just go for the update? What have you got to lose?

Thanks guys, I figured out the problem. She brought her blades over to my place and put one in my saw and had no problem with it. No breaky. But that still didn't explain why the Olsen blades didn't break in her saw. So, I went to her shop and took a look at what she was dealing with. It turns out, and she didn't tell me this until I got there, she told me that her blades also would bend when she would tighten them. I took one look and determined that her saw had never been correctly adjusted when it came out of the factory and she had no idea of that. The anvil screw was recessed about two turns back into the blade holder so when she would tighten the blade it would bend and then break. So, after adjusting the anvil and centering both top and bottom blade holders, all is good. But, it tells me that the Flying Dutchman blades are much harder than the Olsen blades. That's why they cut so good and last so long. Problem solved. So, now she will call them tomorrow and tell them what she found so they can rest easy about the rest of that batch. Thanks again folks, R

Ok, follow up. I just talked to my friend and she tells me it's always the top of the blade, the blade is a #1 28 tpi and it's only the Flying Dutchman blades that do it. So, I am going to try one in my saw to verify. I'll get back to you asap. R

Thanks for your reply Hotshot. She is what I would call a very good beginner. She started out with a cheapo saw and then bought a DW 788 like mine. I don't think she has used the saw long enough to have created a problem so if there is a problem it would have to have been with the saw from day one. I will have to check to know which end is giving her problems but I would think that it's either the bottom one or both. She is primarily cutting 1/8" birch plywood and making Christmas ornaments. She is dabbling in some small intarsia projects too. Nothing large or thick. The problem seemed to manifest itself with the purchase of the Flying Dutchman blades and I'm not certain of the blade size. They might have been smaller than the #5 that I posted. I took a guess on that. It's very possible that they are more in the */0 sizes. I'll have to find out. She is supposed to be bringing some of them over to check how they do in my saw. If ever there is going to be a clamp problem from wear, it would be in my very old type 1 saw that I purchased used. I have not had a problem with mine in any way once I took it all apart and lubed all the brgs. R

Hello all, I've been away for a while but am glad to be back. A close friend who is a gifted scroll sawer is having a problem with Flying Dutchman blades. She bought a bunch of them from The Wooden Teddy Bear. The blades are number 5 if I'm not mistaken and when she inserts the blade into the clamp the end snaps off. The saw is brand new (less than a year) and so she asked me if I ever have this problem. I said no and that she should call those folks and let them know. I think it's a bad batch of blades with bad heat treating. She bought some Olsen blades at Wood craft store and doesn't have the problem with them. Anyway, the people at Wooden Teddy Bear told her it's her saw and that the problem is the clamp screw. If that was the case, wouldn't she have the same problem with the Olsen blades? Anyway, I told her I would check with you folks because I swear I had read of someone else here that had the same problem. Feedback anybody? Please? Ray

I bought a used type 1 for $250. It had the stand (tubular) and light. I threw both away and built a great stand out of 4 x 4 stock and bought a Harbor Freight illuminated magnifier. I clamped the magnifier to my workbench that sits next to my saw so there is absolutely no vibration. I got the stand plans from the Scrollsaw Workshop site. So, for under $300 dollars I have a great saw. I also followed the video that shows how to replace/lube all the bearings and I feel that my saw is better than a brand new one. But, with that said, I'd buy the saw just to have it around. If one is good two has to be better. Ray

Last year I took a class from a guy who has been out at our local county fair. He peaked my interest so I had to get a saw and learn how to do this. After taking his class, he told all of us that a very good book was The Art of Marquetry (Schiffer Book for Woodworkers) Vandall Stevens, Craig So, I bought one from Amazon. It is the greatest book on the subject and must have been the guide for the class that I took. It's spot on to what I was taught. I have done a few small art projects since. Not hard at all once you learn all the little secrets. Ray

I have had Win 7 for over 5 years and know it pretty well. Can any of you folks who have done the upgrade to 10 give us any idea of what is changed? And how it is better than 7? I know I'd appreciate it. I have been holding off upgrading until there is feedback from the masses on how well it works. Hope to hear good news. Ray

Yes, I know. I've been very busy trying to get everything done that needed doing. We are getting ready to hit the road for a couple of months and I had a lot to do to make everything here "automatic" while we are gone. I'll get busy soon. Sorry. Ray

They are doing the same thing that they are in the process of doing at Woodcarving Illustrated. Evidently their sites were both hacked or had become very insecure. But, in the process of changing software to something more secure, they have run into problems with the integration of the new and old. The webmaster of the old software had written code into it that was not recognizable by the new software and they have had a devil of a time getting all the old stuff working with the new program. I have been in contact a few times with the crew that is trying hard to make it all work. In time, it will all be back up and running. In the meantime, I'm afraid that many of the old posters have become frustrated at not being able to use the new site and have fled. I sure hope they come back. I used to hang out at the carving site a lot and have learned a ton. Just like I'm doing now at this site. Ray

These saws are very easily repaired. There is a great video on how to do it and Rick's scrollsaw has a lot of info. Take your time and like someone suggested, take pictures as you go. It is well worth the effort. I had a terrible noise and vibration. I took it apart the first time and found a loose nut. While inside I took a look around and fixed or headed off a couple of things that might have gone out before they did. I wish you lived near me, I'd love to help you out. If you decide to give it a try, we are all here for you and will help as you move along. Ray