Wichman

This book has copywrite protection (I guess not from Russia). It is available from Amazon. I own this book. https://www.amazon.com/Classic-Fretwork-Scroll-Saw-Patterns/dp/0806982543/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3BVGYBK5OJNBD&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.37EzIcVlgLJB6gaJRNN8oABmcggYzmDASCSkkOo-Gm3MOBs5gUabJIbdJ2r_59Y-wT680LOg30u05TFQN4o6adhVseHAysHZGlUm9fhy-YKqI4Bbails35-dirltYEl-e16PBVrJus5w0XhIIl42IvWxFK924t7A0g751LmQTtHNt2HQeJEVUqm5fwpz9Izg.K6WdomiAcyojmDU7vAobJpms5qtwDh6Lj9meMOf2wKg&dib_tag=se&keywords=classic+fretwork+patterns&qid=1748779856&sprefix=classic+fretwork+patterns%2Caps%2C190&sr=8-1

The patterns can be found at the following website. Scroll to the bottom of the page, there is a link to download the entire collection as a single zip file. I've started using a thumb drive as a backup for my scroll saw patterns to avoid what you have just experienced. https://www.finescrollsaw.com/

If I were cutting that much I would seriously consider the Hegner Poly Max saw. This saw has a 20" throat, but come with a 7 year, commercial/industrial warranty. It is pricey, $3,400 but it looks to be even more of a tank than the standard Hegner.

I found this at https://woodenteddybear.com/products/phb112-john-3-16-heart looks to be the same pattern. I searched through the pattern library as well, with the same results as you.

For illustration only: https://www.harborfreight.com/hardware/magnets/pick-up-tools/18-inch-telescoping-magnet-37187.html https://www.harborfreight.com/15-lb-capacity-telescoping-magnetic-pickup-tool-64656.html I have this first next to my saw, stuck to the stand, I use it to pick up blade clamps that go flying, so I don't have to get on my hands and knees. I have the straight version also, currently attached to my benchtop belt sander as a safety guard ( sanded a finger while reaching around the side, where the disk sander is ). handy little buggers.

I have stack cut like this before. You want to place the hardest to cut on top. If the hardest is on the bottom, you can't tell if the bottom of the blade is tracking until you've finished cutting a section. With the hardest on top the bottom portion of the blade has an easier time of tracking. I've stack cut three layers of 5/16 wood, two layers of walnut, with one layer of oak on top. Cut like a charm.

Welcome to the village from SE Idaho

I know it's a typo. The fairy may be a little kinky, but whatever.

There are many sources for lamp patterns including right here in the Village, just search "lamp". an example, there are more Cherry tree toys (wildwood designs) has an assortment, generally very detailed patterns; under scroll saw patterns look in the "furniture" subsection. https://cherrytreetoys.com/products/cherub-scroll-saw-lamp-plan Sue may has some patterns https://scrollsawartist.com/search.php?search_query=lamp Fine scroll saw as mentioned above has some pretty fancy patterns. With a little imagination most fretwork designs can be worked into a 4 to 8 sided lamp base. Within the "lamp" search here on the Village are several discussions of using parchment paper and colored panels to enhance the look of the lamps.

Thank you for the follow up, this may help future questions on the Village.

If you are sure of the outlet suppling the power, the next thing I would check is the power cord; any obvious damage? Take the power cord, unplugged, and slowly work from the cord to the machine, bending the card into a gentle u shape, by doing this you want to make sure there are no "stiff" parts in the cord, and stiff parts would indicate that the cord has internal damage and needs to be replaced.

The pattern can be found on SG website by searching the blog for "ship in a bottle" or going to the blog post of Friday, April 18th, 2025. (I couldn't find it in the patterns either, I'll be e-mailing Steve shortly with this information )

I use this Electrical Receptacle Tester to test my outlets (other brands available): https://www.harborfreight.com/electrical-receptacle-tester-with-gfci-diagnosis-63929.html If your wiring has an issue it may be the problem.

Do you wear prescription glasses? I do, I am very near sighted with significant astigmatism. For normal day to day use I use progressive lenses. For scrolling I use what is called a workstation prescription, single correction and everything from arms length to sitting at a desk or the scroll saw is in perfect focus; everything past 5-6 ft becomes out of focus, about 20/40 vision, so I can drive with them but I don't. For the last 20 years I had nothing but polycarbonate safety lenses and safety frames, I'm always wearing safety glasses because that's all I have. I tried the headband style, a very inexpensive pair from HF ... did not like them at all, too much distortion. When I need extra magnification I like the clip and flip lenses. These clip onto your glasses and you can flip them down or flip them up out of the way. These were inexpensive ones from HF, they were 3X, if I remember correctly, but they wore out quickly and HF discontinued them. There are other brands available on Amazon, I just haven't ordered any yet.

An owl switch plate. 1/8" BB plywood+1/8" backer, fits over the switch with the original screws. Cut as a double stack with 2/0 FD Polar blades, outside cut after laminating the backer. One coat thinned shellac, several coats glow in the dark paint. I forgot to add; owl design from a Steve Good pattern, the rest mine.

If you cut and then waterproof flat stock it will significantly improve the odds of the piece staying flat. That being said, the type of wood ( flat sawn, rift sawn, quarter sawn, etc. ) or plywood, how it was processed, and how it is/was stored all play a factor into how stable the wood is and will continue to be. The following picture is of a pair of overlays for a project I did some 20 years ago. The base broke and I saved the overlays to use in a future project. The overlays are made from some inexpensive 1/8 plywood and have been unsupported for most of the time. I have not used any special methods to keep them flat but they remain flat and ready to be used in the future project.

What type of glue did you use? Did you weight the piece down or use clamps?

https://loyocaworkshop.com/products/wine-box-plans-and-instructions-power-tools-cnc-loyocaworkshop

I've been informed that the Artist is presumed to have passed away, here is a link to the thread with the pattern. You need to read the whole thread as Denny modified the pattern a bit.

you can find the artist @ http://www.oldcrowscrollwerks.weebly.com/ and ask for the pattern, he hasn't been to the village in several years

About drill bit deflection; back in the day I needed to drill a hole lengthwise down a stainless steel bolt, the only drill bit that would not blow out in under .25" was a cobalt alloy bit. That's been my go to ever since. You can find numbered bits here: https://drillamerica.net/productdetail/d%2Faco65/65-cobalt-heavy-duty-jobber-length-drill-bit When I'm drilling past 1/2" material I use the drill press and max out the speed (3500 rpm). You would need to heat the drill bit up to 1500 degrees to destroy the temper, you be burning holes in the wood before you got the bit that hot.

HF has a universal too stand that is height adjustable. The lowest setting would put your router table at 39 inches off the floor, assuming you RT height is 13". When I put my tall tools (RT, bench bandsaw, belt/disk sander) on the miter saw stand, their tables are at about 45" off the floor. That height works well for me (5' 9") as I have back and shoulder issues. I use that high a work surface for drilling holes for fretwork with my Dremel plunge router accessory. https://www.harborfreight.com/universal-tool-stand-69805.html

welcome back to the village

welcome back

A Steve Good pattern. 1/4" Elm with a 1/8" Masonite backer; #1 FD Polar blades for the interior cuts, #3 FD Polar for the outside cut.