Wichman
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Everything posted by Wichman
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IMHO it is not the thickness of the wood, it is, how tight a radius, are you trying to turn. Or, how small a kerf can you work with. I have cut 1 1/2" purple heart with a FD Polar #1 blade. I needed a very small kerf for a sliding dovetail the length of the piece.
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A business card holder. Pattern from Creative Woodworks and crafts August 2000. Designer, Floyd Jensen. 1/4" oak; blades, FD POLAR #1 for most of the cuts and FD new spiral for the veins in the neck area. Golden Oak stain. This was the first time cutting with the short stroke on the Hegner, just love the control with the short stroke. I've always had to cut a vein line with a flat blade first, then chase with a spiral, this time I could just cut with the spiral blade, didn't break as many blades either.
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Welcome to the village.
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Here is one, I searched "compound" in images. There are some patterns in the "ornaments for charity" pattern files.
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Are you looking for slot together patterns or compound cut patterns? Ornaments or something else?
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Also; reverse wound refers to the adhesive being on the inside of the backing when first opened, as opposed to being on the outside, which is common on the tape designed for a gun.
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This is atg "tape" (adhesive transfer gun). I've used this extensively at work, 25+ years. It's an adhesive put on a slick backing, when you press the adhesive down you then lift the backing leaving only the thin layer of adhesive. Most versions of the tape are designed to be used in a dispenser called a tape gun. Some versions are designed to be used without a gun. There are different levels of strength of adhesive; light, medium, high, and "oh my God, it's never going to move".
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1/2" tongue and groove overall size 15" x 22". Top section cut with FD Polar #1 followed by FD new spiral #2/0. Most other cuts with FD Polar #1. The horses were cut out and then the fretwork inside the figure cut. I shaded the horses and shilloett with charcoal pencils to make them stand out a little.
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I used Scotch tape instead of packing tape. The Scotch tape had more stretch. Lesson learned.
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I took a look at the manuals for both the Pegas and Bauer scroll saws. The Bauer manual states that the bearings are sealed and no lubrication is needed. The Pegas manual doesn't mention lubrication other than the guide rails. Both machines use the same type of bearings, although the manufacturers may be different. Neither machine uses sealed bearings and replacement bearings that I could find stated that they were pre-lubed with light oil.
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Scroll saw woodworking and crafts, fall 2020 issue 80, Keith Fenton is the designer. Also available @ https://sheilalandrydesigns.com/scroll-saw-patterns/filigree-owl-ornaments/
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I was cutting out these ornaments this evening, stack of 5, 1/8" basswood, when I noticed that the stack had shifted ever so slightly. When I tried to feed the blade through the next pilot hole I couldn't because of the shift. My pilot holes in this were #65, .035"; so I used a #71 drill bit, .025" to get the hole realigned, then used three #65 drill bits to keep the whole thing aligned while I used hot glue to hold the silly thing together while I finished cutting. Yea, it worked.
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I was cutting out these ornaments this evening, stack of 5, 1/8" basswood, when I noticed that the stack had shifted ever so slightly. When I tried to feed the blade through the next pilot hole I couldn't because of the shift. My pilot holes in this were #65, .035"; so I used a #71 drill bit, .025" to get the hole realigned, then used three #65 drill bits to keep the whole thing aligned while I used hot glue to hold the silly thing together while I finished cutting. Yea, it worked.
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Frank, when I am in the zone I can reduce the universe down to a 5" circle and let my CDO have full access.
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One technique to try is, during a cut, pause and let the wood "float", if you find the wood and blade move sideways, then you are putting side pressure while cutting. One thing to check on the Hegner is if the lower blade clamp is properly seated, I use my thumbnail to check.
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Oh, what a rabbit hole I remember the good old days when a Google search would get decent results, now it's a case of pick what feeds your own beliefs ( this applies to numerous genres ). While I was in college a new round of agricultural products came around with very dubious claims. My instructors put together a class on how to spot the BS adds. It's been 45 years, so my memory is a little fuzzy. I'll have to go refresh my memory and start a new thread in the Coffee House.
