Bpardue

The photo that Don shown was my version of the pattern by Steve Ramsey. I said correct because the earlier post mentioned where to find the pattern and I was just replying correct and the was my piece you were showing. I'm not on here regularly do to my real job. I travel normally every Monday thru Wednesday and I'm not on the internet much during those days.

correct- that was my piece

I do intarsia all the time and i don't think i would be interested in this. Most of my sanding is done with my flexible drum sander and my power carver. I will also use my sanding mop.

The light that came with mine when out within a month after purchasing & the motor started acting up a few weeks ago. I have had this saw sense late last fall. Not even a year old. Upgraded to the Dewalt. Nice this was i had bought a 1 year replacement warranty from the store i bought the saw from. Took it back and was replaced at no charge. Now this is my back-up saw.

Not sure where you live in NC but West Penn in Hickory may have it - Wall lumber in Mayoden has it as I have bought from them before but they are in long lengths

very nice - I like the lighter colored cross.

I have 2 of these in my shop - one on each scroll saw and my wife has one in her craft room for her jewelry making

There is a place that most people don't know about and I will let you in on the secret. There is a gentleman here in North Carolina his name is Richard Moore and he owns Richards Craft Woods. You can Google Richardscaftwoods.com and his site will pull up. Now I have an advantage sense he is about 15 minutes from the house. He does a ton of online & phone sales and ships all across the country. His Prices are very reasonable but I don't know about shipping. What I can tell you about him is the quality of his thin woods are better than I have every received from anyone else. If you have every order some widen (10-12") thin wood from Klingspor Woodworking shops than you may have received some of his wood sense he is one of their suppliers. The Local Scrolling group I belong to has been using him for a long time and he is our major supplier of Thin Woods. If you have ever been to the Klingspor Woodworking show in Hickory NC during October you have most likely seen him and bought Thin wood from him. You can not go wrong with giving him a shot and let him Know the Brian Pardue referred you to him. FYI he likes to talk. Brian

My new 26 also came with the lock line and works Great

Thought I would chime in as well. I went through a redesign last year and I'm very happy with the outcome. Built enclosed overhead cabinets to keep everything hand tool wise behind closed doors to help with dust control sense my shop is a single car garage about 14 feet wide and 24 ft deep. I need to keep the floor clean so my wife can roll the shop in her chair if needed. really like the lumber rack I came up with however the shed out back still has a ton of lumber stored in it. The dust collector itself is in a exterior closet on the back patio. I try to keep it as clean as possible so we don't track sawdust into the house. The 4th & 5th photos are my assemble area for my Intarsia and there are about 15 -18 projects is some stage of work. Photo 3 Lumber storage rack and display wall where I hang finish pieces to cure out prior to being pick-up by clients or packed up for a show.

I grow-up having access to a large woodworking shop and had a large shop till I moved to NC. My shop here is small and I needed to find something to do in a small shop in order to keep my sanity. I mainly do intarsia because I enjoy making the wood come to life in pieces. I do sell but only to support my hobby or addiction whichever you want to call it.

no pop-ups on my end other than the normal ads at the bottom of the page

i agree with painting the ceiling white. I did that and painted a lot of the cabinets white - it helped a ton with lighting but i had one dark spot and added a new LED 4ft strip light in that area. now you can read a newspaper on the floor of the shop

Fretwork is as you put it "actual cut out work -see the photo below Far as books go the "Big Book on Scrollsaws" would be a good one. There are several books out there published by Fox Chapel related to Scroll Saws. The nice thing about the boxes is the include several patterns.

Lowes sells a newer porter cable scroll saw for just under $200. I bought one a few years ago and it works pretty well. I have 2 other saws a Dewalt 788 and a new Hawk BM26 but i kept the porter cable for a back up. Before I bought my Hawk my 788 was in the shop for repairs more than in my shop cutting and I was using the porter cable and never had any real issues with it.

going to try the spiral shells this year and see how they come out

nice job

very nice work

I can not keep my wolf intarsia pieces - I take 1 or 2 to the shows and they normally sell. I also sell a lot of eagles & deer

just let me know and you can come on by. Just remember I have a "real" job.

Iggy, My new Hawk worked great out of the box and i still have not had any issues. I also still have my new 788. To me my Hawk cuts more aggressive & faster than the 788. I think once you get comfortable with the Hawk your speed will increase. For cutting 1" thick wood for my intarsia I don't think the 788 can compare. The only thing I use the 788 for now is cutting either dowels or raising / sanding shims out of 1/4" ply. Brian

I use a 6" Bench grinder variable speed and removed the wheels and installed the conversion kits to both sides. the conversion kits came from Judy Gale Roberts website. In talking with other serious Intarsia folks the Foredom does not hold up to prolonged sanding and the motor gets hot. My setup cost about $175.00 to get it up and running 5 years ago and I have not had any issues as of yet.

I use Lemon oil on the majority of my intarsia pieces as a "wash". Sense Intarsia involves a lot of Sanding there is a lot fine dust still on the pieces when I glue them up. I have a tub of the lemon oil and hold the piece over it and use a brush to brush the oil on both the front and back than pat the piece dry with paper towels. What the oil does is a few things. - removes the dust as a wash, helps remove the fine sanding scratches that may have remained, will show any glue spots on the face of the piece that can be removed easily and it will make the grain & colors in the wood pop. This lemon oil is not the final finish. Depending on the temps in my shop I will let the piece air dry for 3-4 hours up to 24 hours before I start the actual finish process. Finish process is 3 coats of a spray finish on both the front & back of the piece with a buffing of steel wool between each coat. Yes lemon oil is a polish and i use it in my process of finishing however Lemon oil will never fully dry out and if anyone uses it it must be "locked" into the piece with actual wood finish, like poly or any of the other finishes designed for wood or it will leach out over time and discolor the surface the piece is on. One benefit I have found in doing this is dealing with popular with the green tones in it. A lot of people say there popular that was green when they finish a project turns brown within a couple of years. I have pieces hanging both in my home and at my church with "green" popular still green in color after 7 years and no noticeable changes in any of the colors in the pieces. They still look like they were done yesterday. I have been asked repeatedly on how i get the depth of color and finish on my pieces. My process starts with Lemon oil. I mentioned above I use lemon oil on the majority of my pieces, the only time i do not use it is if the piece has a lot of Aspen in the piece. Lemon oil will yellow Aspen. If I'm using a small amount of Aspen I will use a whitening gel finish on it prior to glue up and that i will go through my normal process above. If there is a lot of Aspen than i start with clear spray shellac as my 1st coat than change over to my normal spray finish

Very nice

Well here is my entry. A tattoo inspired piece made from magnolia, Spanish cedar, walnut, Peruvian walnut, bubinga and aspen. The Grim Reaper