Jump to content

BadBob

SSV Gold Patron
  • Posts

    2,060
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    19

Everything posted by BadBob

  1. You don't say what capacity you need. This will be the driving force behind your purchase. Start with the smallest and work your way up until you find one that meets your needs and budget. Saws with more capacity and features are heavier.
  2. Yes, I thought of that.
  3. I have one on a Shopsmith bandsaw. It works, but you can't set it up according to Cater's instructions. Shopsmith bandsaws do not work the same way as most other bandsaws. It takes some practice, and you will not get smooth cuts as a scroll saw. It is not going to turn your bandsaw into a Pegas scrolling bandsaw. With the Carter Stabilizer, you can cut much tighter turns with less risk of damaging your blade. The Carter Stabilizer is for use with narrow blades only. If you resaw, you must change the guides to use your resaw blade or have a second bandsaw. I have two bandsaws. I cut these with it.
  4. I agree with @barb.j.enders . If you really want to use a sticker please make it removable. So the buyer can easily remove it if they don't like it. I don't care for the blank back on the ornament. I would have engraved both sides with the same or another photo. The back of the car comes to mind.
  5. I have long thought that a laser could be used for engraving a pattern on wood for cutting with a scroll saw. You just gave me yet another reason to want a laser.
  6. I did a lot of reading posts on cutting flooring. Some flooring will eat blades, but the experiences were mixed. I decided that I would have to try it and see how it worked. If it cost me a few blades to figure this out, so be it.
  7. One of my neighbors threw out a large pile of 2x2 foot flooring samples. I took some home to try. The vinyl samples were horrible to cut. The problem was with the glued-on padding. The glue was soft and gooey and mixed in with sawdust, and smeared all over the edges. However, some laminated (plywood) hardwood samples were lightly glued onto a 1/4-inch hardboard backing. I cut this cross from one of the panels. The backing came off while I was cutting, and I used tape to keep it together. I wound up with two crosses: one plywood and one hardboard. You can see the seams where I glued the tongue and groove panels together. After gluing, I put the cross on a nonstick surface and put two five-pound weights on top to hold it together and flat. I used two Pegas #3 MGT blades to cut this. It cuts much as I would expect from baltic birch plywood. The photo is not very good. I had never photographed a cross before.
  8. What there is to learn in these books is about the finishes themselves. Finishing wood is finishing wood. The techniques may differ between a tabletop, a carved leg, and a fretwork shelf; however, you are still finishing wood. I just finished two fretwork shelves with satin polyurethane. I used a brush and brushed it on straight from the can. We do lots of different things here.
  9. If you want to learn about finishing, look for books by Bob Flexner and Michael Dresdner.
  10. Poplar, Red Oak, White Oak, and Pine are the primary woods I use. I also use smaller amounts of Ipe, Walnut, Cherry, and mystery wood. I even cut some MDF. What cuts the best can change from one board to the next. Any wood can have checks that you can't see that will break or fall off.
  11. I use both Gimp and Inkscape. When I first started, the most challenging thing was the language. If you don't know what something is called, you can find how to do it with Google. There are many tutorials available online for both.
  12. https://www.google.com/search?q=alphicons There is the book and some in one of the magazines.
  13. There is a newer book. Publisher ‏ : ‎ No Starch Press; 2nd edition (December 7, 2021) Language ‏ : ‎ English Paperback ‏ : ‎ 576 pages ISBN-10 ‏ : ‎ 1718501757 ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-1718501751
  14. There are a lot of these style patterns judging from the number of photo I have been able to find. I spent a lot of time looking for them. I'm good at searching the internet, but I could not find the source. They may be on a non-English website, or the files have some decipherable name. (14egw^!ZyGx2PQArmPg.jpg, for example) Another possibility is that they are in a book out of print and did not sell a lot.
  15. Have you made anything with Alphicon patterns?
  16. Very nice!
  17. Custom signs I understand.
  18. One thing I do not get is signs/plaques. Steve Good makes a lot of patterns for these. Most of them look like a waste of time and wood.
  19. That would be me. Although, I occasionally see one I like.
  20. I own an older Excalibur EX21 and an old RBI Hawk. If I were buying new today, I would buy the Pegas scroll saw.
  21. Update: It has been more than 1 month and I can still smell the danish oil.
  22. I'm primarily a toymaker. I made toys for girls, and later, when my grandson was born, I started making toys for him. He loves my toys and would keep every one of them if I let him. I have made many fretwork shelves and enjoy making them and plan to get back to them. I don't like portraits and probably would never cut one. I have no problem using someone else's design or paying for it. However, I make changes to almost everything. I like some silhouettes and have made a few plans to make more in the future. Bowls, baskets, and ornaments especially compound cut ornaments. Bowls and baskets are still on the want to try list. I want to make some chess sets. I started one years ago, and my kids kept taking the pieces plus work got in the way. A couple of weeks ago, my grandson asked me to make a chess set, so a chess set has moved to near the top of my list. I sell online, so the business and my grandson drive what I make.
  23. I make toys, and I have seen this repeatedly. One designer admitted this to me after an extended discussion via email. One toy designer has never admitted not building his designs, but he posts rendered photos. Never a photo of an actual toy that he built. When you go to build the toys, you sometimes discover obvious errors and design flaws or parts that are near impossible to make or so weak they are easily broken. All of which would easily be discovered if he had done a test build as part of the proofing.
  24. After trying many brands, my solution was to buy the Harbor Freight 10 pack. Reasoning that I would open the tube, use the glue, and then toss it. For some reason, I didn't throw it out, and it hasn't dried up on me. It comes in thin and thick versions. Current pricing is $2.99 for ten tubes.
  25. Every one of these I ever used dried up shortly after being opened.
×
×
  • Create New...