Hawk

The project in mind is very similar to the layered stuff Alex Fox has. My gut tells me to use only natural woods, but my mind is urging me to go with plywood using stains for the different layers

So, I'm looking at a layered project that measures about 15" in diameter.. I was thinking of using natural woods but the cost is a bit up there. Plan B was plywood with varying stains to achieve the colors for the different layers. I'm also tinkering with the idea of entering this in local contests, so my question is would the natural woods do better than the plywood? or would the overall project overshadow the wood used? Chris

Awesome work. Was this an actual scrollsaw pattern or was it something you modified to be a scrollsaw piece? either way, like others have said Stunning work!!!

I've also been ordering from them for years, never been disappointed with quality or service!!!

Another vote for hot glue, thats been my go to method for years..(ok.... decades, but who's counting!) Chris

Not sure if this will help, but when I cut the 45's on my frames I always do it in pairs, the sides together then the top and bottom together. I used to use a strap clamp like you have in the picture, but it seemed to always pull the frame out of square. I glue 1 corner at a time in a 45 degree clamp, much better success with that. For what it's worth, the projects in your other pictures look great!! Chris

Well, I use something entirely different. As an avid golfer, and as I do my own regripping I use golf grip tape to hold things either temporary or more permanent if needed. Chris

I picked up an air brush to try to improve on my painting of projects, one question as I do test runs on scrap, do you prime before painting?. I'm using craft acrylics and thst thought occurred to me as I practice. Thanks, Chris

Welcome from a fellow Michigander. I worked at the Soaring Eagle before transferring to Standish, currently reside in Beaverton. If you have questions I can definitely help as well as everyone here, an awesome group of folks here! Once again, Welcome! Chris

I'll echo what everyone has said and say " Welcome" This place has some awesome people. No question is to "weird" I know because I've asked some whoppers over the years, but you'll always get a straight forward answer, most likely more than one (lol). Again, Welcome! Chris

I've cut 1/8 bass and I can tell you my saw with a Flying Dutchman 2/0 and it was like a knife thru butter, no backer, but I went slow, had the saw running pretty slow too. I would recommend doing some test cuts with scrap that would match what you project cut will be to get a feel for it. Good luck...

Well, another attempt at a resin pour with a scrollsaw pattern. This is a pattern from @alexfox which I took some liberties with. the "copper" color frame is ⅛ ply and the backer is ⅛ clear acrylic. Now the resin on the first pour I really missed the pitch with the color, i didn't add near enough dye for the color and it came out nearly clear, except for the orange. Turns out I didn't have any orange dye, I really should have checked to see if I had orange dye before starting the pouring process (lol). So I grabbed the orange mica powder I had for that. After everything cured I added another layer to every color except orange. The first yellow was too dark so eased up on the second. All in all a real learning experience and a reminder to be prepped properly next time.

I've had the saw for a while now and for me it's a rock solid performer. Out of the box, after a good look over I put in a blade and to my surprise is was vibration free. I did the ever famous nickle test and it past throughout the entire speed range. When checking the blade for being square to the table I found it off by a bit. A quick adjustment to the gauge under the table squared everything up. There are little stops built into the gauge for finding 90 degrees along with a couple of other angles. One interesting note, there is a lock for the upper arm, when lifting it, it will "lock" into the up position. There's a little pin at the back with a small ring to pull when you want to lower the saw. But here's the issue, that pin is 32 3/4 inches form the front of the table, quite a stretch for most people. I rigged up a dowel so I can disengage the pin from the front of the saw. I've seen others come up with some pretty interesting ways to do the same. The other issue, when first starting the saw, either by foot pedal or switch theres quite a "clunk" when power is applied. To date it really isn't an issue once you're aware of it. How it plays out going down the road months, years an so on time will tell. For me I put a few coats of wax on the table (I like my projects to slid around easily) and did test cuts on a wide range of woods, thick, thin and throughout the speed range. I used a Flying Dutchman #5 Polar and a Pegas #5 MGT and the saw did a wonderful job on everything with both blades. I've pretty much settled on a medium/low speed as that is where I'm most comfortable cutting. And like I said, vibration free! So, overall if you're getting into scrolling for the first time, looking for a backup saw or just upgrading from pinned/single speed saws, I would highly recommend this saw. For the price and what you get, to me is a winner. I've had mine close to a year now and other than the "clunk" at power on there have been no issues. The clicking in the video is he foot pedal I'm currently using on the saw. Chris 20250604_093706.mp4

I've had the saw for a while now and for me it's a rock solid performer. Out of the box, after a good look over I put in a blade and to my surprise is was vibration free. I did the ever famous nickle test and it past throughout the entire speed range. When checking the blade for being square to the table I found it off by a bit. A quick adjustment to the gauge under the table squared everything up. There are little stops built into the gauge for finding 90 degrees along with a couple of other angles. One interesting note, there is a lock for the upper arm, when lifting it, it will "lock" into the up position. There's a little pin at the back with a small ring to pull when you want to lower the saw. But here's the issue, that pin is 32 3/4 inches form the front of the table, quite a stretch for most people. I rigged up a dowel so I can disengage the pin from the front of the saw. I've seen others come up with some pretty interesting ways to do the same. The other issue, when first starting the saw, either by foot pedal or switch theres quite a "clunk" when power is applied. To date it really isn't an issue once you're aware of it. How it plays out going down the road months, years an so on time will tell. For me I put a few coats of wax on the table (I like my projects to slid around easily) and did test cuts on a wide range of woods, thick, thin and throughout the speed range. I used a Flying Dutchman #5 Polar and a Pegas #5 MGT and the saw did a wonderful job on everything with both blades. I've pretty much settled on a medium/low speed as that is where I'm most comfortable cutting. And like I said, vibration free! So, overall if you're getting into scrolling for the first time, looking for a backup saw or just upgrading from pinned/single speed saws, I would highly recommend this saw. For the price and what you get, to me is a winner. I've had mine close to a year now and other than the "clunk" at power on there have been no issues. The clicking in the video is he foot pedal I'm currently using on the saw. Chris 20250604_093706.mp4

First off, nice job on the key chains. Second, thanks for the info on Steve's site. Been there hundreds of times but so focused on the patterns I forget there's a ton of other info there. Thanks for opening my eyes! Chris

Excellent work as always! Love the osage orange. Will that hold it's color over time with the finish?

gotta admit, Gnomes bring a smile to your face!!!

I also agree 100%, I've thought about doing craft shows but never really could wrap my head around doing it. I would much rather give things away!

First off, they look great!!! As for cutting thick wood, for me, I kept breaking blades when trying to turn corners, so I have to rethink the corners. What worked for me was to cut in on one side, back up, cut thru waste to the other side, then cut to the corner. Did this regardless of how tight or relaxed the corner was. Seemed to be easier on the blades. But like I said, that worked for me, your results may vary (lol). Still, all in all I think the fish plaque is great!. Chris

Go Big!!!!! (LOL) Chris

I gotta say I really can't pick. Looks like to me it'd be a great set to do and hang them both on the wall!

Nice!!!!

Welcome and I can honestly say you've landed at the right place, especially as someone who's just starting out. There are some real talented folks here and the best part is all of them are more than willing to help folks out, regardless of how long you've been scrolling or how "dumb" you may consider the question, you'll get an honest straight forward answer, in most cases more than one (lol) but all of them will be helpful!!! I've certainly have asked my fair share over the years.! So what saw are you waiting on? Regardless of brand I'm positive they will be folks who can help you improve the performance of it! So, again...Welcome!!! Chris

Looks like an awesome truck, well done. I'm sure he'll love it!!!!