dgman
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Everything posted by dgman
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I use both Olson and FD blades. My most used are FD UR #1, 3 and #5, and Olsen #2/0R and 2R. For classes I teach, we use mostly Olsen #5 skip tooth.
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Good for you Terrylee! I'm not a teacher but I have been teaching beginners scroll saw at a Woodcraft store for six years now, so I know you can do it!
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Looks good Jerry, excellent design and cutting! With the 50/50 oil/mineral spirits mix, it should dry in a couple of days regardless of temperature.
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Hey Jerry, I actually use a 50/50 mixture of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits. I use an old metal baking pan and soak the piece in the mixture for a few minutes. If the oil doesn't completely cover the piece, I use a cheap chip brush to keep it wet. Using nitrile gloves, take the piece out of the oil and shake off as much excess oil as you can. Using a clean rag, wipe off any remaining oil. Set it on an old cooling rack or a clean piece of cardboard. Let it set for an hour and wipe off any oil that my bleed out. With this mixture, your project will be dry in 24-36 hours depending on humidity. Then you can apply a topcoat if you want. Pour the used oil mix in an old clean mason jar for the next project. If you don't want to soak, use a chip brush to apply the oil mix. Keep it wet for about five minutes, then wipe off what does not soak in. Lay out the used oily rags over the edge of a trash can or bucket for twenty four hours. If you leave them bunched up in a pile, they could catch fire!
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Well done Edward, all your hard work has paid off!
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Great work Merlin!! I need to know where that came from!!
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Trivet Alert....Wonderful pattern by Bobscroll.....
dgman replied to Scrolling Steve's topic in Bragging Rights
The trivet King at it again! Great work Steve! -
No. Mineral oil is not a finish. It is an ingredient in commercial products such as Butcher Block oil. It is used for cutting boards and wooden utensils. You can find mineral oil at the drugstore.
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You actually read the owners guide?
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Good luck Lorie, I know you can do it!
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Welcome to the Village Mark! I love the rustic look of your work, and well framed too!
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It won't hurt your saw if you leave it tensioned, but I usually release the tension when I'm done for the day. I think what is more important, if you have a cast iron table as on the DeWalt and the newer Delta saws is to wax the table so it won't rust.
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I prefer hardwoods. Red Oak, Walnut, Cherry, Mahogany, Poplar, Alder, Maple or what ever you have on hand. 3/4" or 1". Most folks use mineral oil because it can be easily reapplied. No oil will make it water resistant, but rather it brings out the natural color and grain of the wood. I prefer to apply a top coat. I have not had any problems using a spray lacquer, just don't wash it with water.
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Not an issue for me, I have my dust collector hooked up to my drill press.
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Nice work Todd! I guess I would call it a towel rack.
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Great looking sign! I love Cherry too!
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Labor intensive for sure Jay, but well worth the effort!
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Great work Dan!
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Excellent cutting Jim!
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Beautiful piece Rob, very nice cutting and I love the wood choice!
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New to scroll sawing, had a question about the Skil 3335
dgman replied to Dreklie's topic in General Scroll Sawing
If you don't have a small protractor like above or a small square, use a credit card or a debit card to see if your blade is 90° to the table on either side of the blade. If not, look in you instruction booklet on how to adjust the table. Also it is important to have proper tension on the blade. It needs to have a high "plink" when you pluck the blade like a guitar string. If it clunks, it is not tight enough. Again, refer to the manual on how to adjust the tension By the way, welcome to the Village! -
I make a lot of clocks with fit- ups or clock inserts. I always use a forstner bit to make the insert hole. I have been scrolling for around twenty years and I won't take the chance of miss cutting the hole. If it's to small, you have to sand it. If it's to big, the insert won't stay in. You can control the depth of the hole also. I never cut all the way through the wood blank. It looks cleaner that way. Good luck and let us see your project!
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Excellent work Pete! The Wife will probably cherish the box as much as the charm!
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Nice cutting of a great pattern! I like them both but partial to the Cherry.
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I bet you are a top feeder. It is a common problem with DeWalt and Excalibur saws. Two things to consider. First, most blades have a small amount of oil on them to help prevent rusting. This oil builds up on the thumb screw and set screw. To remedy this, sand the ends of the blades before installing. I use a small piece of folded sandpaper, grit facing in, to Sand the ends. Second, the tip of the thumb screw gets worn and rounded. To remedy this I sand the end of the thumb screw. Look for my post in Works in progress and Tutorials for " Simple jig for blade slippage". If you where a bottom feeder, the top clamp would start slipping first. If these remedys don't work, you may have to replace the blade clamp.
