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Wichman

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Everything posted by Wichman

  1. In re; sinus/allergy issues. I feel your pain. I've had to start wearing a mask with OV cartridges to avoid issues. I have a 20" box fan to the side of the scroll saw with a 5" furnace filter and a 1" activated charcoal filter, I never shut the fan off, so it's constantly cleaning the air. I had to adjust my ear muffs so they didn't put as much pressure on my temples.
  2. I had the same type of vertigo. The test for it is very simple; sit on the edge of a bed, turn your head to one side, lay back quickly. Instant vertigo if this is the problem. Repeat for the other side. No vertigo? Then it's not this particular issue. Vertigo? Then some simple exercises to start, cured mine in under 2 weeks, your results may very.
  3. One additional correction; the design was cut by Janet, but designed by Lucille Crabtree. Janette stated that Lucille entrusted her pattern collection to her (Janette) so that it would continue to be available for years to come.
  4. Welcome to the village. What blades are you using? That edge is pretty chopped up. My first suggestion would be to get a sample pack of blades from the "big three"; Flying Dutchman, Pegasus, and Olsen. Try all the blades and see if there's one that just cuts well for you.
  5. Have you tried the File > open recent. Option? That will show the last file you worked on. If there is a file with the name already there then "save as" and add a 1 to the file name.
  6. I believe you are trying to save the file as a "Windows meta file", .wmf; inkscape will try to save as the last file type that was used. When you go to save the file, at the first screen go to the "save as type" box and select "inkscape SVG (*.svg) ". This should put you on the right path.
  7. This is heresy and I'll probably be boiled in oil,drawn and quartered, and the remains burned at the stake. I recently had some of my air dryed elm warp a little too much for a project. I took the pieces, sized for the project, into the shower. I rinsed the boards down with hot water and allowed the steam of the shower to soften the wood. I stacked the boards by size on a cinder block and then stacked three blocks on top. I let them dry for a week and a half. So far so good. It's been several weeks, and no return of the warp. Your results may vary.
  8. It just depends on how tight of turns the pattern has for the size of blade. Otherwise choose skip tooth or super skip type blades. Because you're not saving the outside of the blank, you don't need reverse teeth, and not having them will help clear the sawdust from the kerf. My favorite blade is the FD Polar series, I use mostly #1, even in 1 1/2" pine.
  9. I finally had a chance to play around with this. The video is pretty good, here's some additional information about adding thin lines and a contrasting fill. To add lines, aka "stroke"; hold down the shift key and select the line color, typically red. Using the " fill and stroke" dialogue box, change the stroke width to .005". This should create thin lines around the thick lines . Select the image and use the curser to select the contrasting color ( I use light green). You can use the "fill and stroke" dialogue box to make the contrasting color lighter. Note: selecting the color without the shift key changes the fill color; selecting the color with the shift key changes the stroke color.
  10. Delivered, a photo of the gift with the hillside of the project photo in the background.
  11. Since this type of pattern is for filling with epoxy the thick line are meant to be kept. I would much prefer to have two thin (.005") lines separated by a contrasting light fill.
  12. BBQ is auto correct for bb
  13. Allen, Don't stop. The only person you need to compare yourself to is you. I've been scrolling for nigh unto 40 years and I can't hold a candle to some of our members. As long as you like your projects and progress, that's all that matters.
  14. This is a gift for a good friend of mine. 1/8" BB for both layers. Bottom layer is a picture of the hill behind his Airbnb in Bulh Id with two kingfisher's ( his favorite bird ) on the rocks. Top layer is a pattern available in the library, artist is Grandpa. FD Polar #1 blades throughout. 11 x 14
  15. On blades that are hard to tell the top or bottom, some manufacturers will put a notch or other device at the top of the blade.
  16. Here is what I use; Top of washing machine Layer of Kraft paper 20"x25" furnace filter for the base 20" x 20" furnace filters for the sides and top Prescription fact sheets inside for disposability
  17. I dug out the cover that came with the magnifer that I bought with my Hegner, it looks like an old time shower cap. I looked up shower caps on Amazon, you can get a three pack for $3.50. Pretty cheap solution.
  18. Allen, one of the things I really like about the Hegner is the ability to have multiple blades ready to go, and they can be different sizes and types. I have an index card next to the saw with the type and size of the blades installed on the bottom clamps.
  19. Can you shift the type of projects that you make? Shelves or wall pockets, light switch or outlet covers (Steve Good has a very fancy Victorian pattern) items themed to your wife's interests. Make extra fancy designs so you slow down your production .
  20. So, what kind of projects do you make for her?
  21. Is there a good method of fixing a piece of delaminated plywood? The piece is a small plaque that has not been cut yet. Worth fixing or just toss?
  22. Welcome to the village. There's at least one opinion per scroll sawer. The drift is caused by the manufacturing process of stamped blades. My advice to you would be to get sample packs from several blade companies and choose the types that work best for you and your cutting style. My go to blade is the Flying Dutchman polar #1 for anything from 1/8 plywood to 1 1/2 hardwood. I'll go up in size when I have long gentle curves to cut.
  23. I was looking through the manual; on page 9 they address what the pin is for: when changing holes, you gently lift the arm until it clicks, when you want to lower the arm you pull the pin and carefully lower the arm until it clicks in the down position. I have to assume that failure to lock the arm in the down position will affect the blade tension.
  24. In addition to JT's comments, if you have an artificial tree you could use a single stem or the end of a stem to fake it being in a full tree. The upside down idea is intriguing.
  25. I would start with the easy things first. Check the brushes and armature. The brushes for wear and/or glazing. Check the armature for carbon buildup and/or not being " shiny ". If the armature looks damaged check for debris between the brass leads. If the brushes or armature have issues,it will affect the speed control.
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