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NC Scroller

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Everything posted by NC Scroller

  1. A picture would help. Not all plywood is mdf core. Using a wood core plywood may help some but the inside cuts surfaces will never look exactly the same as the surface.
  2. I have cut a few picture puzzles in my day. I freehand it and I let the picture dictate where the cuts are. By that I mean I follow lines and shapes in the photo as much as I can. This is a picture of a Christmas Card I turned into a puzzle.
  3. Scroll saw blades are a disposable commodity like paper towels and sand paper. You wouldn't wash all your windows with one towel or try to sand all your projects with one sheet of sand paper. Most of us scrollers are cheap and tend to use blades well beyond their effective life. I as guilty as anyone else. Cutting BB the effective life of a blade is 20-30 minutes.
  4. Factory stand for me. Like you I have the 226VS.
  5. Most people won't accept and don't really appreciate the effort we put into our work.
  6. Thanks Scott for the updates. The table is just like my EX-21. When I first got it I thought it could use another inch up front but I don't notice it now. To me an attached light is a non issue. My eyes are to the point where a magnifier light is preferred. You will get there one day I am sure.
  7. As a fellow Lion I would be happy to donate one of my projects. Private message me. WE SERVE Scott
  8. BB might be your best bet. 1/4" solid wood is highly susceptible to warping. No matter which way you go stack cut at least 2 pieces.
  9. Ash and spalted maple should be good woods for segmentation projects. From my experience they take stain well.
  10. I get all mine from here but then again I drive and get it. I normally get 5-6 full sheets at one time. It is an 1.5 hours each way but I do it once or twice a year and combine it with something the wife wants to do.....shopping. I know they will break down sheets for free. Very nice folks. Might be worth a quick call. https://www.hardwoodstore.com/
  11. I would show the email to the local police department. They might want to handle the transaction for you.
  12. Blades cost me roughly 20-25 cents a piece. Seem like a lot of work and effort to save 10-13 cents.
  13. Yes. It is actually it is pretty simple. Here is a boxer plaque I did. It is a pattern by Judy Gale Roberts. The dark area around the mouth and eyes are walnut stain. The rest of the face is 1/4" plain maple plywood. I used a fine point wood burning tool to draw/burn around the area that is to be stained. You have to go deep enough to break top layer of wood fibers. A sharp razor knife will accomplish the same thing. Once you have your line I just used a small brush to apply the stain.
  14. If you are handy it should be fairly straightforward. Just be aware that if you work on the tension rod you void your warranty.
  15. Hey I am heading to Myrtle Beach later this month. Might swing by to check it out.....CONGRATS.
  16. With the tension released on mine the space between the two clamp screws is 4 1/4" . Yours should be close to that. Is the saw new or used? If new and the space is really 5 1/8" I would return it.
  17. Kevin your post got me to thinking. The knob is the most moveable when the arm is raised. So I added a rubber band just to create a little tension to it is not totally free to move. It is working for me. Simple and effective.
  18. I have an EX- 21 that has a white line on the knob. If yours does not then adjust it to level and put a piece of tape or a drop of paint so you have a reference point. I agree that is does move too easily. Though rare I have wanted a more aggressive cut so to me it is a nice feature. I think you could unscrew the adjustment slightly and put a drop of blue Loctite on and then adjust to level. Worth a try.
  19. I would not use a grinder as it will remove to much material and hard to maintain a flat. You just want to touch it up. I would opt for a small flat file or even a medium grain sharpening stone.
  20. When I look at the rings on the bottom two layers they are both crowned or cupped the same way. In other words the curved grain lines curve up on the outer edges. To reduce curving one should be curving up and the other down. Hope this makes sense. I wonder if on the others the crown is correct.
  21. There are no stupid questions. The foam roller last me 100's of projects. I still have most of the 4' piece of pipe insulation I started out with 10 years ago. When done just wipe off the glue with a wet paper towel. Should you get busy and forget to clean it don't worry. Allow to dry completely (over night) and then peel the glue off. My glue of choice is Gorilla brand wood glue. It dries clear. BTW I got this tip from the late Dirk Boelman at a scroll saw class.
  22. I would use a skip tooth blade like the Flying Dutchman Polar blade. I would use a #5 or #7 size. I would also make a compound cutting jig like this to hold the blocks secure while cutting. Go slow.
  23. Similar to Jerry I use freezer paper and a one inch paint roller covered with a piece of foam pipe insulation.
  24. Sharon how did you pay? If by Paypal or credit card you can contact the company and tell that you never received your order and you have contacted the seller with no response. You should not have to pay for what you never received.
  25. Sycamore67 really nailed it. Any species of wood that is cut quarter sawn will give you that same experience. Quarter sawn wood is actually more expensive and is sought after by many furniture makers as the wood does not cup and twist like flat sawn wood. https://www.advantagelumber.com/sawn-lumber/
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