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dgman

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Everything posted by dgman

  1. If there is nothing wrong with your current clamps, then don’t worry about changing them. “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it!”. If however you are having problems with your current clamps, then by all means, replace them with the Pegas clamps.
  2. Yes, you want to store the mix in something airtight. I used to use a quart size mason jar. I now store it in an old gallon size mineral spirits can. I don’t think storing it in anything plastic is a good idea. I usually pour the mix into an old metal baking pan. Usually soak for a couple of minutes or so using a cheap chip brush to make sure every part gets wet. After a few minutes, I take it out and shake of the oil. I may even use compressed air to blow out the oil. Then I’ll wipe off any excess oil with blue shop paper towels. Then I’ll let it dry on a cookie rack. Make sure yo lay the towels out flat so they are not bunched up to prevent spontaneous combustion. I then will pour the remaining mix back into the storage container. The oil mix will be dry in about 24 hours. I will then topcoat with Deft semi gloss spray lacquer. Not the water based stuff, use the oil based lacquer. If it needs sanding, I use a piece of brown paper bag. It’s like using 2400 grit sandpaper without scratching. i have been using this method for many years with great success.
  3. Hey Gary, everyone has given you good advise. Here is what I do. First I soak in a 50/50 mix of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits. The oil brings out the color and grain. The MS thins the oil allowing the mix to easily flow into the cutouts and easily flow back into the pan. The MS in the mix allows it to dry within 24 hours or less depending on humidity. I then topcoat with a semi gloss spray lacquer. Two light coats per side is usually adequate. If the finish has and dust nibs, I sand It with a piece of brown paper bag. It like using 2500 grit sandpaper without scratching the finish. The oil will darken the the Walnut and give the Maple a slight yellow. The contrast will stay the same. I use Maple and Walnut together all the time and like the look. I’ll see if I can find a picture of a project with Maple and Walnut.
  4. Yup, lots of brownie points there! You did a great job Todd!
  5. It goes to show how a piece of wood can dictate what it wants to be! I wish I could find some of that wood! Beautiful work Charlie!
  6. Looks good Fran! If I was to cut that pattern, I would of cut the pattern between two panels, essentially shortening the pattern into two manageable sections. Then I would cut the backer board on the table saw. Then glue the two panels to the backer board.
  7. It is a typical 16” saw made in the same factory as most 16” saws out there. That means it uses adapters for plain end blades. It doesn’t matter what brand name is on the saw, they are all the same. Ok for a beginner, but for an experienced scroller, not desirable.
  8. Very well done on both projects Gordon!
  9. Wow Ray, that is looking fantastic! I would love to se a pic from the top.
  10. Beautiful work Tony! It is truly amazing what you can do with a fret saw!
  11. Nice work Gordon!
  12. That is a beautiful piece Charlie! Is the moon free floating?
  13. Making love is a good thing Roly, nice work!
  14. It is impressive, very nice cutting Chuck!
  15. I love those! I guess I need to get that book. Very nice work Denny!
  16. Excellent work Ron! What wood did you use?
  17. Excellently done! Look forward to seeing the completed project!
  18. Nice!
  19. Very nice cutting Al!
  20. Nice work Monti!
  21. Looks good Les!
  22. The inflatable drums have a stem just like a tire tube. I have an inflatable sander I used to use on my lathe. It was a hassle to use as my midi lathe stores under my bench. So whenever I needed the sander, I would have to pull the lathe out and set it up. The belt broke on it and I decided I wasn’t going to take the time to repair it, so I bought the flex sander and mounted it on my slow grinder. It works fine, but not as good as the inflatable.
  23. Nice work Ralph!
  24. Jim, you are right that the cutting is the easy part. After all, if you can follow a line, then you can cut Intarsia. Yes, the hard part is the contouring and shaping. Just like everything else, that comes with practice. You have done an excellent job on your first attempt Jim!
  25. Impressive work there!
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