Wichman

Currently on the saw, and almost done, this is a combination of two patterns. The bear and mountains are from a pattern by Robb Barr with scroll saw adaptation by Patty Beach, the paw prints are from a different bear pattern by Patty Beach. 7/16" plywood plaque 9 layers thick. FD Polar #1 blades mostly.

Fidget birds, a new species. I like it

Welcome to the village from SE Idaho

Welcome to the village from SE Idaho. Hang in there, I started 40 years ago, before dirt was invented. You have resources available now that I only dreamed of. Steve Good has several YouTube videos showing beginning techniques: https://youtube.com/@sdgood?si=AgfPJJ4vDQdhsTXR

In my opinion the frame and Leppard piece just don't work together. It's similar to using a chrome frame on a Remington western. The contrast between the very nice and straight frame vs the live edge is just too jarring for me. If it were mine I would lightly trace the live edge and reduce the size all around the backer about 1/4". Then use a screw in sawtooth hanger. You can determine the weight center of the piece by gently holding it between your thumb and forefinger, slide the piece back and forth, you should feel when it's about centered.

Excellent grain match

Welcome to the village from SE Idaho

Yes, yes you can

What types of hole saws have you tried? carbon steel, carbide tooth, carbide grit, cobalt tooth, wingtip, carbide wingtip?

So, my Hegner purrs like a kitten with just a blade, but when cutting it can get some vibration, not enough to mess with the magnifier light attached to the saw. The saw was bolted to the floor with a foam floor mat for padding. A little aside. I'd have problems with my washing machine walking off the leveling block, a couple of years ago I used a worn out sanding sponge for a block and haven't had a problem since. Last night, because I had to move the saw anyway, I set each of the legs on their own pad. Much less vibration. The sanding blocks roughness keeps the blocks from walking on both the floor and the legs. Only time will tell if this is a long term fix, but I wanted to share the idea.

Have you checked the pivot points under the table? A message thread from just two year's ago: https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/48812-wen-broken-bearing/

I used a Google reverse image search ,

Here's your post from 2018. Hopefully this will jog your memory https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/27401-why-is-the-rum-always-gone/#comment-303552

I dislike modifying machine without a lot of studying and trepidation. That said, I have removed every blade guard on every scroll saw I've owned, they just get in the way and don't afford much protection. This is also the only tool that I've removed a blade guard from.

My condolences to your family

Very nice cutting. Here's my setup for blades for the Hegner. When I found that I needed the small blade holder, I ordered an extra set of standard holders, 2 sets of small, and 1 set of larger holders. Since I use the quick clamp, this let's me have 4 small blades, 4 medium, and 2 large ready to go. And any mix of those sizes. I have a small dry erase board with the sizes written on it for organizing the blades. This makes quick work of changing blades when they dull or changing types when necessary.

I'm welcome to the village from SE Idaho

If I were in your position I would purchase the following scroll saws for the classroom: Foot switch and magnifier with light. I might get some foot switches with Deadman switches and some with on/off switches for comparisons. Same for the magnifier lights, a 3X, a 5X, and a 10X , so the students will be able to compare. A 22"Hegner A 21" Pegas A 22" Bauer If you haven't exhausted your budget at this point, then I'd finish out with 14" single speed Hegner's. Some of this would depend on if you have a break between classes ( on the order of a couple of weeks, for maintenance ). And if you have a skilled maintenance person. The Hegner's only need oiling every 10 hrs of runtime, the Pegas and Bauer need the bearings lubed ever so often. The Hegner's have been around for 50 years and have a proven track record. While the Pegas hasn't been around as long their are still a solid company. The Bauer saw is brand new, but it looks like the Pegas parts are interchangeable. An example of why to have a 10X magnifier:

Your profile lists portrait style projects. For the 1/2" MDF, I would suggest a portrait with lots of open space, to take advantage of the walls that would show, rather than a pattern with lots of close together lines. A pattern from the village library to show the style I'm referring to, the white is what is saved:

Congratulations JT, there is an ignore setting and you're my first.

Which page? This one, or another page you wanted to link to? I've been having problems on FB with my local news, FB page loading, the page just sits there like it's trying to load. The rest of FB works just fine, so the problem may be a overload for a server somewhere.

When I bought my Chicago Electric, 12" sliding miter saw. With the various discounts I paid just over $100. It was for a specific project. Now, the silly thing won't die, and I'm glad. The new saws all have 1" arbor holes and all my blades are 5/8" (used, from work after the sharpening service determined the blades were worn out, also after the owner gave specific approval), the blades also fit my table saw. The saw stays in my shop and doesn't get beat up. If I was using it daily for my living and having to bounce it around in the back of a truck, I would definitely get a higher grade saw. But for me and my circumstances, it's a great saw.

Jerry, I use a hard rubber roller to press everything down; from the clear shelf liner, the pattern, and clear tape when needed. I bought mine at a thrift store but Amazon has them: https://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-71010-Handle-J-Roller-Rubber/dp/B00NFAOCVU/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?crid=2ZJ8D0381JOY4&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.z5mkOdfAWQLKEmA9mO45d1AGUJEXSFQ70UiZ6JIyDT1unyKkCA0tIwfLTcGAp5IEWtBublooQSe0WzlnO4-OJVEkFTcsW6FTPw_FhREM2U0xZA0-_Pqm-UflLcfl0OICsXNWRVeD7Phc4ixQL3om0TY8RmmHyzcQ2Nn8jH9-K4dUy6n2Jhve4Sf9EFw-H1pWXzjTiR8IWrq4_nAJFSWN8A.-Krxt8MamGhrSik2jeRDU8CyaICIMwcqPBWwoDdd0pI&dib_tag=se&keywords=hard+rubber+roller+tool+for+adhesive&qid=1738096242&sprefix=hard+rubber+roller+%2Caps%2C239&sr=8-13

Welcome to the village from SE Idaho

What kind of protection are you using now? In addition to the advice already given I would add, a good respirator with organic vapor cartridges. The OV cartridges will limit the exposure to sensitive agents, your body just gets overwhelmed. Another useful protection is a product called "gloves in a bottle". This is a hand and body, or arms in this case, that bonds with the skin and limits contact with the sawdust. A strategy to think about is to limit your exposure to several hours and then strip off your outwear into the washer and take a shower. Launder the outerwear before wearing again. The goal here is to think "how do I limit my exposure". The older we get the more we will find things our bodies just don't like. Being prepared for the next one will keep you more comfortable over the long run. And finally, a good ! Temporary ! Relief is calamine lotion. This is a poor replacement for good cleanliness practices ( showering off the irritant ) and protective measures, but to keep you from scratching yourself raw, it's pretty good.