BadBob

Are you using one of these tools for setting the angle for making bowls etc?

I have a collection of squares. A few years ago, I decided to test all my squares and eliminate anything out of square. I got a big surprise. A Stanley over 40 years old and bought out of a clearance bin at a lumber store was dead on. A 12-inch plastic rafter square currently selling for $4.99 at Harbor Freight was dead on. A 12-inch combination square, I got free in one of those deals where you qualify for a gift when placing an order was dead on. An adjustable try square I got free when placing an order was dead on at 90 degrees, and as far as I could determine, it was correct for all the preset angles. A cheap 12-inch framing square that was the first square I ever purchased more than 40 years ago was dead on, and considering how low my income was then, I would be shocked if I paid $5 for it. None of my most expensive squares was square. I tested them by using a Starrett straight edge and a granite plate.

Yes, you can, but getting the windows lined up by sanding hardwood in something this thick is a pain. It is easy to get them right if it is all cut in one piece, and I don't screw it up.

I have cut 2-inch hardwood. It is slow and very difficult. Watch where your fingers are, as you can get them hammered easily. I cut this toy truck's body on my scroll saw. I would not do it that way again.

PDF is not an image format. It is a container. Putting your scanned image inside a PDF only adds a layer of complication to the process. A scanner produces a bitmap image. You can save it to any number of bitmap formats. I prefer a jpg for scanned patterns. I edit the pattern with Gimp if it needs it and then use Inkscape to trace it and save it as an SVG file. At this point, you can resize to any size you need.

That is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks.

1-3/8 inch is what the pattern says, but I could adjust to fit.

I think I am going to buy one of these.

Where can I buy small round picture frames to insert in a hole?

Don't buy this one. I bought one several months ago. I have to get it very close to the saw and use it, and it constantly gets in the way. The top part does not connect firmly and comes of if you twist it the wrong way. It is too short for my needs, and I can't buy an additional section from the company to make it smaller.

I do the same but use mineral spirits. This works great for 3M77.

I have cut entire pieces with the #5 MGT blade upside down.

Looking forward to your review.

That is a very good question. I bought mine because I was having issues with my stock EX21 clamps. I didn't do a lot of research. Of course, they fixed my problem, but the difference was amazing. If you are happy with what you have, keep them. If you are having a problem and need to replace them, buy the Pegas clamps. I don't think you can find a non-Chinese factory replacement for the EX21 clamps.

Do you have a link to these?

Yes, you can.

I keep spares on hand.

When I bought mine, you could not get the brushes separate.

I have the Glue Bots, and I primarily used the Baby Bot. I stopped using it because the tip would clog quickly, and the cap broke. Fast Cap replaced the cap to their credit and sent me a bag of replacement parts. Today I use Mainstays 12 Ounce Plastic Squeeze Dispense Bottle from WalMart for my glue dispenser. I make toys and apply tiny amounts of glue on irregularly shaped parts. These are the best tools I have found for this. Dried glue peels off easily should I forget to clean them. The kit is available from many sources. I got mine here. I have used the pinking shear but found it spread far too much glue for my purposes. A piece of threaded rod works great, but you need to clean it quickly. I have used silicon basting brushes. They work well when spreading large amounts of glue. I use a Paint Tray Palette a lot for gluing. Dried glue pops right off and it works gret for paint too.

This is in my Pegas Manual.

My new Pegas saw is up and running. I read the manual and could not find any place where it talked about adjusting the upper arm parallel to the table, as my EX-21 says. I did it anyway, as it was so far off I could see it without measuring. This is the first saw I have ever had that has the guards in place. There was one on the bottom as well as the top. I removed the top guard because it significantly interfered with installing the blade, and I removed the bottom guard because it banged against the table when the saw was rum at high speed. Removing the lower guard required me to remove the table to get to the screws. I replaced the screws in case they were holding something inside. While the top was off, I discovered that the thin plastic part of the dust collection was only attached to one side. I made one from a piece of magnetic sheet that I had. After waxing the bottom of the table and everything I could not get to without removing the table, I reinstalled the top and checked all of the alignments. I did my first cut. I cut some kittens from a 3/4-inch piece of oak. It works great. There is minimal vibration at high speed, and the cuts are smooth. The Grizzly mobile base that came with the saw will have to go. It adds about 10 inches to the width and gets in the way. One of the wheels is where I want my foot switch to go. Only two wheels are casters, making it more challenging to maneuver in tight spaces. In short, the mobile base takes up to much room. I'm thrilled with the new Pegas Scroll Saw.

I bought this one owner never used Pegas Scroll saw Friday. The seller said he bought it for his wife to use, and she never got around to it. It cost me $700 and a 12-hour drive to get it. Patience paid off. My old RBI is moving out.

I do that. One has a resaw blade and one with a 1/8-inch blade.

I keep posting the video when the subject comes up because I would not be surprised if more store-bought paste waxes disappeared.

There are a lot of scroll-saw groups on face book. The format is terrible, and there are way too many members of all who post the same thing in all groups—lots of repetition and poor or no moderation. There are four scrollsaw forums I visit at least weekly. In three of those I only look at new posts to see if anything is interesting. There is very little. Scrollsaw Workshop Community should shut down. Very little traffic is there, and Steve doesn't monitor the forum. Scroll Saw Woodworking and Crafts Message Board is better, but there is very little activity. I do participate there occasionally. I don't think anyone from the publisher actually monitors the board. If it went away, I would not miss it. The Scrollers Cafe seems to mostly have threads about what members are having for breakfast. There is very little other activity. I get an email once a week with a list of all the new topics. Scroll Saw Village is home. There is something new and interesting here every day. I regularly send people here.