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NC Scroller

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Everything posted by NC Scroller

  1. I will assume you are talking about freestanding puzzles. I use all kinds of wood s including poplar, oak, pine, walnut, etc. 3/4" thick is normal. Many folks dip in mineral oil but I use a product called Deftoil which is a Danish Oil product. I do wipe off excess before it dries.
  2. Couple other suggestions. Pine is not the easiest thing to cut due to the pronounced grain. Poplar or basswood or butternut are other good choices. Make sure you cover the block ( all 4 sides ) with clear packing tape. It will lube the blade.
  3. For ornaments I use 1/8" Baltic Birch and I will stack 5 or 6 . The more detailed the less I stack. For freestanding puzzles I use 3/4" hardwood. For picture puzzled I use 1/4" Baltic Birch. For portraits I use either 1/8" or 1 /4" Baltic Birch. I stack 2 -4. 1/8" fits better in store bought frames. For others: If you buy patterns from most designers they normally recommend a thickness. I normally try to follow their recommendations. I have done test cuttings for Sue Mey. I can tell you a number of thickness woods are tried before one is recommended.
  4. I just use an old soup can. Whatever works.
  5. I vote to just toss it and start over. I once attempted the heat trick. Sure it worked but took a lot of time. The real issue was once I got the pieces apart I found the heating caused the pieces to warp. Good luck with what ever you decide. Let us know.
  6. Thanks Travis. This was very enlightening and helpful.
  7. Another reason I now have a Saw Stop table saw. BTW my outage was not storm related but was caused by a transformer issue.
  8. A long time ago in a garage shop with no windows I had a power fail when cutting a piece on the table saw. Scared the ^%%& out of me thinking about that spinning blade. Was smart enough or scared enough to freeze until the blade stopped. I now have a rechargeable light that goes on automatically when the power is disconnected and a shop with windows.
  9. Mineral spirits.
  10. Got..... Since the King is supposed to be a Excalibur clone the slower cutting might be a factor that the blade is more straight up and down (front to back) then the Delta. Having the blade angled (front to back) makes for a more aggressive thus faster cut. But an angled blade will cause issues with thick projects like that one. Good job.
  11. Scott here. I think knowing at least first names does make it more personal.
  12. Jay I tried that and for me it did not work out. Oh yes the pattern stuck fine with zero lift off. The issue I had is almost always trim the excess paper from my patterns. That way I can position the pattern to take advantage of a particular grain pattern or to maximize the number of projects I get out of a piece of wood. In the latter I attach the patterns and then trim. Spraying both meant I had to deal with sticky exposed wood which I did not like. Besides it means using twice a much glue. Yes I know I used 2 cents worth versus 1 cent worth but like most scrollers I am cheap. LOL
  13. I have been scrolling for 20 + years. I am in my shop probably 320 days a year. I learn or re-learn something almost every day either in the shop or on forums. I have taught scrolling and have done numerous public demos through the club's U belong to. I seldom post bragging pictures but I love to help people so I do reply to questions and I do offer suggest when I think they are needed. IMHO a lot of this thread is talking about our world today. To many people today want it now. They don't want to start at the bottom and work into it. It is what it is. We with the experience and knowledge have to understand it and accept it. Yes that means answering the same questions again and again. The problem is Scrolling is a finesse thing. You can't read about it or watch a video and become an instant expert. You have to do and learn as you do. That more then anything else we need to encourage people to do. Now I feel better :-)
  14. I started with 3M 77 Super years ago. Decided to try Elmers because it was cheaper. After trying it 3-4 times I tossed it and went back to 77 Super. My local Lowe's has the best price. A large can is under $10. Since you only need a little the can lasts. I figure it costs less then a penny per project.
  15. Go. It only hinders blade changing.
  16. Listen to Kevin. Unless you are Delta certified do not disassemble it or modify in any way until the warrant has expired. The only exception would be to remove the hold down but keep it in a safe spot should you need to return the saw.
  17. Jim since you are up north I would recommend black locust or white oak.
  18. Never heard of them. Sorry. The best way to answer your question is for you to order a pack and try them. Blades are one thing you can ask 10 people and get 10 different responses.
  19. I only use ROS sanders. I like the Rigid variable speed ones.
  20. I agree with all the above. I know many 80 plus woodworkers. Ray's post is important. My shop has OSB on the walls and ceiling. Painting it white makes a major difference. I applied Kilz and then 2 coats of flat white. I used cheapo builder's paint. Think it was like $35 for a 5 gallon bucket.
  21. Good job. IMHO you took a major step forward in growing your skills. You tried new things and you found something that worked for you. Way to many new and even not so new scroller want others to tell them how ( what speed, what brand blades, what type blades, what size blades, etc). Most of the time it is not exact science so the best way is whatever works for you.
  22. Due to the open grain in oak I use a product called Deftoil. It is Deft's version of Danish Oil. I have tried the various plain oils. Bottom line you need a product that will dry / harden.
  23. Best of luck.
  24. King only have a 16" or 30" model.
  25. By chance can you post a link to where you purchased the kit?
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