Wichman

What type of glue did you use? Did you weight the piece down or use clamps?

https://loyocaworkshop.com/products/wine-box-plans-and-instructions-power-tools-cnc-loyocaworkshop

I've been informed that the Artist is presumed to have passed away, here is a link to the thread with the pattern. You need to read the whole thread as Denny modified the pattern a bit.

you can find the artist @ http://www.oldcrowscrollwerks.weebly.com/ and ask for the pattern, he hasn't been to the village in several years

About drill bit deflection; back in the day I needed to drill a hole lengthwise down a stainless steel bolt, the only drill bit that would not blow out in under .25" was a cobalt alloy bit. That's been my go to ever since. You can find numbered bits here: https://drillamerica.net/productdetail/d%2Faco65/65-cobalt-heavy-duty-jobber-length-drill-bit When I'm drilling past 1/2" material I use the drill press and max out the speed (3500 rpm). You would need to heat the drill bit up to 1500 degrees to destroy the temper, you be burning holes in the wood before you got the bit that hot.

HF has a universal too stand that is height adjustable. The lowest setting would put your router table at 39 inches off the floor, assuming you RT height is 13". When I put my tall tools (RT, bench bandsaw, belt/disk sander) on the miter saw stand, their tables are at about 45" off the floor. That height works well for me (5' 9") as I have back and shoulder issues. I use that high a work surface for drilling holes for fretwork with my Dremel plunge router accessory. https://www.harborfreight.com/universal-tool-stand-69805.html

welcome back to the village

welcome back

A Steve Good pattern. 1/4" Elm with a 1/8" Masonite backer; #1 FD Polar blades for the interior cuts, #3 FD Polar for the outside cut.

Flush

8" diameter

A Charles Hand design. 1/4" elm, mostly FD Polar #1 blades for the internal cuts ( I should have changed to a #3 for the long sweeping cuts ), #3 Polar for the outside. This one's for my kitchen

Welcome to the village from SE Idaho . That's the style of saw I started with.

Welcome to the village from SE Idaho .

Mark, just spit balling here. What do you use to drill your pilot holes? If you use Seycos scroller drill, the you could think about the following concept: Cut the bands out for the hat. Attach the pattern to the inside surface. Using the scroller drill, drill the pilot holes. Position the band on the scroll saw so that the top of the band is above the top scroll saw arm. Using small spiral blades, cut out the pattern. I've been thinking about this issue for awhile, but health issues are keeping me from it loop

Welcome to the village from SE Idaho

https://www.thewinfieldcollection.com/products/all-50-us-state-ornaments-project-patterns I just got the Idaho ornament, but it looks like only the Kentucky ornament is available as a single; for Tennessee you'd need to get the 50 states bundle.

I added a heart to the Idaho ornament pattern that I have (just above the "o"), special for a customer. It is more popular than the original:

I like it. My only suggestion is to replace the star with a small heart. Customers could send them to loved ones out of state.

I don't have any pictures of the process. If I do another I'll get my son to help take pictures. The process takes two hands and a lot of focus. I used 20 oz cups from a local coffee shop. I cut the bottoms off several cups to allow better airflow to speed the drying. The dragon and tail were cut at an angle to the grain so that the bias would match the downward angle of the spiral. For a cup holder design it starts with the dragons head at the top of the cup. For the dragon to sit on top of a tree, start with the head at the bottom of the cup. After soaking the dragon, hold the body of the dragon 1/2" below the rim. Hold the dragon body at the base of the tail. Next gently bend the tail around the cup, working slowly and allowing the wood fibers a few seconds to relax before moving to the next section, continue until you reach the end of the tail. While continuing to hold the dragon body take another cup and place on top of the dragon, with a slight twisting motion, with the direction on the bend fit the second cup on top of the first cup, when the cups get close to each other carefully tuck the small pieces in the body under the top cup, when the two cups are tight together tuck the end of the tail in between the two cups. Allow to dry 2 to 3 days.

I did a Google search for anyone else doing something like this, the only result that was close was one of my pictures

This was to get you in the ballpark. If you scroll down there are more choices in the type of wood. There may be more panel sizes as well.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Columbia-Forest-Products-1-4-in-x-2-ft-x-4-ft-PureBond-Maple-Plywood-Project-Panel-Free-Custom-Cut-Available-1789/203552993?MERCH=REC-_-fbr-_-202093790-_-2-_-n/a-_-n/a-_-n/a-_-n/a-_-n/a

Some notes about removing tape from patterns. Use a sharp pointed scratch awl to lift an edge up, then use tweezers or small needle point pliers to pull on the pattern/tape/shelf liner. Pull towards the center, if there are multiple points to lift, work on each appendige separately, stop at a common area until all appendiges have been lifted. Work from the most fragile to the tougher areas. Use a very sharp angle to pull across fragile areas about an inch above the piece of possible, minimize the lift stress on the piece. When I lifted the pattern with shelf liner from the dragon; I started with the tail, pulling the pattern to the body, then lifting the fingers and toes, then the wings from the bottom upwards, and finally peeling the pattern off the body. The tail is 14" long as cut and 1/8" wide at the thinnest. I cut 5 of these and didn't break any removing the pattern. This is my needle point awl, I got it in a knife set from HF.

Basswood