Sycamore67

In my area, Aspen is not too expensive. A 1 x 6 by 4 ft at Menards is $6.00.

Did anyone note the funny face winking and smiling after my backward blade comment....wink, wink wink.....of course it was in jest.

I put the blade in backwards so that I can pull the wood instead of pushing it.

The other point is that you have one that is quarter sawn and one plain sawn. The species of wood and how it was sawn make huge differences in its properties.

I just tried 4 of Charles Neil's videos and they sounded fine on my Kindle and computer. It is interesting reading this thread and the viewpoints. Several commenting are those who are making and finishing projects for sale and doing quantity finishing. For them it seems that time, cost, and visual appeal are all important. In my case, I am only interested in how it looks and have a lot of time to finish a project. The difference in cost for me is negligible and I am only doing one project at a time. I often will take a week to try different finishing regimes to see what I like best. Also, I have no interest in developing my own secret recipe for finishing.

The great advantage you have is time. Too many times people are looking for the fastest way and not necessarily the best way. The thing about lacquer is that it dries fast as long as the under coat is dried or cured.

I use Danish Oil with a poly top coat frequently and looks fine to me

I respectfully disagree with this. None of us have any idea what the financial condition is of the business or farm. Not all or many farmers are really rich as they have high operating costs along with being subject to world market conditions and local weather. You can not judge a book by the cover. I think this is a harsh judgement about something we really do not have all the facts. Does anyone really know how many scroll saws are sold per year and what the actual market is for the Hawk is and How many are sold per year? The comments I quoted can be very damaging to a company.

There is a slight difference between Boeing and Bushston. I doubt that they have the economics to do what is suggested as the market for scroll Swiss not as great as a 737. A scroll saw needs to be built to pretty good tolerances to avoid vibration and wearing out.

Looks good.... How do you keep kids from handling or damaging your goods.

You can but the flat sander or kits of parts from Stockroom Supply here in the U.S.. Or you can build your own. I built my own and works great and was a lot less expensive.

This is quite interesting. There are at least two viewpoints. One is from the sellers and another of the buyer. As a buyer, I do not want to deal with the hassle of getting a wrong order, having to make phone calls or emails, and then waiting to get the corrected order. A seller wants to make as few mistakes as possible for them and not to get a bad reputation.

Plain sawn wood in thinner pieces tend to cup. It is the nature of wood and worse with some species than others. Quarter sawn wood is much less likely to cup or warp.

Excuse me.....but I never said anything like this..please do not make assumptions about what you think I am saying. What I said is that I am more impressed with a company that does not make a mistake. If I order something and a mistake is made, I give them a chance to make it right. If they do, I may order from them again depending on how they respond to the problem. If they do it again, I am buying from someone else.

I agree that they fixed their mistake very quickly and that is to be commended. However, I often read threads like this and wonder about them. I would highly recommend a company that does not make a mistake in the first place. I have dealt with a couple of places that are right the first time and that is my expectation.

Ocooch Hardwood is a place I have used.

I bought mine on eBay. They were 16 mm diameter by 150 mm long. (About 5/8" diameter x 6" long.) The cost is $6.27 for 25 tubes and includes free shipping.

For some boxes, I use blue masking tape. To align the corners and clamp the corners together. You might try this to get things aligned and then add weight carefully to the top. If all the surfaces are flat and meet well, you do not need a lot of weight.

I am sorry that I did not get the joke...why a joke in this thread?

I am sorry that I missed his reply. I will re-look.

Sorry about the original post and I missed Ray saying his bit was too short. He also got a mini chuck which I am certain will help with small bits as they can move in the chuck. I cut a block from a 2x4 and as you can see there are prominent growth rings which can make the drill bit wander. These rings can also make doing a compound cut difficult. When drilling with a small bit, you need to bring it back up often to clear the chips. The picture shows a 1/16" bit and I drilled a hole through the 1-1/2" block. I use a larger drill bit for my compound cuts as the 1/16” bit is short and can easily break and more difficult to thread a blade through. Even with a longer bit, you still face the issue of wandering and breakage. I typically use a 3/32” bit which is 2-1/4” long and much easier to grip in a chuck and drill through a block of wood. Also, easier to insert a saw blade. Of course the pattern may dictate what size you need. I have cut a lot of 3D ornaments and making them out of this type of wood is more difficult than others. There are hard spots and then soft spots can break.

Not only can you not sell copies but you can not give them away.

There are some current drill presses with quill locks. This is also a feature that helps reduce quill slop and associated inaccuracy. However, the quill lock is typically on more expensive drills presses.

One is always tempted by such ads. Such a great deal but I think of it as theft of intellectual property.

I think it is a violation of copyright. I looked up a couple of books on Amazon and you can still buy them.