dgman
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Everything posted by dgman
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You should find it cuts beautifully. It will create a lot of fine dust, but easy to cut. If you are cutting full thickness, I would use a #5 or #7 skip tooth blade. It is a softer hardwood so the blade shouldn’t dull any more than if you where cutting cedar or pine. P.S. I would use FD Polar blades.
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I have purchased this wood at the Depot. It is African Mahogany, it is very grainy which will require diligent sanding.
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Yup, that’s African Mahogany.
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I used to get it at the Woodcraft store in Ventura. But since they changed ownership, I haven’t been able to find it there. You should be able to find it a lumber shop. Each Woodcraft store will carry all the serfaced 4 sides that the Catalog shows, but they will also carry unsurfaced wood at a much better price. That’s how I buy wood.
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Hey Ray, it is true that most of what is available these days is African Mahogany. I’m not a fan of African Mahogany as it is very grainy, and you never get a good smooth edge like you might with Walnut or Maple. One of my favorite woods to cut to replace Mahogany is Saplee like John mentioned. But you have to pick out your boards as it will vary in color. My advise to you is go over to Woodcraft and find something that appeals to you keeping in mind the the more exotic the wood, the harder the wood will be to cut. i used to get real Mahogany when I was a member of the local woodworking club. We had a member who owns a professional wood shop. Occasionally a truck load of scraps would show up at a meeting and I would pick out the Mahogany. Some of would be red. Those were the days!
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Cool, looking forward to seeming it!
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Beautiful! I love the backer board.
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Ok Ray, are you not using a jig to hold you blank while cutting? If so, you do not have to tape it back together as the clamp jig will hold it together. Mine have a sandpaper lining to hold the blank. Unless of course your jig is no as thick as your blank. If that’s the case, make a jig as tall as the thickest part of the blank. Tighten real tight. You won’t have to tape the blank together again.
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Nice to see you posting Keith! Very nice cuttings too!
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I haven't cut one of Birchbarks patterns for a long time
dgman replied to heppnerguy's topic in Bragging Rights
Nice cut Dick! -
Hey Ray, it’s best to not use a reverse tooth blade as it wants to pack the sawdust up into to the wood. A skip tooth blade is best. For compound cuts I always use an FD Polar blade, which is a skip tooth configuration with longer and sharper teeth.
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I’m not familiar with a 10788. Could it be a stock number from a distributor for a package deal?
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Ray, the whole purpose of using any type of tape is to help lubricate the blade to help prevent burning. It could be that the label paper in conjunction with the clear packing tape is to much. I don’t know, I may or may not be right. When you apply the tape, you need to burnish it to the pattern. I use a small block of wood to do that. Take out all the air bubbles between the pattern and tape by rubbing it with the edge of the block.
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Personally Danny, I’m not a fan of poly. I don’t like the plastic look. I prefer a spray on Laquer.
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I love cutting intricate fretwork. With some good tunes on my Bluetooth headset, I get into the “zone” and just cut along.
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Cool work Marg, it looks just like them!
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Here’s my two cents. I haven’t had much luck flattening cupped boards, but I have had luck keeping them from cupping in the first place. You need to keep equal air circulation around your board, especially thin boards. Stacking and stickering is the best way if you have multiple boards. Don’t lay them flat on the floor or table. This only allows air circulation around the top of the board not allowing air on the bottom of the board. If you mill your own lumber, you have to take equal amounts off both sides. I always lean my freshly planed board so it receives equal air circulation around the board.
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Ray, I have several books that have missing pages because I’ve cut out the page in order to scan it. I had made a suggestion to Fox Chapel on making their pattern books easier to scan, but that never happened.
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Do you guys realize the original poster hasn’t been on in over a year?
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Well, look who the cat dragged in!!! Welcome back Paul, you have been missed!!!!
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Another vote for belt drive. My Delta Unl-Saw has three belts and runs as smooth as can be. No vibration and is very quiet. I know it will outlast me and whoever gets it after I’m gone. Bought it about 15 years ago. There used to be a woodworking store in New Mexico called Woodworks Warehouse that was an outlet store for Delta. I got a 3hp, right tilt saw with a 30” Unifence, delivered to my driveway for $1200. It was a purchase of a lifetime!
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They are fun to Cut! That is a good seller for me. Usually cut them from Mahogany. Nice job on yours!
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Looks good Dan!
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None! She has quilting buddies! She also occasionally works at the local quilt store for store credit. They also do these quilt retreats for three to five days!
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Yup. There’s fabric hiding everywhere in the house except my garage shop. Funny thing is she never has what she needs for the current project!
