Wichman

Scrollsaw Woodworking & Crafts Fall 2020 issue 80 has an article about this as does Creative Woodworks & Crafts Sept 2005 issue 110. It is not just famous people or celebrities each and every one of us owns the copyright to our own image, there are exceptions but if you're using it for a profitable venture then the person using the image needs permission or a release. My old boss, at the art publishing bushiness, used images of his friends ( with a heavy treatment, you could not make out who the picture came from ) and he had sign releases from the ones who agreed, they were kept in a file along with the books detailing where every single one of the signed and number prints had been sold. Does this mean you're going to be sued, or get a cease and desist letter, probably not, but the world is getting crazier every day. Last year I wrote a local animal park seeking permission to use my photo's in a commercial setting, they politely turned me down. And it was a featured issue on their website. And a co-worker had worked up a photo he had taken at a private Alaskan park and had to stop work on it because they refused to give permission for commercial work. Bosses treatment: https://www.wayfair.com/decor-pillows/pdp/alcott-hill-rocky-mountain-riding-in-color-by-mitchell-mansanarez-w005302807.html

Here are some more. Coins for scale

Hot off the saw. Tops ( or bottoms ) for hinges. Pattern from Steve Good, not altered for size. 1/4 wood. FD Polar #2/0 blade

$10,000 double chop saw ( x 2 one is 3 phase) $10,000 v-nailer ( x 2) $50,000 computerized mat cutter. Ain't cheap to get started anymore. You could probably get by with much less with a small custom shop, but I cut over a million mats with that mat cutter ( Gunnar 1001 ) somehow they managed to kill it a year after I left. To avoid a mess or taking time to walk to the trash can to throw away a blade (x-acto #13 size ), I set a 5 gallon bucket at the foot of my workstation for the mat cutter; I filled the bucket.

I worked in a commercial framing shop for 26 years. There are so many things that can go sideways in a miter joint. After being used to using very expensive commercial machines I have zero interest in trying to use DIY machines to make frames. Your frame looks very well made. Kudos.

What kind of floor is the bench sitting on? Is the bench firmly standing on the floor. i.e. no rocking of any kind? When I first set up my Hegner I had to move the stand around to find a non-bouncy floor, once I did that the vibration was minimal. Just a thought. Good Luck.

Welcome to the Village from SE Idaho. Are you still using the HF scroll saw? Pinned blades?

About the spice rack. The newer style spice containers, the round glass ones, do not fit in the spice rack by about 1/4". My fix is that I'm enlarging the pattern by 20% so that all the dimension will be larger and allow the containers to fit. 20% increases the slots to 5/16" so wood that I already have will work. Is this why so few people are not making "functional" items now? Ever changing "standard" sizes, who'd a thunk it. The other item I know changed sizes is the tissue box, On a recent trip to the store I noted 3 different depths of tissue boxes, yet all the patterns that I see only have one size.

I'm calling it done. Spice rack. 1/4" Elm throughout. FD Polar blades, #1 for most, #3 for the shelves (gentle curves). BLO for the finish. 4 hrs cutting. pattern from scrollsaw.com. 14 1/2 inches wide 13 1/2 inches tall.

This is a project I'm currently working on, a spice rack for the girlfriend. These are about 10" long, 1/4" Elm, the shelves were stacked 3 high, the ends 2 high, all cut with FD Polar #1 (just didn't want to change blades). They are not perfect, but will touch up pretty quick with the stationary belt sander. I will post pictures of the finished project as soon as I get it done.

With the HF ( or other small band saws ), remember that these are light duty tools. Yes the specs say that it will cut 3 5/8" ( a 2 x 4 on end ) but it will be slow, and you'd better have the right blade ( 1/4" or less and 3 to 4 tpi ). I was trying to cut 2" Elm and I kept stalling the motor; 1/2" Elm and it was fine ( I was ripping 6' live edge boards inteded for non scroll saw project wood ). Before I cut a single thing I went through the saw and adjusted everything to the specs in the manual. I also bought a couple of blades from other than HF sources. I have had the saw for about 5 years now, and although it doesn't get much use, it has stayed in adjustment the whole time.

I have the HF 9" saw and it's a little workhorse. But about your Craftsman 10". Have you tuned it up using the Snodgrass video? New blade? More about the HF saw in the next message.

