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I've been recovering from a eye injury and getting ready for my last craft show of the season this weekend. Busy, busy, busy. Jim

That's a really good deal. Jim

Thanks everyone, I was concerned I was having a senior moment. lol Jim

Hello everyone, hope everyone is doing well. I've noticed that when I'm cutting my puzzles that the saw/blade struggles cutting through the wood when I'm cutting in the direction of the grain. This is on 3/4" Poplar and Pine. It has no problem cutting across the grain. Has this always been the case or has something changed in the wood and or blades? Thanks Jim

Welcome from Colorado Springs Jerry. Jim

You need a larger saw blade (XXL I'm thinking). LOL Jim

Great job, I will have to make one or two because I play Fender Stratocaster's. Jim

Mine normally falls to the ground and then I can't find it....so I guess I throw mine away also LOL. Jim

Hi Don, it looks like it was FrankEV. Here is the link I found. https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/44200-two-heads-and-entwined-bodies-pdfs/#comment-476296 Jim

Yes, I have what are called a "milk crate heater". But it just takes too long to get the inside temps up to a working temp for me sometimes. Jim

Normally if I can get the shop temp up to 45-50f, I can work in the shop. But it's a little too cool for today. It's suppose to be in the 40-50's tomorrow. So I'll work tomorrow. Jim

Yeah I was hoping to get out there again today. But the inside temp was 15f. I think I will wait till tomorrow to go back out and work on more puzzles. Jim

I got off work early today so I thought I would work in the shop this afternoon cutting the last 2 dog puzzles that were ordered at the Craft Shows. I spent 3 hours cutting out 1 AUSSIE dog puzzle. Broke 6 blades all up inside the upper blade clamp. But I forged on and finally got the 1 puzzle done. Tomorrow I will work on easier puzzles before I start my dog puzzles I have left to do. It was a long afternoon, but it was still better than going to work. Thanks Jim

Here is the response I received from Hegner just now. Doesn't sound too complicated. Even I should be able to do this. Hello James, Thank you for contacting us. Correcting alignment is not terribly complicated: here's the procedure. 1) Remove the saw from the stand so that you can get to the Allen-head bolts under the base which anchor the mainframe (the orange casting that hold the blue arms) at the rear of the saw. Leave a blade installed and tensioned in the saw. 2) SLIGHTLY loosen both of these bolts (#28 - see parts diagram). It will likely require serious effort to loosen these, as they are VERY firmly tightened and also secured with a split lockwasher. The necessary wrench was originally in the toolkit packed with your saw, but I believe it is a 5 or 6 mm Allen screw so any suitable wrench will do.. Note: be sure to firmly seat the head of the wrench in the screw so that it does not cantilever out and cause injury under pressure! 3) Once the bolts are loosened (do NOT remove them), the frame may immediately spring back closer to its ideal position. You can loosen the bolts as much as needed to allow this to happen. 4) If needed, you can also gently rotate the frame into position by hand. However, if you do this, you may also need to realign the motor: in addition to aligning the blade roughly to the centerline of the long blade slot from the front of the worktable, the goal is for the connector #21 to hang perfectly vertical and allow free and easy rotation of the drive mechanism. For this the motor needs to be in proper left/right position (viewed from the front of the saw) relative to the sawing frame, and also be perfectly perpendicular to the center line of the arms. If motor alignment is required, it involves loosening of the four hold-down bolts which secure it to the base. 5) Once you have aligned all the components, secure the C-Frame bolts. If you have also loosened the motor bolts, finger-tighten these and turn the saw on and off quickly two or three times: this should allow the motor to "self-align." Then tighten the motor bolts. 6) Now briefly run the saw and observe the blade from the front to ensure that it is running true, and that the blade runs clear of the table cutout. Note however that it does not need to be perfectly centered: it is far more critical that the blade run true than that it be perfectly centered. If after these steps have been taken, there is still an issue of any kind, please contact us to discuss further. We have other options but they are rarely necessary. I hope this information is clear and helpful. If you do have further questions please do not hesitate to contact us at any time. Our phone lines are open weekdays from 10-3 (Eastern), and I personally am usually available between noon and 3, at 1-800-727-6553. You can also leave a message 24/7 and we will call you back no later than the following business day. Kind Regards & Happy Holidays, Patti Martin, Customer Support & Sales Advanced Machinery Inc 2 McCullough Dr., Suite #1 , New Castle, DE 19720 800-727-6553 M-F 10am-3pm EST

Hi Dave, yes my saw has always been like this. I bought it used back in 2017 or 2018. It hasn't bothered me other than being an eye sore. But I'm wondering with the side of the saw blade coming into contact with that piece, if that would reduce the life of the saw blade? Hi Kevin, yes I emailed Wolfgang yesterday to see what he suggests that I do. Thank you Jim

Hmm, I've never looked at the Ray. When I get home I'll see if I can move the table to the right just a smidge and see what I find out. I was thinking it could be something with the upper and lower arms. Thanks Jim

Correct and it is Scrappile. I just don't think it should up very well in the picture. I'm not able to move the Quick Clamp. Jim

Thank you Tony, yes I have a small engineering square that I use. I am normally putting drops of oil on the upper and lower arm pivot about once a week. I only scroll for a couple of hours a night after work during the week. I'll see if I can push those clamps around a little to see if I can get that blade a little farther away from that side piece it has been chewing through. I also wonder if I can adjust the set screw on the lower blade clamp that would take the blade away from the side piece a little bit. I haven't looked that close to the blade clamp to see if that is possible. Thanks Jim

Hello everyone, on my Hegner Scroll Saw is there a way to adjust the upper and lower blade clamp? On the upper blade clamp the blade it all the way to the left of the clamp and on the lower blade clamp the blade is riding up against the table insert on the right side. So I'm thinking (hoping) there is a way that I can adjust those two arms so the blade is in the middle of the blade clamps. Here is a picture and hopefully that shows what I'm talking about. Thanks Jim

Sounds like you're too busy to even get into trouble Kevin. Jim

Nice job. Jim

Here is my take and please remember this is how it is with me. I'm more comfortable with my Hegner 18V that I have. It did take a while to get it dialed in and sometimes I think I am still dialing it in. I have two 26" RBI Hawks and I am more comfortable with the Hegner then with the Hawks. All three saws were bought used a few years ago. I had the Hegner probably a few months before I bought one of the Hawks. My thinking was I would use the Hegner while standing up and then when my legs got tired and I needed to sit down I would use the Hawk. Well sitting down and using the Hawk has not worked out well for me. Might be because I haven't given it enough time to get comfortable with it. Also always got frustrated trying to put the blade into the bottom clamp while I was doing a interior cut. But with all the said. The Hegner and both Hawks all run fine with no problems. I believe they were all made in the late 90's of I remember correctly. Sorry for rambling on. Thanks Jim

Happy Thanksgiving to you to Lawson. Jim

Awesome Iggy, glad your sale went well yesterday. Hope your next one goes even better. Jim

Thank you Mark, hope to see you again soon. Maybe get together to see how that Hawk of your's is running. Jim