jollyred
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Everything posted by jollyred
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Nice work. And the snowman is holding a plant, so it is relevant to the swap.
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To save a pattern from the library, right click on the image of the pattern, and save it to a folder on your computer. Don't know what is going on with your Gimp.
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Bill has the right process for applying the finish, but what may be equally important is how smooth you sand the wood. The finer the last grit of sandpaper, the shinier the finish will be. To get a high gloss finish, sand to at least 320, sanding with the grain by hand on the last sanding. Also, a light scuff sanding between coats with 400 grit or finer will help. Be sure to wipe all the dust off with a tack rag or vacuum cleaner after sanding.
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Sorry about that, the original post shown here somehow was a previous post for that cat and book sign. I have edited this to show the bowl. Iron on edging is a thin veneer, which is put on the edge of plywood or MDF to make it look more like a solid piece of wood. The kind I use is pre-glued with a hot melt glue which is heated to melt the glue so it will adhere to the edge of the plywood. It is commonly heated with a regular clothes iron, which is where the name comes from. It comes in several wood species, and is also available for use with formica and other laminates.
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This is the bowl I showed in "making a bowl" in the tutorial forum. I have applied the finish and the bowl is done.
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My cousin may be getting that for his Christmas this year. Great job.
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Great pattern and nice cutting. I got two new great grand daughters this year. Might have to make one of these for each of them. Thanks for posting.
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I have had that problem with all of the adhesives I have used to attach the patterns. The shelf paper seems to remove easier after some time than the others I have used. I just removed some that had been on the wood for almost a month, and didn't have too much problem with it. However, I usually do try to get it off in a day or two at the most.
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I cut on the black line, and have the light coming in from the side, so the blade casts a shadow of the blade away from the line. Don't have a problem telling when the blade is wandering away from the line, which happens quite a bit with my cutting.
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My draftsman stool has a back on it, which helps quite a bit when I want to lean back to relieve the pressure on the back. It also has a built in footrest, which I don't use. Didn't put the arms on it, made it easier for me to move around while sitting.
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I already use a draftsman's chair and I think you will like it a lot. The wheels allow me to take it to any part of the ship I need to be in.
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One thing to try to get rid of some of the nodes is to "simplify" the paths, under the path commands. If you delete all of the nodes, there will be no lines left! It may be that after simplifying the path, the drawing will change to something you don't want, especially if you simplify several times. If that happens, just "undo" back to the last "good" drawing. The "undo" command is one of my favorites.
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Looks to me like there are short grain issues involved, also. The pieces broken out are at right angles to the grain, which means the section will be weak. When the grain is aligned with the cut, the parts of the pattern are good, since that is a stronger orientation. Those pieces also look to be slightly narrower, which would again weaken it. If you recut it, try making that part thicker to strengthen it.
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That is very cute. She will love it. Thanks for showing us.
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After seeing your first post on this, I went out and got some solar lights to make a couple of these, but haven't gotten around to making them yet. Thanks for adding to the list of projects I have in line to do.
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Dampening the cupped side will cause that side to expand, which will flatten the board. However, it will re-warp when it dries out. You need the weights on the wood to hold it in place while drying. This does work, just be sure to allow plenty of time for the wood to re-dry.
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I have that font and I believe I got it from dafont.com.
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This is a piece I made for my wife's birthday. I made the pattern, using some clip art for the figures. Needless to say, she likes to read and pet cats. The backer is 1/2" birch plywood with iron on edge banding and a deep red mahogany dye, and the overlay is 3 mm baltic birch. Finished with a couple of coats of spray lacquer. As you can see, the decoration at the bottom wasn't cut well at all. May have to make another one at a later date.
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Well done. I plan on making that pattern for my grandson-in-law, who is a barber. Will make it later this year and give it to him for a Christmas present.
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The way I do it is to save the pattern to a flash drive, although you can just save them to a folder in your computer. That also allows me to organize them somewhat.
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German pyramid what to use for pivot point
jollyred replied to zimmerstutzen's topic in General Scroll Sawing
I would say the rounded part of the acorn nut would go be the bearing surface. When I was making whirligigs, I used small steel ball bearings for the pivot. I also used glass marbles. These are upside down from what you are doing, but the principal is the same. A little spot of grease on the pivot also makes a lot of difference. -
I like those. The one with the tree reminds me of the wizard from the animated movie "Wizards".
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I hate it when that happens to me.
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Just tried it and it worked fine.
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I especially like the tree of life pendants. I have a question, what do the "whale tails" represent?
