JimErn

WTB, Wooden Teddy Bear https://woodenteddybear.com/ scroller online http://www.scrolleronline.com/ Alex Fox https://www.etsy.com/shop/AlexFoxUA?fbclid=IwAR0UpHYrz9q5FrRsprUcvnogujbmsaBay5gfCNyU_DZsLNj2uetoQKhIplc Charles Hand https://scrollsawart4u.weebly.com/ to name just a few

I've got a battery operated one, came as part of the set of battery operated tools using the same battery, thought it is shaped more like the standard skill saw. It works well on BB, thickest I have cut with it is a 1 by pine (so actually 3/4")

great cutting

Signing the back is a great idea, nice cutting too

Great start, I don't think I would have been brave enough to pick that multi-layer pattern when I first started - kudo's

Welcome to the family, nice work you show there. I served in Korea long ago, 70-72 and 80-82, wish I could afford to go back again

I've been dickering with the angle, I am at 1.8 right now with 3/8 stock and the inlay sits in the just a shade proud. maybe 1/32 of an inch proud, makes for a tight fit with a tap from a rubber mallet, and then sanding then takes it down the rest of the way. I would think that at your 1.7 setting it would sit slightly lower, but evidently not, I will try that on the next one. I too use a MGT #3

I am getting close to having to order blades Please do get some and let us know what you think, that will save me some money one way or another

went outside, listened to the light rain on the tin roof, had cigarette and thought about it, easier way to do it draw the 10" circle with a compass draw the diameter from one point on the circle through the center to the opposite side get a protractor. , mark off the 36 degree mark, draw another diameter line using that mark and the center, rinse and repeat

The present positions of the notches for the panels are equal distant around the circumference, that distance is the 1/2 the radius ( radius is 1/2 of the diameter) Use a compass, draw the 10 inch circle, radius in this case would be 5 You want 10 panels around r * 2 * 3.14 /10 5 * 2 * 3.14 = 31.4 / 10 = 3.14 use 3.14 inches as the distance for the compass legs, start in one spot and arc the circumference working your way around I would use metric for the last part, 3.14 inches is 76.2 mm, or if want 3.14" is 3 3/16 plus some

Plywood is not suited to our hobby, the filler in between layers is not always dense enough and has voids Baltic birch plywood is the best plywood for scrolling, hard to find a lot of time locally, but it can be ordered from amazon in various thicknesses and sizes. Poplar is sold at the box (Home Depot, Lowes) stores, that scrolls well and is reasonably cheap. Pine works too, especially if you cherry pick a stick with few to zero knots. The box stores usually carry regular pine and "select yellow pine". Designer firewood is a part of this addiction, we all have it, and sometimes boast about it. chipping rare when using baltic birch plywood. But it can also be somewhat controlled by speed. I believe that a high speed on the saw, and a slow feed rate allows the blade to "revisit" the cut and reduces the fuzzies. Feed rate = the rate you allow the wood to hit the saw. Blades with reverse teeth also reduce the fuzzies a lot. If you read on here a lot you will devotee's to about any blade made, with the exception of the blades you can buy at the box stores. Flying Dutchman (Niqua), Pegas Modified Geometry are the two main brands for the majority of us.

Dave, @Dave Monk, The lid on the harley box fascinates me. I'm just starting with inlay but when I do it, there is no way the inlay is flush on both sides. Did you sand the bottom down to make it flush, or use a thicker wood for the inlay part? or?

Beautiful work. Ironic, every time I think I am doing well, I see something better - kudo's

Great job, hang it on the wall, down the road it will be something to see. I still have mine hanging.

awesome work Dave

@heppnerguy Dick how wide is the line you are cutting now, the one shown in the flower pic?

Outstanding work, kudo's

I prefer the middle one when comparing the last to the middle, and thanks for the demonstration. I think the black lines in the middle one, makes it more distinct and lends a stained glass format to it. I also prefer the narrow black lines vs the wider ones in the first pic

thinking about this overnight, when I put the paint in there if there are any streaks where I can sort of see the wood, I add more paint. Nice thing too about using the acrylic paint, if there are missed areas, you can paint over it and re-flock it - found that out by accident, sort of

I never thought of it that way, I have been trying to figure out what the comment was directed at - I getting slower I guess,

Iggy, have you been up to look at the solar panels (I seem to remember you installed them but I could be wrong - old age) If you did, was that the reason you did not lose power, or were your neighbors ok too.

No I do not thin the paint, I don't do lacquer, just can not manage to get it looking good, and I like the smell of wood, so I don't know if it would stick or not. but at less than a buck at wally world, worth experimenting I would think

Now I am flattered Dave, using one of mine, thank you! Back in that first thread I did about flocking I said I did not go with the one you are showing, the one I went with used acrylic paint and it works good. So I can't speak to using the paste in the kit you showed. Walmart carries the hunter green paint in the craft section, less than a buck for a 2oz bottle and that is plenty One thing I do is I made a tamper, block of wood rounded on all edges and gently "tamp" the flocking, gives is a crushed velvet look, rather than the felt look - well my opinion anyway. Of course that is after "spraying" a hefty layer of flocking. edit - read Don's reply, I use sanding sealer, one coat, no sanding

My issues with the sunbeam was with the transmission, seems it was always blowing the shifter pawl fingers and the synchro gear. course that could have my speed shifting during the race too.

Good to hear y'all made it ok