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Wichman

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  1. Wichman
    I have read that with steam bending, the ligin in the wood has to "melt" and the quickly put in a form and clamped until the ligin cools and resets. Some hardwoods lose to many oils in the process and are prone to splits and checking. I have also read that some European countries use an oil based heat treatment on the wood. I figure that a flat form is still a form; so we'll see. As for keeping the cuts perpendicular, just shear dumb luck.
  2. Wichman
    To keep myself busy I'm making some brackets. I used a Steve Good pattern and reduced the size. I intend to use 1/2" dowel rod to hang the curtains. About an hours cutting for each bracket. I used FD Polar blades throughout, 2/0 for the flower petals, #1 for the rest of the interior, and #3 for the outside. The wood is 1/2" Elm.
  3. Wichman
    I think I see some confusion about the "hockey stick". In my limited experience there are two types of hockey stick and three causes. Type 1; this is the blade bending sideways, typically caused by a set screw misalignment. Type 2; front to back bending. first cause, swivel binding up and then two much pressure on the blade and it bends or the pinch point of the thumbscrew catching and bending the blade. Type 3. front to back bending. Second cause, to much pressure on too small a blade; the blade is being held by a pinch point (any style clamp) and when cutting the blade bends at the pinch point. Either accept the limitations of the blades or use the next larger blade (continue to try larger blades until the bending stops).
  4. Wichman
    My favorite for 2025 was the pencil organizer that I based off of a Charles Hand pattern:
  5. Wichman
    Very nice
  6. Wichman
    Paul, I am hoping that cutting the frets out will help with the flattening process. I have used lightly warped boards in projects before, where I was using pinned mortise and tenon joints. I used clamps to hold the board in place, then installed the pin. The warp put pressure on the pin and prevented movement Sometimes you can use "defects" to your advantage.
  7. Wichman
    The two trivets cut out and first sanding. These are about eight inches in diameter and have a 3/8" warp. I'm hoping that all the frets will allow the trivets to flatten out easily.
  8. Wichman
    When I laid out the pieces for the Secretariette I had two sections of warped board and I wanted to try to flatten them, with a twist . After cutting I'm planning to heat the boards in Walnut oil, 275 degrees for two hours then press with weight until cooled ( about two days). I want to see if the oil bath will limit the checking and cracking that can happen with steam bending. The test pieces, pattern by Charles Hand :
  9. Wichman

    Key fobs

    Wichman posted a topic in Bragging Rights

    Some key fobs I made for friends and family members. I used Steve Good's font to create most of them. For two of them I substituted "Birds of Paradise" and "Z003" fonts for Steve's font, these two fobs are intended as collectibles, as the recipient collects fobs.
  10. Wichman
    I like it! As a fellow Vet, thank you.
  11. Wichman
    search for "twelve" . I just did, it was the first of three results
  12. Wichman
    Welcome back
  13. Wichman
    One last post Key fobs!
  14. Wichman

    New here

    Wichman replied to Craig55's topic in Introductions

    Welcome to the village from SE Idaho
  15. Wichman
  16. Wichman
    Here's my system. An eight foot length of 1/2 inch rebar hung from the rafters of my shop. Non slip, velvet covered clothes hangers. I can get a - lot - of ornaments hung with this system.
  17. Wichman

    Hello

    Wichman replied to JaneyM's topic in Introductions

    Welcome to the Village from SE Idaho.
  18. Wichman
    Due to a printing error, I had ornament patterns that were close to 1/2 the size of the originals, the smaller patterns cut fine, even stacked 4 and 5 high ( 1/2" to 5/8" thick plywood ). I did switch to 2/0 blades ( FD, Polar blades ).
  19. Wichman
    To bad they don't make them anymore.
  20. Wichman
    I came up with this scheme a couple of years ago, and it worked for smoothing the wood planks too wide for my 12 and 1/2" planer. I recently ( thanks to the HF manager who let me take apart the machine in the store and check to see if the larger diameter brush still had clearance, it does, yeah! ). I ordered a drum with abrasive nylon bristles, 320 grit, It doesn't remove all the fuzzies, but it does an excellent job of smoothing the shellac ( in preparation for more coats ). Note the hi tech "sandbag" for retaining the handle The " surface conditioning tool" is locked on, at 1000 rpm, and plugged into a foot switch. When not in use the tool switch is off and the foot switch is unplugged.
  21. Wichman
    Very nice! A couple of notes. When you have a need to control a stain line, you can use an Exacto knife to score a light line where you want the stain to stop, by using a small brush to apply a light amount of stain, the stain will "bleed" to the line and no further. For the cones; I would check the angle of some step drill bits to see if any are close, I have a set of three with various angles, if you were doing enough to make it worth your while you could grind a spade bit to the proper angle.
  22. Wichman
    If you go to Steve Good's website here he has a wealth of information on this subject.
  23. Wichman
    That's very similar to the saw I started with, and although you can get the 3" blades I would not recommend this saw and especially at that price, way too much money for what you'd be getting.
  24. Wichman
    Welcome to the Village from SE Idaho
  25. Wichman
    Welcome to the Village from SE Idaho I agree with Scrappile, Steve Good's site is great. But it's not 100's of patterns, it's 1,000's ( over 5,000 and counting)
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