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Hawk

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Everything posted by Hawk

  1. I would agree with that. I've found but nipping the piece off my tension is much more consistent on my Hawk
  2. I've decided to try to branch out on my blade selection and give the Pegas a try. My question is I've noticed on one end of the blade it has a bit of a piece sticking up as compared to the other end. Is this normal? Is so, why? I've been just nipping them off for use. But wondered why they there.
  3. For my 2 cents worth, I really like that idea. My thinking would be to remove the sewing machine, maybe add another top over the orginal to both cover the hole from the sewing machine and to add a bit of strength to it for the scrollsaw. What saw do you plan to put on it? Again, beautiful stand! Chris
  4. I know Steve's site well, I'll go check it out!. Thanks
  5. Looks amazing! Awesome work. Just wondering where you got the pattern or did you create it yourself? Chris
  6. My first "real" saw was a P-20, used it for about 20 some odd years. Love that saw. My daughter expressed interest in scrolling about a year back, took the saw to her and she's been using it since. It's an awesome saw and will last a long time. Mine was zero vibration, but then the saw is a beast, wish they still made them like that. Anyhow, welcome to the village, this a a great place, awesome folks and a nice place to get questions answered. Chris
  7. Awe inspiring! Like you I have multiple saws for the same reason, in my case I have 3 all set for different cutting. Great work!
  8. Well, my thoughts are something completely different. When I have MDF, usually leftover from a bigger project I try to make something useful in my shop. Like a blade holder for the ever expanding number of blade tubes I have. Something to hold Dremel bits, pretty much whatever I can come up with to help organize my work space (it's kinda small, basement space) so organizing is key to me finding things. Good luck! Chris
  9. Definitely gives me some ideas on a similar solution to my Bauer...Thanks for sharing Chris
  10. Hang in there, it's like riding a bike, like @JTTHECLOCKMAN said, it will come back to you !!! Remember, we're all on your side here!!!!
  11. The best way I've found when gluing the pattern directly to the wood is like @Ctutor suggested. mineral spirits, dab it on let it soak a bit then peal the pattern off. A couple of alternatives to gluing the pattern on the wood is either painters tape or clear shelf liner, that peals off the wood quite easily and you can glue the pattern directly on the the tape/shelf liner with no issues.
  12. Seems like over the past few months I get started on something and then go "squirrel " and start something new without finishing the first one. So with the new year I've set out to finishing all the started things before starting new ones. Here's 2 of them. The Deer (2 pics) one is in the window to show the "stained glass "affect. It cut from ⅛ ply with a red oak frame and acrylic for the color areas The 2nd is a sun catcher for my daughter who is a Zelda fan. It's cut from ⅛ maple with acrylic in the middle. It looks the same from both sides. Anyhow, thanks for looking, back to the shop......
  13. Hawk

    Adding glass

    Like most topics, theres a ton of "how to" on cutting stained glass. I keep it pretty basic and let the grinder fine tune it.
  14. Hawk

    Adding glass

    The game changer for me was the glass grinder, kinds like a spindle sander except for glass. Much easier to get a proper fit.
  15. Welcome. Nice upgrade on the saw. Enjoy the journey!
  16. In my continuing journey with combining wood with stained glass this in my latest. I tried a couple of things different. First I used hard maple in place of plywood and the center piece is purpleheart. I used the cutouts as pattern pieces using double sided tape to attach them to the glass. Much better fit with less "tweeking" I'm like the solid wood over the ply with the center piece accenting rather than trying to hide it. All in all, making progress.
  17. The glass doesn't show on the sides. I put an 1/8" spacer around the perimeter to hide the edge of the glass before putting the glass in and gluing the stack together
  18. @JTTHECLOCKMAN, heres a short video showing both sides. As this is still in the experiment stage I painted one side silver in an effort to mimic solder, the jury is still out on that. 20241208_150757.mp4
  19. You know I do agree with you about the stained glass being easier. as compared to Intarsia. With Intarsia the margin of error (gaps) is almost zero, with stained glass the margin is much larger, better for these old tired eyes (lol)
  20. While bouncing around cyberspace I came across these. As I'm starting my journey with stained glass they peeked my interest. Anyone ever used these?
  21. Yep, tomorrow I'll take some pictures
  22. I agree with you on the green, I had originally intended that but for unknown reasons I cut the cross from the orange (DOH!)
  23. I gotta say my wife agrees with you too. For me the stained glass has "life" where the acrylic is so sterile in my opinion.
  24. Ok Village peps, I've been experimenting with 2 different ways to get color into a project and explore different ways of doing it. So 2 Crosses done in different ways. Which one in your opinion is better. How you measure better is up to you. I'm on the fence between the 2. I will say the one on the left is acrylic, the one on the right is stained glass. The glass was a bit of a challenge and I'm still on the learning curve. So.....what do you think
  25. I can tell you that mine sounds nothing like that, quite the opposite, mine is quite quiet and a whole lot smoother than his. I don't know why he has the feet upside down, maybe to bolt it to the stand but really you don't need that. Mine sits on the bench and like I said, vibration free. Interesting, I'll try to keep track, but mine is set up for mostly fret work on 1/8 inch stock. But I've also upgraded the blade holders to the Pegas, that helped quite a bit also.
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