So, positive, boats at sea, negative, dancer, both, girl with flowers and butterflies. Compound cuts will also be positive. Interesting that I never considered this aspect before.
It looks like it takes both pinned and pinless blades. The adapter uses a thumb screw. Unique design allows blade to be installed in 2 directions. ???
I’m sorry, but I think is in the same class as every pinned blade saw.
I don’t do this, because I don’t know how and I don’t understand most of what you said. I pretty much take what I get. If I want it resized I go to Office Depot and use their copy machine (I do understand how to do THAT).
I personally think that you want a band saw. It is heavier duty than a scroll saw. You CANNOT do interior cuts. You can cut thick material, you can resaw. Keep thinking about what project you want to do and what tool will help the most.
I use clear shelf liner and full sheet labels. When I have to use paper and spray, I wait a couple of minutes, attach and smooth down with an old credit card.
It also has to do with how much pressure you’re putting on the blade. I have had trouble with 3/4” thick puzzles because of this. Too much pressure resulting in puzzles that only go together from one side because of a tapered cut. Boxes are even harder because they are thicker. I have accomplished a few boxes, but they are not my favorite to do.
To fix a cupped piece you need a jointer, not a planer. A planer will press the wood down and remove wood, when the wood exits the planer it will just cup again. A planer makes each side parallel, not flat. Wetting your wood and weighing it down might flatten it.
I do a bit of fretwork. I don’t use my drillpress to drill those holes. I use a dremel in the plunge router base. It’s quick and easy. A drillpress would be cumbersome and hard to get it in the exactly right spot for those tiny areas. I think you might want the scrollers drill from Seyco.