BadBob

No, if I had space, I would have three of each belt sander, that would be six belt sanders, so I would not need to change belts unless I wore out the belt. There are disc sanders, flat and conical these all are used on my Shopsmith. I would like to have a belt-fed drum sander and a sand flea. I make toys of all sorts and do a lot of sanding. Having the right tool for the job makes everything easier.

Here is what I use for scroll saw projects: Shopsmith 6" Belt Sander - Useful for curved edges and flat surfaces that I want to remove material quickly. The best tool I have for sanding wheels to size. Delta 1" belt sander - It does a great job on outside edges and can be used for some inside curves. I also have the Shopsmith version, which does the same thing and lets me do inside sanding. Klingspor Sanding Mop - Expensive, but worth the cost. Removes most fuzzies and leaves a silky smooth surface. Klingspor Mac Mop - Similar to a sanding mop but a bit more aggressive. Ridgid Spindle Sander - Great for sanding inside curves as small as a 1/2 inch radius. It also has an oscillating belt sander. Random Orbital Sanders - I use these for sanding flat surfaces, such as prepping wood for the scroll saw and sanding puzzles. I have four sanders, one Hitachi, and three Bauer random orbit sanders. I have this many sanders, so I don't have to change the sandpaper for each grit. I have the Bauer sanders because the dut port is round. Quarter Sheet Palm Sander - I only have this because I have a huge stack of 80-grit sandpaper that fits this. I would not recommend buying one. Grizzly Flex Shaft Rotary Tool - I use this with an assortment of drum and flap sanders for sanding inside curves. You can do this with a held rotary tool like a Dremel, but this is lots better. If it ever dies, I will probably buy a Foredom. I have other sanding tools that don't get use for scroll saw projects, yet. These are only the power sanding tools. At some point, you will need to resort to hand sanding.

Harbor Freight Abrasive Balls https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/drill-driver-bits/abrasive-attachments/4-in-180-grit-abrasive-ball-61184.html

Watts is how much power it uses. Lumens measure the amount of brightness.

They come with a steel circle with 3M adhesive on the back, so you can mount them to plastic or aluminum if you like.

I use sewing machine lights on my EX21. They are cheap and they work great. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N1MK51J/

I have only made two clocks. These dragons were made as Christmas gifts.

I have four double-locking casters on both of my saws. I have never needed to lock them.

I have my foot switch mounted sideways, and my chair is adjusted so that the weight of my relaxed foot closes the switch.

I'm the same. I would much rather use email, but many businesses will respond slowly to email, if at all.

Ray is not working in the shop now. He works from home. That is what he told me. So how did I get him on the phone? I called when they were closed and left a voicemail.

I have never got a response to an email.

I did a bit of digging on the subject since I had never heard of HEIC or HEIF. It was developed in 2015 and as far as can tell it is only used by Apple starting in iOS 11 by default they are converted when uploaded but this can be changed. My guess is that @rash_powder is using an apple device that is misconfigured to upload these without converting them.

I'll do that if he ever gets back to me.

Wow!

The posted images are in HEIF format. I don't have anything on my computer that can display these. High Efficiency Image File Format (HEIF) is a container format for storing individual digital images and image sequences. The standard covers multimedia files that can also include other media streams, such as timed text, audio and video.

Thanks,

So I need to call Bushton and ask them about the serial number. The saw is too far away to take a look.

I believe that was Stevie Ray Vaughn. I used super glue to coat my fingers' ends when I had a cut so I could still play.

Ultra was what I was looking for. How can you tell the age from the serial number? On the Bushton site there are four 220VS manuals listed. When I look at the manuals for these they all seem to have the round bottom clamp in the illustrated parts break down, but the text in the manual contrdicts this saying that the lower clamp is T-Shaped. When did they stop using the round clamps?

This turned up on my local Craigslist, and I am trying to figure out what it is. The posts are pretty bad. I do wish they had put better model numbers on these.

I love scrounging materials. If I had a door, I might try to salvage it. However, today at my local home depot, 4x8 foot luan panels cost $17. I would not go out of my way to get a door at that price. I have never seen a hollow core door that was not luan plywood. If I found a door not made from luan, the story might be different.

I would use the pattern if it were what I needed. I usually want something else. It would not save me much. My laser printer costs me less than $0.02 per sheet to print. I wanted to mention backups. When I scan a book or pattern, it gets backed up offsite as soon as I save it the first time. When I edit a pattern, it immediately gets back up, and the old version gets saved for 30 days in case I change my mind or do something stupid like write over it. Deleted files also are saved for 30 days. I also periodically run manual backups. I have at least four copies of every scanned pattern or book., each stored in a different device of every scanned pattern or book. If it isn't offsite, it isn't backed up. If you haven't tested a restore, it isn't backed up. I can tell you how many times I have been given a blank tape to restore someone's data. Not a fun day. I know someone is thinking, "I don't have to back up my paper books." Think fire, flood, hurricane, tornado, or the dog eats it. Your disaster recovery plan by all new stuff.

You'll get over it.

I don't keep the paper. Once the scans are backed up I shred them.