Hawk
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Everything posted by Hawk
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Never thought of that. I do have shelf liner, I'll have to try that. Thanks!
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Tried that, even using a thin piece of 1/16th ply and it does work on small pieces, but in looking ahead to larger projects, like the fret work Viking, the bottom layer experiences some tear out especially with the thin cuts. Trying to avoid that.
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I'm planning to add a zero clearance top to my Hawk. Planning to make it slightly wider and just as long as the current top and something thst would go over the current top. Just wondering from those who have done something like this, what material did you use. My first thought is clear acrylic, just wondering if there was something better? Chris
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Just wish top feeding were easier, that bottom blade holder it tough to feed into. Other than that, I love my Hawk!
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As most of you know I picked up the Bauer 22" from HF a few weeks back. I upgraded the blade holders to the Pegas shortly thereafter. Started my first serious piece this week. Russ Beard's Viking Warrior ( # 2023-038). I can say the Bauer is doing great. I'm cutting with a Flying Dutchman Polar 2/0 running at about 4 on the speed dial. On my Delta P-20 I was totally a top feed guy for projects like this, and the Bauer does fine ( especially after I upgraded to the Pegas). But in trying to venture outside my comfort zone and put the Bauer through its paces I'm doing more bottom feed on the Viking. And I gotta say it's going pretty good. The pin at the back that holds the arm up holds it high enough that seeing the entry hole on the bottom of the piece is quite easy, even as small as they are ( using a #71 drill bit). As you can see I have a short dowel handy to release the pin to let the upper arm drop. All in all the Bauer is doing great!
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I picked up the Harbor Fright saw a couple of weeks back as I needed a 22" saw. I've done a pretty good write up on the saw from unpacking to running. This should help out, for me it's a darn good saw and you can't beat the price.
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I used my scrollsaw, kinda like cutting pieces for Intarsia, split the line! Also set the saw at a pretty low speed. The 2/0 blades seem to be the best, the more TPI the better. Anyhow that is what works for me.
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It's nice of you all to agree with my wife (lol) I must admit I prefer the natural (light) side also. But it had been in the back of my mind "hmmmm, I wonder what a dark stain would look like?" Which is why I had to try. Now I know, and knowing is half the battle!
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It's actually 2 sides of the same project, I think of it as a sun catcher, looks the same from both sides. But it seems that the preferred side is the light (natural color) wood side. My wife agrees with all of you!
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In my exploration of adding color to my scrollsaw projects, and trying something new, I took an actual stained glass pattern and cut it with ⅛ ply and filling it with acrylic in place of the stained glass This time I stained one side darker that the other. So what do you think? Light or dark wood? Chris
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I actually had the same idea but went a slightly different route. I use acrylic sheets, they are easy to cut with my scrollsaw, and I'm at the point I'm trying actual stained glass patterns. Here is a deer I got from a coloring book I used as a trial.
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Not at all, go for it!!!
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Om a FB group for Intarsia they have a pattern of the month for everyone to do. October was a funky owl by Steve Shears. I did the owl but put a spin on the backer. Mounted it to a 15" round and added a quote by John Muir The letters are ½ high and ⅛ thick, and cut from Bolivian Rosewood.
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Very nice idea recessing the inner ring for the glass.
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Very nice job, I like the presentation and the contrast between the piece and the backer board!
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I would agree, this saw is superior to many entry level saws, mostly being 22 inches as opposed to 16. It is also variable speed which is a big plus. I've been thru a few saws in my time scrolling and I will say this one is a winner.
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Thats great. I would also suggest a foot pedal if you don't already have one. It keeps both hands on the work piece and when a blade breaks pulling your foot off cuts power instantly. The Pegas blade holders went on pretty much straight forward, the bearing sleeve went in kinda hard on the top, I had to convince mine with slip joint pliers. Much better at holding the blades than the stock set up.
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Welcome from Michigan, getting the saw now is perfect timing with winter coming on! let the saw dust fly...
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Congrats on the new saw. One thing I did over the past few days is upgrade the blade holders to the Pegas. While not completely necessary but I was having a bit of an issue mounting the blade in the lower holder ( not the saws fault, just my clumsy hands) . Anyhow as to vibration, you'll notice that there are speeds the saw likes and speeds that it doesn't care for. Find the speed that fits both you and the saw, as most of what I do is pretty intricate I run mine at about 4 on the speed dial. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask1 Enjoy the saw, it's a good one as far as I'm concerned!
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Yep, I'm a supervisor for Casino Surveillance, so not many actually know who I am as I walk the floor occasionally, They tell some of the others in surveillance that I look like I'm grumpy and pissed off all the time. That is why the Grumpy sign (lol)
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Very cool, I may have to "borrow" that. Everyone at work calls me Grumpy, they say it's because I look like I walk around upset at everything. So they've taken to calling me Grumpy.
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Go for it, fun little project, every time I look at it I smile.
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Every now and then I do a project that makes me smile and I enjoy. This one has been on my list for a few years ( I worked at Disney World back in the 80's). Finally had a week free to make it. It'll go on the wall next to Donkey Kong. Chris
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Yep, ordered the Pegas blade chucks from @Denny Knappen, when I get them installed I'll let y'all know how it does.
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@Denny Knappen has a shop "artcraftersonline" He has blade tubes there. Great guy to deal with and a member here.