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Nice work. How did you cut the long piece? Spiral blades or?
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Rectangular hole saws: https://www.amazon.com/hylissus-Oscillating-Stainless-Electrical-Rectangle/dp/B0C6JY75SB/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=2W7JMAN6YDTWU&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.x3T3eQxPUgaQ_Ym3WmAbJ73sVoW8AzCQ90xL5j2iVed_YOYsDPhPIMM8sK1MIUyC1z5TqbU6wxL7k5Pg9IdXxprY2Qt3tVzKZL5MHBp1VrpnHPDg4cMA_buSWs1fRcujcl-bfZCHwKXOgPGj8DvoLSnbDGKVXNpSLJ1Cgi77v7Z9Gad301vTHwso9MqAt0Z2HQF9zC4JaR7C91xX_z4djg.S6b0ighdjgklYpBknc-5d-ILLNmFpwLIRx9DhsEltzw&dib_tag=se&keywords=oscillating+saw+outlet+cutter&qid=1732024176&sprefix=outlet+saw+%2Caps%2C260&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRm&psc=1
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You say that the motor was "hot", what do you mean? I had to look up what was too hot for bearings for motors at work, according to the information I could find, the upper limit was 140* F. I used a non-contact thermometer to read the temps. One machine had a single bearing that was hotter than any of the others, it ran at 95*, the rest ran at 85*. I kept track of the temps during the weekly maintenance. I used the powdered Teflon on that bearing and got a 5* drop in the temp.
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Welcome to the village. There are blade clamps available on Amazon that are bolt on replacements for the OEM, the ones I am referring to will accept both pinned and pinless blades. When using pinless a hex driver is required.
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This is a FB marketplace find, $8. I plan to use it for; a display, a drying rack, and a plant stand for my hanging baskets during the winter. A threefur!
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I have three foot pedals; a HF Model, an Olsen, and an expensive one from Advanced Machinery. I've never had to use anything with them, the factory surface works for me. That being said, I agree with Tom about the non slip pad. I keep a roll of NS shelf liner on hand, for many different applications. I've used the self liner underneath many machines, from 40 gal air compressors to a small machine for notching brass title plates, it has always worked like a charm. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
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Welcome to the village from Idaho Check out Steve Goods website. https://scrollsawworkshop.blogspot.com/?m=1 You can just browse the patterns for ideas and a glimpse of what you can do with a scroll saw. And, all his patterns are free.
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Just got a picture back from the recipient of these coasters (gift for a high school friend). 1/4" elm laminated to cork coasters, one coat BLO, #1 Polar blades for most of the cutting, #2/0 Polar blades for the man. Thin coaster is the drop out from the thick. ( I love twofers ).
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This is the oil I use. https://www.amazon.com/Supco-SUPCO-MO98-SPOUT-OILER/dp/B001UGQC2I/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_mod_primary_new?crid=3EFI5AD2MXHX&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.3aZErExeIozLC8VVBJKY43k-iyqEwumvBAIxpHiZvrsgfZR57s7a18CR4UYE5-r27vCAtqHaRoe6q1BbqIQUmXweDpL7LxOrXtiQyQaRD0KzMCl2EIs9eDMsc-A3WR0LcB1UqiCBYI76hD7rQXmeN1-mO7k6vPwsMsuV5mjay4kZX9_brdop8SJj7YSYZxG4JUyLl3InsSQUuuwpAIJ4Rg.fdB8Am-eGi2nlwja_2ff9hSUifwepl4a7h9WzKnVEB8&dib_tag=se&keywords=zoom+spout+oiler+turbine+oil+norvey&qid=1730659412&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=norvey+zoom+spout+oiler%2Caps%2C312&sr=8-1
