JimErn
-
Posts
2,055 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
17
Content Type
Store
Profiles
How-To & Articles
Scroll Saw Reviews
Clubs & Organizations
Clubs & Organizations International
Pattern Shop
Suppliers
Village University
Help Desk
Forums
Gallery
eBooks
Everything posted by JimErn
-
Very well done. If I were to cut this again (and I might....it was a fun cut), I think staining the dragon/princess layer a darker color (or lighter, if I go with a dark stain overall) would be the way to go. I think that is a great idea, I might carry it one step further and have the dragon and the girl different colors/shades
-
The loss of a loved one is devastating, but the loss of a child is even worse, my prayers are for you and yours in this difficult time. I am but a PM away if you need to vent, or ..
-
ROFL you guys are funny! @jbrowning I don't get the mag or the patterns anymore, but if the pattern has a dotted line down the center, yes it is compound. Stick the pattern to a block of wood with the dotted line on the edge of the block. Then cut one side, tape it all together, and cut the other side
-
I was, and that was after I simply missed the reference to it here sigh - getting old is not for wimps
-
Love the uniqueness of the piece, very creative and as usual outstanding work
-
Yeah it was funny some time ago, I measured mine, and silly me, I asked what others were using for a tilt, I got every answer except degrees - too funny
-
Great work, Love the top especially
-
Fantastic work Dave, I always love seeing your work, it gives me something to shoot for. Beautiful just beautiful.
-
very nice
-
My ex is raised in the back too. I find it easier to stay on the line and control the piece. I tried it after hearing about it here, and just liked it immediately To me a tilting head just makes sense. You don't tilt the table saw, you tilt the blade. and if you are hand sawing or drilling you don't tilt the piece.
-
If it were me, I would buy the pegas. I put a digital tilt meter on my ex-21, next to useless IMO. And from what I seem to remember S Good saying in his write up, it takes a while for it to settle down to a final number. I do not know for sure, but if it is build into the saw, (a bracket) then it being accurate at level will depend on your installation, it will have to be level regardless of the floor.
-
So good it could be a sketch, bravo!
-
congrats, I always enjoy it when Christmas comes early
-
after you wipe, brush it on, and you start to lift the pattern, if it sticks, wait a little more and if necessary give it another touch of MS. In my experience the pattern should lift off just as easily as picking up a regular piece of paper @Scrappile Great cutting
-
Hegner question (yes I'm off my rocker)
JimErn replied to jbrowning's topic in General Scroll Sawing
I put Masonite on my ex-21 and it helped but you still needed to wax it, then I went to the magnetic sheet - wonderful difference. So smooth and slippery I tried a refrigerator magnet on the ex-21 and it would not stick, I figured ok double sided tape if nothing else, but the whole sheet of a magnetic sheet did stick just fine
-
Yeah I have a whole amazon wish list set up with camelcamelcamel, gotta love both the price history and the drop in price alerts. Wikibuy is another I use
-
I try to support our local businesses but that said I am not going to pay double. Quite often I print the amazon page and ask a local manager if he can match it, some do some don't. That of course is for things I am in no hurry for. Bought a rocker recliner that way, saved $350. We found one she liked in the store, googled it, and surprise delivered it was that much cheaper
-
I've used blue tape, shelf liner, packing tape, and they all work, but, in my view the added work when cutting fretwork is not worth it to me. Added work - picking out all the small pieces of tape left behind after cutting I sand the piece with 220, blow it off, spray the pattern, stick it to the wood. When finished I use a sponge brush dipped in mineral spirits on the pattern, wait 30 sec and the whole thing lifts off. Dip a paper towel in the MS, wipe down the surface and let dry
-
I stack cut the top and bottom, the walls of the box are a single piece with the center cut out, glue the bottom to the walls. When I want a deeper box, I cut two of the walls, stack and glue them, sand the inside as needed, then glue the bottom piece
-
Really nice work Rocky
-
The hole is way to big, you need to get the smallest drill possible for the blade you are using, I use a pegas MG #3 and a 61 drill bit Start the hole IN the inlay piece close to the line (but not on it), I prefer right at a corner, not in the back ground piece. Then you mix up some glue and saw dust into a paste and fill the hole. In your bell I would put the hole at the bottom where the base line starts to curve down In the cat below I put the hole at corner in between the legs at the corner, and on the butterfly on the right side where the wing ducks in and out again
-
very nice
-
Ever since Kevin first mentioned PB Blaster I have tried it and found it be a great lubricant, I too use it on everything But, WD40 has its uses, it will clean damn near anything. Including paint, glue, silicone, grease, etc off your hands and fingers. It will also cauterize a cut - don't ask
-
Yes, I pour out the oil into a tray, those flimsy tin trays you find in the dollar store, smaller version like what you put a turkey in for the oven when done I pour the remainder back in the can using a funnel and piece of cloth or paper towel as a filter. Wipe out the tray with a paper towel. I use a marker on the tray to tell me what oil I used, natural, oak, etc, probably overkill but I don't want to mix oils by using the same tray over and over. I try spirals every now and then, but since I don't use them a lot, I might as well not. so far flat blades have done everything I want to do.
-
I guess I am weird, well we knew that, but the only use I have found that I like for those test tubes, is to hold different wood saw dust that I use for filler. I get the blades in that plastic pouch, cut the top off, unwrap them and put them back, then I just get one out as needed. no labeling, no tops to drop, works well for me.