This time the requested rose color was bright blue, I painted the leaves teal green. The Rose pattern is from Steve Good. The small butterfly shape is from an old Patrick Spielman book, "Scroll Saw Handbook with patterns" and the small heart I found in the font "webdings" (Capital Y ) The letter font is Z003 with the "outline font effect" turned on. The wood is 3/4" Poplar, FD Polar #! blades throughout, Two coats of shellac after painting.

Frank Ev did indeed upload a similar pattern. Search for "two heads" (include the quotation marks). and it will be second or third in a short list. He published this circa Oct 2021.

Thurman, If you expand the bottom picture it gives the size; 11 inches tall, 5.1 inches wide, and is listed as 2 inches thick (thickness is probably because it's multiple items)

I just checked the FB account. The gentleman is having FB issues, surprise, no surprise. The original page "A saw subject" is still up. the new one with the brand name has been taken down by FB ( he is not Hegner, so it violates the "rules" ).

A couple of options to think about. #1. micro bit plus a spiral blade, use the spiral blades to ease the shoulders for a smooth line #2 micro bit, drill two or three holes in line with the pattern, creating a slot to feed the blade through. Difficult to line up but doable. With the Hegner and the slot in the table, you can put the blade in the wood before you put the blade in the saw. Takes a little wrangling and practice but again, doable.

For Christmas I made one of my grandsons a "soccer" plaque with shaker pegs. The daughter asked me to make the granddaughter something similar with a cheerleader motif. Here's what I came up with. Top layer 1/2" Baltic for all the inside cuts, FD Polar #1 blades throughout the interior cuts. 1/2" Baltic laminated to the top with polyurethane glue. All outside cuts made with FD #3 Polar blades. Name painted white and then with glow in the dark paint, for the cool factor. Steve Good pattern modified with the name and the shaker pegs. Mounting holes hidden under the lower team logos. The cheer team.

Been thinking about this one. 1/8 hardboard backer just over the size of the plaque, this will present some issues because that's larger then the throat of the saw, I can cut half from each direction though. I was thinking of painter the backer the colors of the Idaho License Plat; Red on top, a band of white in the middle, and blue on the bottom. If I use the tractor cut outs as plugs, I can use countersunk screws to mount the piece and eliminate tipping (the piece is out of balance. I'm thinking of adding shaker pegs on each end to make the piece more functional.

Did you get the fill and stroke issues resolved?

I haven't decided on a backer yet. The piece is prefinished with a cream paint ( that was part of the test, paint stayed put and did not splinter at all ) The plaque is really off balance, the knots are much heavier than the rest of the wood. I'm thinking of using a couple of small screws and a cord, maybe shifting the attachment points towards the weighted side.

Just finished this one. Idaho plaque, pattern by BoB scroll . Wood is a repurposed plaque ( 6" X 23" ) from a thrift store, 3/4 pine; blades FD Polar #1 throughout. Second Picture is the piece on the saw with a " 1 2 3 block" as a counterweight, nonslip pad underneath. Started cutting in the center to reduce the weight when I got to the ends.

I'm surprised no one caught this: The thrust of my argument was about leverage. But if you look at spiral blades the argument works the other way around. If you primarily use spiral blades then the sideways leverage is the other way around. 2 to 3 inches on the rear mounted motors vs 16" (or more) on the front motor. So it really depends on your style of cutting or your preference of blade type.

Jimmy, In regards to cutting time; while it is variable, my speed is usually around 30 seconds an inch. If you can navigate Inkscape there is a way to have the program measure how many inches of lines there are in a pattern, then it's just math. Inkscape shows that this pattern ( the one page version ) has 321.9 inches of lines. So 321.9 x 30 = 9657 seconds 9657 / 60 = 160.95 minutes 160.95 / 60 = 2.6825 so I would guesstimate 3 hrs for this project. But that is me with a Hegner and 39 yrs experience. The Hegner VS ranges between 350 and 1750 spm, I usually have it set at about 1400. I started keeping track of the metrics ( how fast I cut ) so I could give a real world estimate of how much a project would cost a customer to make. I'm not trying to set speed records, and at this point in your journey, neither should you. Practice on getting great quality cuttings, and you are, the speed will come with more experience.

I'll be taking a break from the village. Pattern making is such a PIA and to have multiple users misunderstand what I ask about is extremely frustrating, and I don't handle frustration well. Getting private messages "helping" with issues outside the questions I'm asking is annoying as well, I know you think you are helping, but you are not. TTFN